Stahl issues: Carb or Timing?

-
ClarkDart70

ClarkDart70

Street Machines Limited
Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
317
Reaction score
2
Location
Plainfield, IN
Ok, so I've had a few recent threads about my recent issues with my 318. Up to this point, I have had the carb rebuilt, replaced the coil, and upgraded the points to a Pertronix kit.
I have had a few issues up to this point:
1) The timing was 10* retarded and it was hard to start and missed under hard acceleration.
Action: Adjusted timing to 5* advanced.
2) Fixed the timing, and then it would start great and run great until warm and then the idle would drop and stahl out.
Action: Adjusted fuel mixture screws to raise curb idle.
and now....
3) Car starts awesome, runs great, until its warm and then it will stahl out when driving while pulling up to a stop sign or into a parking spot. It has left me setting 3 times just in one trip today.

With this being said, does it appear to be more of a timing issue, carb setting issue, or idle issue?

My choke seems to be working fine as the butterfly opens normally as it warms up.

Clark
 
Well first off, the mixture screws are mixture screws, not idle screws. Although, adjusting them to acheive highest idle usually does result in the correct setting. That said, it's really difficult to diagnose stuff like this online. Maybe you could find a fellow FABO member that's good at it and get together with them? Buy um a beer or dinner.
 
ClarkDart70 said:
Ok, so I've had a few recent threads about my recent issues with my 318. Up to this point, I have had the carb rebuilt, replaced the coil, and upgraded the points to a Pertronix kit.
I have had a few issues up to this point:
1) The timing was 10* retarded and it was hard to start and missed under hard acceleration.
Action: Adjusted timing to 5* advanced.
2) Fixed the timing, and then it would start great and run great until warm and then the idle would drop and stahl out.
Action: Adjusted fuel mixture screws to raise curb idle.
and now....
3) Car starts awesome, runs great, until its warm and then it will stahl out when driving while pulling up to a stop sign or into a parking spot. It has left me setting 3 times just in one trip today.

With this being said, does it appear to be more of a timing issue, carb setting issue, or idle issue?

My choke seems to be working fine as the butterfly opens normally as it warms up.

Clark
Click to expand...

Stock engine and carb or aftermarket stuff?

My 318 has a cam in it and an eddy carb.....

I ended up with 17* advance at idle and 54* (pretty sure thats what it is) all in with the vac advance.....

I still had some stall issues...found that replacing the standard stall convertor with a TCI Breakaway (2400 rpm stall) helped a LOT. The rest is adjusting the idle speed screw JUST ENOUGH to keep it idling high enough to not die out....

If your car is all stock, seems like trying the timing higher could help.
 
Try to get a vacuum gauge and tune your idle mixture to give highest vacuum, then turn the screws in (leaner) a 1/4-turn or so. You may have an overly rich idle that works when the engine is cold but gives too much fuel when warmed up. Also check to make sure your floats are set properly, if they're too high you can get fuel overflowing out the boosters and bogging your engine/stalling out when you hit the brakes or turn...
 
Its all stock. It does only stall out when hitting brakes and rounding a turn. I'll have to check that out.
 
15 initial 36 total Max 38 any more then that you causing damage. Do you know that before top dead center is the plug firing before the piston reaches the top on firing stroke. If you install a bigger cam do not use the vacuum advance. Here is the cheap way to get it close enough for a driver. Take the distributor apart .Weld the advance slots shut toward the insde or the shaft this to achieve proper rpm total. They are .470 factory close them up and file them open to .370 Take out the big spring on one weight and leave the small one on the other . this is the same as two Mopar Light springs. Now when your initial is at 15 your total should be 35. This gives you 20 retard for start up from 35 total. A motor will run is best a 35 -38 at all times. It just needs the 20 retard to start. MSD digital 6 has this built in so you can lock your distributor at 35-38. Before these new digital ign. You would have your coil hooked to a toggle and turn it on after the starter was ingaged. This would allow the motor to start spinning to eliminate cyl. kick back. The 69 that just left here just had it done the car was like night and day. If you are running a factory cam and all pretaining factory parts and you want economy leave the advance in place. This is for cars with engine mods done. But rember a 4bbl is a 8.5 advance and a 2bbl is an 11.0 its stamped in the arm.
 
Ok, just tearing into this. I've been scrubbing Google for float settings and I can't find any specs outside of a carter carb on a Jeep CJ.
What is a good measurement for float height?
Also, any chance my coil could be causing this issue?

Its really weird that the only time this happens is when I am slowing into a turn. While drifting after the stall I can put it in neutral and it will start back up.
 
What carburetor do you have on it? You need to know the manufacturer and the model number stamped on the baseplate or body and you can get the float settings. Sounds like a float issue. FOr what you have, the rest of it is close or fine as it is.
 
Its the 2 barrel Carter... right now its set 1/4" when fully up. I'll have to get the numbers off of it.
 
The model number will be stamped into it... I dont know enough about the 2bbl numbers but four barrels are something like "4015S" or "4407SA".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top