Static timing fresh 440

[hypermite]

Ok, I'm real close to firing off the new 440 in my Duster, & I may or may not have any "help" when the time comes, instead of fumbling around with a timing light when the engine first fires, can I "static" time it close enough for cam break in ? From what I understand, with the engine at tdc on #1 cyl. you can put the balancer at 10-12 deg. btdc and line the dist. rotor up at the #1 spark position. Is it as easy as this ? or am I missing something?

 

[demon seed]

Ok, I'm real close to firing off the new 440 in my Duster, & I may or may not have any "help" when the time comes, instead of fumbling around with a timing light when the engine first fires, can I "static" time it close enough for cam break in ? From what I understand, with the engine at tdc on #1 cyl. you can put the balancer at 10-12 deg. btdc and line the dist. rotor up at the #1 spark position. Is it as easy as this ? or am I missing something?

You're close, set the engine at 10-12 btdc with the engine just ending the compression stroke soon to be the combustion stroke then install your dizzy so that it looks like the picture below(vacuum pod hose tit pointing to no. 1 cylinder). Remove the cap and rotate the dizzy so that 1 of the 8 teeth on the dizzy shaft is aligned with the little narrow bar on the fixed reluctor (on the moveable plate inside the dizzy) and lock the dizzy down. Install the dizzy rotor and notice what inner pin of the cap that the rotor is pointing to and this will be your no. 1 plug. Follow around the cap from no.1 in CCW rotation with the rest of the firing order.

 

[67Dart273]

YUP.

First make SURE your timing marks are correct. I assume?? you did this when you installed the cam/ assembled the engine. IF NOT

Get/ buy / make a "piston stop"

Remove battery ground, make sure no 1 piston is down a ways, and install in the plug hole. Wrench the engine around until it stops against the device. make a temporary mark on the balancer directly under TDC on the timing tab.

Do the same thing rotating CCW. You will have two temporary marks some distance apart. The correct TDC is halfway in between, and if the factory mark is correct, that is where it will be.

NOW (maybe you understand?) That the engine with "TDC up" can either be on "no1 ready to fire" or "no6 ready to fire" (the so called "180 off")

Do this one of two ways. Either pull either valve cover, and look either at no1 or no 6 valves. With the engine up at TDC, no1 is ready to fire if both no1 valves are closed. If both no1 valves are open (one opening, one closing) then no6 is ready to fire.

The same is true for no6, you can time the engine for either. If the engine is on TDC and both no6 valves are closed, or both no1 valves are open, just plug the distributor in so the rotor points to 6 instead of one.

So to "simplify" if both no1 valves are closed, you are on the correct rotation and plug the distributor in so the rotor points to no1 hole.

The second way to determine this is to pull no1 plug, bump the engine so you START to feel compression, then bring the engine slowly up to "the marks."

If you have a fairly stock cam, set the marks at 5-10 BTC. IF you have a "hot" cam, set the marks more like 10-15 BTC.

Now, it makes it easier if you mark the dist. case rim with a small file mark directly under the no1 plug wire tower.

If points, rotate the dist retard (CCW on a BB) and slowly advance the dist (CW on a BB) until the points just open. You can use a test lamp, or listen for a spark with the key on, or "rig" a wire from the coil tower to a plug and watch for spark.

If you have electronic, just center the reluctor tip on the center of the pickup coil core.

This will get the engine close enough that it should simply just start and run, just as if you had it parked overnight. If you can prime the carb, electric pump, or siphon, then you won't have to worry about gas, either.

Don't forget to get the battery well charged, make sure the connections are clean and tight, and if there's any doubt, use a booster.

Make SURE you have the coolant properly full, and no air pocket. Easiest way to do this on a typical Mopar is disconnect the heater hose right under the stat, fill the coolant until you get coolant out this connection, then hook it back up.

Turn on the heater when you start the car, and watch for warm/ hot hoses, which show circulation as opposed to an "air lock."

Follow the camshaft maker's suggestions for break in. Use the proper lube, and an oil additive.