Starter and Z-bar Binding! pics

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dust

dust

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My Z-bar is binding against the Magnum starter on my 360 Duster.

It looks like it is because I am using a Magnum starter, anybody have a 4spd and Magnum starter? I have not heard of this problem before… :confused: To grind down the ear on the starter, I'd have to got down to almost the threads.

‘May also have something to do with my modified /6 Z-bar. I no longer have the original starter to compare. This Z-bar did work when I had the original starter in.

IMG_1789sm.jpg



IMG_1795sm.jpg
 
I modifed a \6 z-bar for my 360 in a 68 Barracuda and the arm is no where near the starter, at least an 1" away. When you shorten the z-bar all of the extra length should be cut off the engine side. Also, do you have the clip locating the z-bar on the frame side? The clip will keep the end of the bar near the frame and prevents it from moving toward the engine.
 
I have found another person with a V8 Z-bar that had the same problem; he installed a hydraulic system instead.

I’d rather not do that…
 
I adjusted the linkage geometry. Works fine now, thanks for the recommendations
 
DUST

I was just going to suggest doing just that. I had the very same issue on my Dart. My TTI's were so close that moving that direction was no option. So I play around with the z bar engine side mounting post bolts and cocked the bar a litlle to one side and everything worked. Close no doubt, but still cleared.
 
416stroker said:
DUST

I was just going to suggest doing just that. I had the very same issue on my Dart. My TTI's were so close that moving that direction was no option. So I play around with the z bar engine side mounting post bolts and cocked the bar a litlle to one side and everything worked. Close no doubt, but still cleared.
Click to expand...
Did you convert from auto too? Does the Z-bar seem straighter now? Mine does.

I wonder if the factory was just a little off drilling the hole?
 
I have a 67 dart gt with a 318 sitting on a 73 crossmember. I have a cast case overdrive 4 speed from an a body. The z bar i have looks just like every z bar i see on ebay for an a body. I am having to take about an inch or more off of the z bar for it to fit. I took the engine z-bar mount and cut the extension of from it. And took the z bar length down almost to the clutch arm on the bar. Is this normal I can see no other reason for this to be such an issue unless a i have the wrong z bar or it has something to do with the 73 crossmember. I know the angle is changed because of the late model bell housing and i am working with that but its still alot shorter. And one last thought my dad seems to think that my hurst shifter is supposed to have a set of bushings in it were the shift arms connect from to the shift rods at the base of the shifter. I ahve found these are available but can find no mention of them in any mopar specific info i have found. Thanks guys.
 
It's my understanding that Hurst supplied just the shifters. The linkage rods and arms were from Chrysler. The Chrysler arms don't use bushings. If you have an aftermarket Hurst shifter, complete with linkage, it will use the bushings.

:burnout:
 
Well im done. I had to redrill the trans ball stud mount. the slotted hole on the bottom was slotted about one half inch. The top whole was re drilled 1/2 inch up and about 3/8 back. The z bar was cut to be 6 and 7/8 inches long. total of almost 3/4 of an inch taken off from it. The Reverse shift rod worked and the 1-2 shift rod hit the crossmember so it was adjusted slightly. The 3/4 gear was lenthened one inch but mostly retained factory bends. I hooked a heavy spring to the clutch fork and then back by the starter The shifter had very loose fit on the shift rods so my dad made bushings for them and that snugged them right up. install is done.
 
C'mon! It's been over 5 minutes since you finished it! How's she run? You can't tell me you haven't gone out & smoked 'em already! :blob6:


:burnout:
 
I havent actually its still on the lift theres a broken wire on the alternator and we had a nasty ice storm come through last night. Im actually kinda depressed this car should be pretty quick i have a pretty nicley matched cam and dual plan intake with an edlebrock carb on it. Msd ignition with a new electronic mp distributor. This car has been mine for 7 years since i bought it for 1200 when i was 15 years old in 99. but it runs great and sounds mean as hell. All gears work and i wish i could go jam some gears but i have to head back to va from nh today. I will get some pics posted up when i get home as i took plenty of pics.
 
this car had a 904 and a 7 1/4 rear end. I put a 727 presumably small u joint end on my stock driveshaft and the length was perfect. I assumed i would have to cut the driveshaft or something but for those wondering it was really easy.
 
i drove it outside tonight not much to note seeing as how the ground is totally frozen. I grabbed second hard and fast spinning the rear tires and it went in smooth. Im going to keep this thing. I tried driving this car with the auto in it but the converter had to low of a stall. I need to lean out the primaries and richen the secondarys. But it was snotty i launched it pretty good outta the garage and she is definately a mover.
 
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