Sputtering and popping issues

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Nelson7604

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I have a 63 Dart with a 225 slant six. Car was on non op since 2007. Did a tune up and oil change, took carb apart and cleaned up and it ran like a champ. All of a sudden it developed a sputtering problem and pops out the carb. Car wont accelerate and dies when stopping at an intersection. We put a new fuel filter on and cut the old one open and there was NO debris in the filter. Getting 4 lbs fuel pressure while cranking. Runs fine one time and then all of a sudden it starts all over. Happens when cold or hot. Timing set at 2 degees BTDC per Chiltons Manual. Mixture screw at one turn out.

Help, any suggestions?
 
Popping back out of the carb usually indicates mistimed firing or stuck valves; the stumbling could be a very lean or rich condition, or ignition misfiring. Perhaps a few more checks, info, and symptoms would help the diagnosis.
- Did you clean out the fuel tank or just put new gas in?
- When it acts up, shut it off, and immediately pull the air cleaner and see if there is fuel dripping down inside the throat of the carb. If so, you may have some crud in the needled and seat. (But the clean gas filter would not support that.)
- Did you adjust the points gap? That would be a #1 suspect.
- Pull the valve cover and see if there is gunk under the cover. Adjust the valves while you are there. Let us know if you need the procedure.
- What you have could be sticking valves with the car that old. You can remove valve springs and work some carb cleaner down the guides one at a time when each piston is near the top of the travel. Dunno your mechnical background so that may be reasonable or not. The quick alternative that might help a sticky valve is to slowly dribble 1/2 can of Rislone or Seafoam down the carb while keeping it revved up with the other hand. The put the other 1/2 can in the crankcase.
- How many miles on the engine?
 
To me, that sounds like water in the gas.Just a little bit.Every now and then a bit gets sucked up, and then the engine cant idle on it. At speed it may go through with just coughing,sputtering,or popping.Then its business as usual, until the next slug comes up. You could try some product in the fuel tank which promotes sticksion between the water and the fuel;namely, Isopropyl alcohol.
-The best way I know of to prove it is to pop the top of the carb, exactly when it happens and check the bowl.Fuel and water dont mix. You will clearly see the water as a slug at the bottom under the fuel.The alcohol may do the trick though and save you a bit of trouble. Its not instant though.Read the directions and maybe double the dose.Too much cant hurt at lower throttle/load settings.
-There is another way.But you have to have experienced it to understand what youre seeing. When a mixture of gas and water comes out the main nozzle on a running engine,and hits the butterfly, it doesnt look normal. The water beads up and kinda rolls off the plate into the intake. The beads are bigger than the atomized fuel, and roll slower, tending to stick to the plate longer than the fuel.If youve seen it once youll never forget it.
-Another proof can be seen this way. Take a strong,absorbent,paper towel. Rip a strip off it just narrow enough to pass under the main nozzle, but as large as possible, and long enough to be easily retrieved. Try to lay it flat on the butterfly. Then with engine off, slowly pump the accelerator pump a time or two onto the towel. Wait a minute or two and then retrieve it. The fuel will either pass through the towel or flash very quickly, leaving the water behind, which gets trapped in the towel, and evaporates much more slowly. This method probably wont work on the 2bbls with their tiny venturies, but may on the big 1bbl.
-The accelerator pump and the MJ wells are the lowest points in the bowl and water will accumulate there.If the water passes through the MJ wells at speed with just coughing/popping, but then continues to run, and the water has accumulated in the pump well, then driveaway from the next stop will be very difficult, and the engine will likely stall. But then, since the water has already passed through the MJ well, the engine will easily restart and idle. The proof for this is with the engine stalled, pump the accelerator several times to push the water out and refill it with fuel. The engine may be flooded so expect to start it accordingly. Once running it will driveaway as normal.
-Of course the other mentioned possibilities in this thread are perfectly valid as well. Its just that Isopropyl could be the cheap, easy fix.Happy hunting.
 
sounds like the float / needle is sticking and causing it to flood. just because you don't see fuel dripping doesn't mean its not flooding. the needle could be hanging up.
 
Tyler posted this for me. He works full time and goes to school full time as well. Don't get to see him much these days.

We ended up putting in a pertronix electronic ignition in and seems to be just fine now. Still a bit confused if I need the resistor. New Pertronix coil says no, Read other threads and the info is a bit confusing.

Thanx to all the replied!

Jim
 
Resistor or not, depends on the coil, not the ignition system/type.

There are 8v coils, and, 12v coils. 8v coils need the Ballast resistor, 12v doesn't.....
 
The 3 ohm Pertronix coils typically don't need a ballast, the 1.5 ohm coils do need a ballast. For this app, not just any ballast is correct; try a BWD RU19 or OEM/NOS.
 
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