Stalling when warm issue

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Confusedcuda

Confusedcuda

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Okay guys', what do you think? I have a 67 Barracuda with a 340. (I have previous posts on subject) When I drive may car, It does great on hiway and around town when it first starts. When I go through some traffic and after it is driven a little and warmed up, it wants to stall at lights or stop signs,etc. So at first I thought Vapor lock(I have a 650 Eddie Thunder and Eddie RPM Mani)my only temp. gauge was my stock one, so the 1st thing I did was install a after market temp. gauge. I also bought a carb spacer and a new see through filter and fuel press. gauge. I installed the filter and pressure gauge and the temp. gauge. My car never went over 180 degrees, so I did not install the spacer. I then put a rebuild kit on the carb and installed a new fuel pump and new fuel lines from carb to fuel pump, blew out my fuel line from fuel pump to tank, took out my fuel sending unit(which is only about 4 years old) it looked great and looked in my tank, which also looked fine. I put in a hose from my hand pump and layed in bottom of tank and took out about a 1/4 gallon of fuel (looking for rust or debris) and it looked fine. After I have driven for a bit I noticed my fuel pressure is nothing, I also noticed that my fuel filter, is almost empty of fuel. When the car first starts up, it has 7+ lbs. of pressure, and filter is full. Also, I just started to notice a little color in the fuel that sits in the fuel filter a couple of days. When you start it up it goes away. So what do you think, should I install the carb spacer even though my engine temp is always 180 or less. I don't understand, why it only acts up when it is warm and going through lights or traffic, and drives great any other time. I know some have brought up the vapor returns, please explain. Any help is appreciated, Thanks!
 
You mention discoloration in the filter. Are you getting gas in your oil by any chance. I assume you have a mechanical fuel pump, if so have you checked it?
 
Could be fuel percolation in the carb when the engine gets to norm. op. temp.Eddy carbs are prone to this. Doesn't really matter what your temp guage says, feel the base of the carb when the engine's warmed-up. If you can't keep your hand on it, then it's too hot. Try the spacer and see if that helps keep the carb base cool. You can also block the exhaust X-over passage that runs under the carb base to stop the over-heatting of the carb.
 
Mech. or Elect. pump ?

I had same problem with an Elect. pump.
Ended up being a ground issue
Pump would heat up and stop pumping fuel, never did get it to work right, went to mech. pump and no more problems
 
Mech. fuel pump. when I changed the fuel pump, I noticed some sludgey, oily stuff, where the fuel pump goes into the block.
 
No gas in oil, oil in gas? I am just stumped....Car runs great, when on the hiway, no problems, sit at a couple lights once it is warm, then it wants to fall on its ***. May be I should go with the elec. fuel pump. Man I hate that noise..
 
Check your flexable fuel line once the car is warmed up. It may be getting a little soft and kinking thereby restricting the fuel flow.

Jack
 
Mine too has a Eddie carb and intake but with electric fuel pump and dies at stop signs and lights once warm. Up until then it runs great, runs good at anything above idle. Last night it was dying even idled up high.
 
You know, the rubber fuel line from my steel line at the back of fire wall to my fuel pump is a little old, and a little soft, I think I will change this one today. Thanks any others? :violent1:
 
does it have adjustable valves? them little thingies under the valve covers? if so check the adjustment being a 67 it may have a solid lifter cam, I could be way off base but this is a common problem when valves are adjusted too tight, I have bought several cars with this problem and fixed it after seeing the symptoms time and time again and going thru everything only to find the valves were adjusted too tight, or after the heads had a valve job and were not done properly requiring shims for the rocker shafts or adjustable rocker arms in severe cases
 
Interesting Waggin, I swapped out the solid 273 and it has a 340 now. I had a valve job done before I put in the 340... It's all hyd. now
 
when it dies immediately take fuel cap off and see if it has a vaccum on it, if so you have a vent stopped up. Also like mentioned the rubber lines may be soft and closing up ,Joe
 
I did the gas cap trick and it worked like a charm. I believe I'm going to go to a vented cap. I don't like the idea of the tank vent that comes out by my headers.
 
Okay today replaced the rubber fuel line from the steel line at fire wall to fuel pump. Still did its usual died once it heated up, I think my next jobs will be remove the steel line from the car, and blow it out or replace it and install the spacer at the carb. I let the car idle in drive for a while, even though temp. gauge never went past 200, once I turned it off, I could only touch the base of the carb for about a second or so. Still the question remains, once it cools down and I start the car it has great fuel pressure, once I pull into the drive, after it has been driving awhile, no fuel pressure and it wants to die..... I am all into the perculation idea, but why do I have little or no fuel pressure when it warms up?
 
Eddie/carter carbs have heat issues, they make pans out of aluminum because it conducts heat so well. I would try a phenolic/plastic/wood spacer, even a 1/4 inch one. If they boil the gas in the carb, your getting a very lean A/F as there are bubbles in the gas or the fuel level is too low. Pumps suck, so you could be collapsing the rubber line but you already changed it. Run the car with the cap off see if there is any difference. The vent tube comes off the filler neck under the trunk I believe. No fuel pressure (edels only take 4-5 PSI, 7 is too much) Do you have electronic ignition, check reluctor gap hot, should still be .008-.010. Fuel pumps work on check valves. If you have a round carter, you can take it apart and check the valves. Your eccentric/arm could be shot too. you can run a non gerotor (carter) electric through your mechanical with no issues, works great on cold starts, and the mech pump can even pull through it when its off. I would replace the fuel pump or at least pull it and check it. Imboss trying to think where the AVS fuel bowl is vented to atmosphere. That round boss on top is a bowl vent that is not drilled. wonder is a small hole there would alleviate any pressure in there, but that would show on the fuel pressure guage...just thinking out loud..pumps are cheap, even cheap ones work.
 
red67gts said:
when it dies immediately take fuel cap off and see if it has a vaccum on it, if so you have a vent stopped up. Also like mentioned the rubber lines may be soft and closing up ,Joe
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i agree take the fuel cap off and see if the pressure returns. i the tank is having problems venting the fuel pressure will go away.after it sits over night the tank vacume goes away and your good again. i say your looking in the right direction there should still should be fuel pressure even if the carb is vapor locking. also check fuel lines before the pump. check that they are not getting heated up from exhaust. if it vapor locks before the pump you wont have fuel pressure either.
 
try making or buying some shims for the rocker arms and try it,you will see when the rockers are off that one of the holdown bolts feeds oil to the rockers,make sure to slot out the shim so oil can still flow. seen many go thru whole ignition and fuel systems only to find valves were to tight and got worse when the engine warmed up as the metal expanded it ran worse....just sayin..........
Confusedcuda said:
Thanks to all, I will be in touch tomm.
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So this could be a problem even if I don't have the adjustable valve train anymore?
 
Had to work late, won't get anything done tonight, see thru filter has that dis-colorization again. Any ideas?
 
Okay here is what I did today. First, I took that steel mandrel s shaped line that goes from my fuel pump to carb and blew it out and checked it. It seem to flow just fine. I then opened my gas cap and started my car, I let it heat up and took it around the block. When I started the car I had the usual 6to7 pounds of pressure. While it was warm, I checked my steel fuel line under the car, the only place it comes close to the exhaust is right around the collector, even at warm up, the line felt fine, not hot at all. I also noticed that as my car approached 180 or so degrees, the fuel pressure started to drop, I went around the block again and checked the pressure and I had none. Car was still ideling, so I looked at my see thru fuel filter and it was still full. Usually, at this time you can see hardley any gas in the filter(still had fuel cap open). I tried moving back and forth a couple times and then the car died. So, what I am wondering is, does having the fuel cap off, help keep the filter full and is it possible that if the fuel is perculating in the carb, can that cause low to no fuel pressure? I am running out of ideas. Thanks
 
when car died did you notice if filter was still full at that point? With the cap off it would not pull a vacuum but pressure should not drop either. With gauge before carb it doesn't look like if fuel were perculating that pressure would drop to zero. Did you say filter on pickup was not clogging? If all that is good and rubber lines between pump and tank are not collapsing then I am out of ideas for now. Hope you find it soon
 
Yes, I took the sending unit out and it looked fine. When I shut the car off, the filter was full. In the past, you could actually watch it slowly run out in the filter and then the car would start to peter out. So perculating is probaly not causing the fuel pressure to drop. Maybe I should just start with an elec. fuel pump. I have a 1/2'' spacer, should I not even bother? Thanks
 
Here is another thing to check. After the car dies, take the air filter cover off and work the throttle. See if the accelerator pump is pumping any fuel. If it is, then you don't have a fuel problem. It very well may be a bad coil. Sometimes they are hard to pin down and only show up when they get hot.

Jack
 
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