Starting issue

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Tims 66 Cuda

Tims 66 Cuda

Mopar mid life crisis
Joined
May 28, 2018
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Location
Poquoson, Va
Im trying to start a newly rebuilt 360. Timing and everything is spot on. The engine is 10-1 compression, Comp Cam XE274H, .040 over. When I set the choke and pump the throttle, it hits once and then nothing like its starving for fuel. Any help appreciated.

Thanks,Tim
 
Check for spark both while using the key to crank, and again by leaving he key in "run" and jumpering the starter relay

You sure the fuel is fresh? You sure iit HAS fuel?

You can check timing with a light on the starter. Where IS the timing, do you know?
 
Key is in run position and using a remote start at the relay. Fresh fuel yes . Timing is set at #1 tdc. When The choke is set and pump throttle, it burns that bit of fuel then stops. Tim
 
Just trying to start it today. Pulled plugs and turned engine over to prime. Hit the throttle and gas is present. Currently checking choke adjustment as it doesnt seem to have fast idle.

Tim
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
Key is in run position and using a remote start at the relay. Fresh fuel yes . Timing is set at #1 tdc. When The choke is set and pump throttle, it burns that bit of fuel then stops. Tim
Click to expand...
Maybe it's not getting fuel from jetting, clogged idle circuit, etc, If timing ACTUALLY is at TDC that is no-where to be. A stocker you should have at least 10BTC and with any sort of "hot cam" 15 and somtimes more "Looking at the rotor" is not setting the timing. Either static time it or run on the starter just long enough to flash it a couple times and see where it actually is
 
might need 20+ to fire first time. 274H is going to want in the 15-20 range for initial once broken in at idle.

Fill fuel bowls with a syringe and hit the lever to pump squirters. Try to not prime the carb by cranking it over. That will cause cam issues. You want it to fire right away.

Make sure it's on #1 tdc compression with rotor pointing correct terminal.

Once fired up, get it to 2000-2500 and 35-40 timing.
 
Last edited:
your Ign. 1 is start position and 2 is run position. Start or 1 os 12 volts run or 2 is 8 volts and goes through the ballast resister. Check your ballast. You can put jumpers between the wires from side to side on the ballast to test it to see if it starts. Just can't drive it to long with them jumped out or you will burn up the coil.
 
Tims 66 Cuda said:
Currently checking choke adjustment as it doesnt seem to have fast idle.
Click to expand...
Chokes are one of the most challenging mechanism to set up on a non-factory arrangement.
There is a intial choke postion, choke pull-off (sometimes called qualification) to which it opens as soon as the engine fires up, fast idle, and sometimes some control of choke opening with termperature.

For now, don't worry about choke. Follow what crackedback wrote in post #9.
Fire it up and use the idle trottle stop screw to keep it running at 'fast idle'. Then turn the screw back to close the idle as needed. Make sure the choke flap stays open. Idling at 2000 rpm in neutral its not really going to need choke. Get your engine broken in without fouling plugs or washing down the cylinder walls.
 
found the problem. Those sorry *** Comp lifters leak down as fast as they pump up. Heard of issues with these before. Who makes a good reliable lifter.

Thanks, Tim
 
Do you have adj rockers? Get a set of .100ths longer pushrods and adj at 10ths lash. That's what I did with my bleeding down hyd rollers. Didn't want to pull the heads to change out. It works. I am told from a reputable source that it is minute debris that is causing the lifter to bleed down.
 
Thanks for the reply. Ive heard the stories about Comp lifters and Im living it. These things wont stay pumped up enough to get a proper adjustment. Gone through them twice motor barely runs. Thinking about a set of Rhoads lifters.

Thanks , Tim
 
If you tackle it from my approach, you want the lifters completely bleed down, adj them at .010 ths lash. My engine would start right up, but sounded like it was one hell of a mean engine, or something was wrong until achieved op temp. It runs so much better now, but a good set of pushrods aren't cheap either!
 
Ive got Smith Bros pushrods for my application. Damn thing ran long enough to get the headers warm, best yet. It ran rough as hell though. I tried pumping up the lifters and adjusting on each cylinder, but they leak down before you can get set.
 
Update, there were a couple of problems. Rechecked valve adjustment and was ok there. checked timing, tdc etc and found drive gear off and fixed that. Worst problem was a Street Demon carb that was so full of trash OOTB. Tore down and cleaned carb check floats. Motors up and running cam broke in sounds fantastic. Thanks to all who replied.

Tim
 
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