Stainless steel line over tubing

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38 Dodge

38 Dodge

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I'm in the process of converting my 62 Wagon from a one reservoir master cyclinder to a two reservoir master cyclinder and I will be changing all the lines as well so the question is the speed shop is telling me that everyone is converting over the the stainless steel soft lines (which really look cool and the price is not that much different) and not the tubing but I would think that would cause an issue with flexing and braking coming off the master cyclinder. What do you all think and which way should I go.
Thanks
 
They say convert it all to steel braided line? Like no hardline at all? Or are they saying just from the master to the combination valve in case you have to move the master to get a valve cover off?
 
Your brakes will probably be mushy if you plumbed the whole system with braided line due to the lines swelling under pressure.
 
they say due a complete swap, But Im thinking like daliant that the brakes will be mushy. I'm not thinking I should do a complete swap, but what about the lines coming off the master cyclinder to the diverter valve?
 
Ive seen a lot of people go to the hard stainless lines, are you sure that isn't what they meant?
 
Stainless hard lines are the best, certainly not the cheapest tho
 
38 Dodge said:
they say due a complete swap, But Im thinking like daliant that the brakes will be mushy. I'm not thinking I should do a complete swap, but what about the lines coming off the master cyclinder to the diverter valve?
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Yes, you can do braided line from the master to your combination valve. There is a difference between the braided line used for fuel systems and that that is used for brake systems. Lines for brake systems are made of TFE. It is a braided line with a Teflon core. It will withstand much higher heat and pressure without distortion. Which makes it an upgrade from standard rubber reinforced flexible brake hoses that came standard on our cars.

Technically speaking, you could use it for your entire brake system, but why? Laziness would be my only answer. It's not cost effective, it would cost more per foot than stainless hardline. It can't be weight savings, because it weighs more per foot than stainless hardline. Not to mention you would probably have to use three times as many clamps to keep it in place. So, I'm guessing your "Speed Shop" can't figure out how, or it's too complicated, or takes to much time to properly bend or flare a hardline.

Find a new "Speed Shop".
 
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