Can I run an aluminum flywheel on the street. I'm not worried about cost. I dig the light weight. What are the downsides of doing so?
Steel or Aluminum?
- Thread starter srduster340
- Start date
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1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Yes you can.
The down side is that you lose the inertia provided by the weight of a heavier flywheel.
For example it may want to stall at idle (or just off idle with low throttle) but this really depends on how much weight you cut.
The down side is that you lose the inertia provided by the weight of a heavier flywheel.
For example it may want to stall at idle (or just off idle with low throttle) but this really depends on how much weight you cut.
Steel it is!
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
What motor? How much power and torque? Would be the trick set up for a SB stroker motor.
The engine is a 360/414 stroker with 460hp/511trq. Installed in a '71 Duster with OD 833 4 speed for now, no power options, 3.55 rear. I guess weight will be about 3100 with me in it.
green1
Well-Known Member
Because of lower enertia, it will bounce your butt back and forth.
RabidScott
Well-Known Member
I flat out LOVE the aluminum flywheel I have in my Challenger!! It's a 440 OD 4 speed with a 3.23 limited slip.
The way it revs up is awesome, snappy and responsive, like driving a rocketship!!
It does need a little more RPM to get it moving, in my combo I think the slightly deeper first gear of the OD really helps get things spinning.
I couldn't imagine driving that car without one now. Just plain fun!!!
I did have a 440 4sp 3.91 limited slip 1968 Dodge Charger with a steel flywheel so I do have some real world experience.
There isn't really anything wrong with a steel flywheel, but I love the aluminum one in my Challenger.
Your results may vary.
The way it revs up is awesome, snappy and responsive, like driving a rocketship!!
It does need a little more RPM to get it moving, in my combo I think the slightly deeper first gear of the OD really helps get things spinning.
I couldn't imagine driving that car without one now. Just plain fun!!!
I did have a 440 4sp 3.91 limited slip 1968 Dodge Charger with a steel flywheel so I do have some real world experience.
There isn't really anything wrong with a steel flywheel, but I love the aluminum one in my Challenger.
Your results may vary.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good combo for one to me. Will rev quicker and free up some HP and with all that TQ you got should not have much trouble getting up and going.
Check out this link.
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=faq&view=3
My dad runs there 7.5 in clutch and lightened flywheel in his LS7 powered sand car and loves it. Says it gets up and goes from a stop with no trouble.
In the end it just depends on what you want out of your car and how you are going to be using/driving it.
After reading that Tilton link I'm seriously leaning toward aluminum. I want to try it soooooooooo bad!
trapster
Well-Known Member
Has anyone lightened a stock flywheel, I am thinking of getting the machine shop to some of the extra mass off of the back of my flywheel. It looks to serve no purpose other than extra weight.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
it's only a slight difference. barely noticable.
however, if you are bracket racing and .1 sec in the 1/4mile matters then by all means go for it.
to be honest, if your rear axle isn't geared properly for racing, you would better spend your money on some 4.10's rather than a flywheel. you would notice a huge difference.
it's a trick item that can tweak a little bit of responsiveness... but nothing like a good setup in the rear or higher compression or aluminum heads or a good double pumper carb. or a narrowed rear with wide slicks. those things will give you a lot more pop.
please dont self-modify a flywheel... get an SFI approved steel or aluminum
drilling holes to remove weight is like asking for a clutch explosion, which can remove your foot.
however, if you are bracket racing and .1 sec in the 1/4mile matters then by all means go for it.
to be honest, if your rear axle isn't geared properly for racing, you would better spend your money on some 4.10's rather than a flywheel. you would notice a huge difference.
it's a trick item that can tweak a little bit of responsiveness... but nothing like a good setup in the rear or higher compression or aluminum heads or a good double pumper carb. or a narrowed rear with wide slicks. those things will give you a lot more pop.
please dont self-modify a flywheel... get an SFI approved steel or aluminum
drilling holes to remove weight is like asking for a clutch explosion, which can remove your foot.
trapster
Well-Known Member
wasn't planning on drilling any holes, just removeing some of the extra weight on the back of the flywheel by the machine shop.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
It serves as a heat sink. Don't do it. You'll just shorten it's life and glaze it quicker.
As far as the aluminum vs steel flywheel, I prefer steel, because of the inertia. You will see drop in RPM quicker between shifts with aluminum. You may want a dashpot of sorts for your carb to help with RPM drop between shifts.
It helps with acceleration, but it's sensitive to RPM change, even when you may not want RPM variation.
As far as the aluminum vs steel flywheel, I prefer steel, because of the inertia. You will see drop in RPM quicker between shifts with aluminum. You may want a dashpot of sorts for your carb to help with RPM drop between shifts.
It helps with acceleration, but it's sensitive to RPM change, even when you may not want RPM variation.
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