Starting a rebuilt 440 thats been sitting

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ethan santin

Buck eye jim you gotta go
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Hello fabo

My father has had a freshly built flat tappet 440 sitting in his charger for 17 years, all of the fluids, pumps primed, and set up have just been complete, i am expecting complete failure upon break in, what are your guys thoughts.

Thank you for reading
Ethan
 
Hello fabo

My father has had a freshly built flat tappet 440 sitting in his charger for 17 years, all of the fluids, pumps primed, and set up have just been complete, i am expecting complete failure upon break in, what are your guys thoughts.

Thank you for reading
Ethan

I think that if it sat that long the only thing i would worry bout is the cam.. i would pull the intake and slather lube all over it again.. then prime the pump and fire it up.. no reason to even worry bout the rest of it (someone will point out something i'm missing though)
 
Also.. keep the valve covers off when you prime the oil pump to make sure you get oil to the top end... being a mopar having oil pressure doesn't mean the rockers for sure will see it :) Also.. when you don't have oil in the top end come back and we will tell you to turn the crank while you prime :) (oil holes have to line up to oil the top... it will freak you out the first time when you don't know that)
 
i'd pull the plugs and shoot some lube down the holes. yoink the intake and dump some slick stuff on top of the cam and betwixt the lifters, then i'd prime it while *slowly* turning it over.

once you've confirmed oil up at the top end i'd snap the intake back on and fire it off.

personally, i'd change the oil after a few heat cycles if you don't do it straight away. who knows how much that's deteriorated since it's been sitting.
 
17 years, I`d want to see the cylinder walls with a bore scope, no use grinding a bunch of rust up and down, and all mentioned above.
 
I'd pull the whole top end off and physically eyeball the cylinder walls, get some oil in there and lube up the cam and lifters.
 
I have a friend with a 413 (already broken in) and car was sitting for over 20 years. He turned over the engine with the starter, ignition coil wire disconnected, to oil the engine. Previously, he cleaned out the fuel tank and treplaced all fuel hoses. Then started the engine and it ran perfectly. :) Catastrophic failure is not guaranteed, no matter what method you use.

I think the cam lube is a great idea. I agree with preoiling the engine (pull distributor, oil pump drive shaft, and use a rod in your 3/8 drill). Check the fuel system and ignition system. Then attempt start.
 

at least pulling the intake on a B/RB isn't as time consuming as other motors as they're a 'dry' intake (no coolant going through it) like a ford cleveland v8.
neil.
 
Update: We broke it in for 25ish mins yesterday, Everything went very well, I know there is still a possibility for failure for the first 500 break in miles but we're happy with the way it went. I do have a question. We were leaking oil and atf at the bell housing during the break in, the leaks have slowed down a lot but Is it normal to leak a little at those spots during the break in or do you think we have rear main seal/other leaky seals problem? thank you
 
Update: We broke it in for 25ish mins yesterday, Everything went very well, I know there is still a possibility for failure for the first 500 break in miles but we're happy with the way it went. I do have a question. We were leaking oil and atf at the bell housing during the break in, the leaks have slowed down a lot but Is it normal to leak a little at those spots during the break in or do you think we have rear main seal/other leaky seals problem? thank you

No, that would be abnormal.
 
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