I think I have a faulty starter relay (hopefully). Starting there and working my way down to the solenoid. 68 Barracuda will intermittently not turn over the starter whatsoever. Other times fires right up. Battery and voltage are good. My question is I have seen a couple variations of starter relays. Some with three, four and five terminals. Does it matter which one I choose to see if replacing my current one works to solve the issue? Let me know if you need any additional info to narrow down an option. Really hoping it is not some other electrical gremlin since the previous owner had this thing wired like a rat's nest.
Starter Relay
- Thread starter Mcfarlrm
- Start date
-
Post a photo of your now.
Also have you tried moving the shifter when trying to crank?
Could be a misaligned shifter linkage lockouting out the starter relay.
Most likely you need a standard relay unless someone has messed with the wiring.
Green dot bypasses the NSS
Red dot is the standard relay that uses the NSS.
Also have you tried moving the shifter when trying to crank?
Could be a misaligned shifter linkage lockouting out the starter relay.
Most likely you need a standard relay unless someone has messed with the wiring.
Green dot bypasses the NSS
Red dot is the standard relay that uses the NSS.
I would be suspect of this connector.
Also be sure the relay is well grounded.
The soldered tab grounds that lead to the body of the relay and that then grounds to the body
Start at rock auto.
Then find the part number you want and go from there. Most likely local parts store has one or can get one
Also be sure the relay is well grounded.
The soldered tab grounds that lead to the body of the relay and that then grounds to the body
Start at rock auto.
Then find the part number you want and go from there. Most likely local parts store has one or can get one
Last edited:
Just so happens that was the wire I was messing with a bit. Wiggled it a bit and it started. Disconnected it completely, no turn over. Plugged it back in, turned over. Repeated that process a few times. A majority of the time it would not turn over after being plugged back in. I'll get a better connection and see if that helps.
BTW you can buy this relay and make a jumper to ground if you can't find the other type.
O'Riley auto
ESP47
Well-Known Member
If I was troubleshooting that picture, I'd do it like this:
I'd check the ohms from the soldered blank tab of the relay to the negative battery terminal. Low ohms means you have a good ground.
Switch your meter to DC volts and check and make sure there is a constant 12v on the big starter relay terminal that has the two wires on it.
I'd have a friend turn the key to start and I'd place my volt meter lead on the exposed wire that is pulling out of that connector. Should see 12v there because that is the start wire from your ignition switch.
Then with the key still turned to start, I'd place my lead on the tab of the starter relay that the bad connector is on and I'd make sure my lead was only touching the tab itself. You'll probably see 0v there because the power isn't making it from the wire to the tab, due to the bad connection.
Lets say there is 12v there but the engine still doesn't turn over. Now place your test lead on the hex screw with the key still turned to start. You should see 12v there because that wire runs down to the starter. If there is 0v there, then your starter relay is bad. That hex head should have 0v on it at all times unless the key is turned to start. Then and only then will it have 12v.
I'd check the ohms from the soldered blank tab of the relay to the negative battery terminal. Low ohms means you have a good ground.
Switch your meter to DC volts and check and make sure there is a constant 12v on the big starter relay terminal that has the two wires on it.
I'd have a friend turn the key to start and I'd place my volt meter lead on the exposed wire that is pulling out of that connector. Should see 12v there because that is the start wire from your ignition switch.
Then with the key still turned to start, I'd place my lead on the tab of the starter relay that the bad connector is on and I'd make sure my lead was only touching the tab itself. You'll probably see 0v there because the power isn't making it from the wire to the tab, due to the bad connection.
Lets say there is 12v there but the engine still doesn't turn over. Now place your test lead on the hex screw with the key still turned to start. You should see 12v there because that wire runs down to the starter. If there is 0v there, then your starter relay is bad. That hex head should have 0v on it at all times unless the key is turned to start. Then and only then will it have 12v.
Having my local guy test today or tomorrow. Unfortunately I do not have a meter currently. So what's the different between four vs three terminal option? I do have an automatic transmission and was told that it would determine what I would need if I do need to replace it.
The normal 67 thru 70 something.
Used a switch in the automatic to make a path to ground when the trans is in neutral or park.
That wire runs to the 4th terminal on the relay.
On the bypassed relay the same terminal is soldered to the housing of the relay always providing a ground path regardless of what gear the trans is in.
Your wiring does not have a 4th wire for the ground side of the NSS
Depending on what was done to your wiring you might be able to start your car in gear so be carefull
Last edited:
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You SHOULD HAVE (must have)
1....A factory shop manual and or wiring diagram
2....A multimeter, and in this day and age, NO excuse, ZERO
3...A 12V test lamp, and I like incandescant rather than LED
4...At least a couple of alligator clip jumper leads
=========================
3 terminal relays: Stick shift before 70
4 terminal relays: Automatic all years, and stick shift after 70
==========================
The huge nut terminal is a junction/ power terminal and one contact
The big "square" looking screw terminal is the other contact and has a rather large wire going to the starter solenoid
The flat spade flag terminal is the trigger wire from the key in "start" usually yellow.
The three terminal relays MUST be grounded as the coil ground goes to the case
The second flat spade on the 4 wire relays is the ground side of the coil, and on automatics goes to the center terminal of your neutral safety switch, which is ground in park or neutral
Stick shift 70/ later cares, the second flag terminal goes into the interior through a separate firewall wire/ grommet and connects to the clutch safety switch which grounds that terminal when the clutch pedal is depressed. The ignition switch in "start" then powers the relay
==========================
TROUBLESHOOTING:
If it will not crank with the key, listen for any sound, "thump" of the starter solenoid, buzzing, or light click of the starter relay. Open your window, the hood, and listen
If no click at all, make sure the relay is grounded, if 3 terminal, or if auto move the shifter back and forth and listen while twisting the key to start Same if stick/ clutch safety
If no joy remove the neutral safety wire, ground that relay terminal and try again.
If nothing jumper the two large bare relay terminals. If it cranks you have a wiring/ relay problem.
Making sure the 3 terminal is grounded, or grounding the 4 terminal with a jumper wire, jumper power to the remaining flag terminal. This should cause engine to crank. If engine cranked when jumpering the two large terminals, and not while doing this last, replace the relay.
1....A factory shop manual and or wiring diagram
2....A multimeter, and in this day and age, NO excuse, ZERO
3...A 12V test lamp, and I like incandescant rather than LED
4...At least a couple of alligator clip jumper leads
=========================
3 terminal relays: Stick shift before 70
4 terminal relays: Automatic all years, and stick shift after 70
==========================
The huge nut terminal is a junction/ power terminal and one contact
The big "square" looking screw terminal is the other contact and has a rather large wire going to the starter solenoid
The flat spade flag terminal is the trigger wire from the key in "start" usually yellow.
The three terminal relays MUST be grounded as the coil ground goes to the case
The second flat spade on the 4 wire relays is the ground side of the coil, and on automatics goes to the center terminal of your neutral safety switch, which is ground in park or neutral
Stick shift 70/ later cares, the second flag terminal goes into the interior through a separate firewall wire/ grommet and connects to the clutch safety switch which grounds that terminal when the clutch pedal is depressed. The ignition switch in "start" then powers the relay
==========================
TROUBLESHOOTING:
If it will not crank with the key, listen for any sound, "thump" of the starter solenoid, buzzing, or light click of the starter relay. Open your window, the hood, and listen
If no click at all, make sure the relay is grounded, if 3 terminal, or if auto move the shifter back and forth and listen while twisting the key to start Same if stick/ clutch safety
If no joy remove the neutral safety wire, ground that relay terminal and try again.
If nothing jumper the two large bare relay terminals. If it cranks you have a wiring/ relay problem.
Making sure the 3 terminal is grounded, or grounding the 4 terminal with a jumper wire, jumper power to the remaining flag terminal. This should cause engine to crank. If engine cranked when jumpering the two large terminals, and not while doing this last, replace the relay.
-
