I have a column shift '74 Duster that we are changing to a floor shift. Is all that is needed to get rid of the shift indicator hump on the column a change of the collar? If so, what all is involved in swapping them out? thanks
Steering column collar swap
- Thread starter qwk dust
- Start date
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You will need three collars that get rid of the gear selector hump and also the shifter arm protrusion. Pull the steering wheel off ,unplug the wire harness at he bottom of the column. Then disassemble the rest being careful to note how it comes off and goes back on. The steering shaft has a master spline to make sure you get the wheel centered. This will take a couple of hours depending on your abilities and the tools you have. Good luck
Finding a good complete column wont be easy. Wont be cheap either.
Some have resorted to grinding away the extra castings and refilling with quickmetal. Thread with pics here somewhere. Good luck
1970duster440
Senior Citizen Member
Here's pics of mine after a cut off wheel, grinder some j-b weld and body filler.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
It is tons easier. I changed out one on a 68 Charger once and it isn't that bad at all.
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
Sure, it's easier but what 1970Duster440 did looks and works great - especially if you have more time than money. (Nice job, man!)
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I'm not saying that 1970Duster440 column looks bad or anything. I was just saying it is easier to just switch them out. I found a steering column for a B-body and tore it completely down and restored it back to brand new.
1970duster440
Senior Citizen Member
Thanks Preston. My column was already out since I took the car all apart, blasted and stripper all the paint off everything that wasn't bolted down. I had already done my Son's column in his truck about 18 months before. I figured I would spend more time and money trying to track down a floor shift column than just spending a couple hours more than it would take to clean it up for paint and know what I had. Ron
I think it looks great also! Any specific tips that you learned from doing it? I assume you just grind the protruding casing off and fill the shifter prindle hole carefully with JB Weld so it just fills the hole. How did you keep the JB from sagging down into the works? thanks
1970duster440
Senior Citizen Member
I used a hack saw to cut the biggest of the shift lever mount the used a grinder to get the rest. I stuffed a paper towel in the hole and worked it around til it was pretty even as far as depth in the hole. The plug doesn't need to be very thick. Mix the j-b weld and let it set a little bit so its not so runny before you put it in. After the j-b weld dried over night I used a piece of wire and dug the paper towel out through the bottom. What little bit that stays on the j-b weld doesn't hurt anything. The shift indicator just takes a little shaping with a small grinder after you cut the biggest part of it off. Then a little body filler to smooth out the rough edges. Make sure you secure the bottom ring in the park position or the key won't go back to the lock position. I went on the bottom were you can't see it, drilled a 1/8" hole through the bottom collar and the inner tube. I then drove a roll pin in just far enough to enter the hole in the inner tube and ground the pin flush with the outside of the collar. If you need I can take a pic of the roll pin installed if you want to see it.
71dustar
Well-Known Member
dont know how i missed this thread couple months ago since ive been thinking about doing this myself. since i'd like to go to a non column shifter and non column ignition what would i need to do for the ignition on the column? would my way just be easier to get a flaming river or a junk yard column?
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Good thread, BUT..........STILL, the main question hasn't really been addressed, at least not with any detail........
I'm in the same predicament.........I don't want to monkey with swapping the column out............and I HATE the thought of having to grind & shape inside the car at this point.........
So, If we locate a column with the needed bells, how difficult is it to swap out the BELLS instead of the whole column???
In my case, this would be the best scenario, IF it's a bolt-out / bolt-in procedure.............I've never tried to remove the bells for any reason, so I have NO IDEA what I'd be up against...........
Can anyone chime in who has done the job? Pics would be great if it's a bummer..............:-D
I'm in the same predicament.........I don't want to monkey with swapping the column out............and I HATE the thought of having to grind & shape inside the car at this point.........
So, If we locate a column with the needed bells, how difficult is it to swap out the BELLS instead of the whole column???
In my case, this would be the best scenario, IF it's a bolt-out / bolt-in procedure.............I've never tried to remove the bells for any reason, so I have NO IDEA what I'd be up against...........
Can anyone chime in who has done the job? Pics would be great if it's a bummer..............:-D
It would be a lengthy post to explain it all ,try looking at this to see if it helps. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/155_0308_mopar_steering_column_rebuild/index.html This shows the steering colunm out of the car but just use the points of interest in getting the bells off.
Getting the steering wheel off can be the hardest part. Every thing kinda goes in steps after that. You will see three screws to remove the t/s assembly there will also be one that goes thru a hole to unscrew the t/s handle. three screws hold the first bell on, on the shaft-lockmechanism, pop the metal cover off, and there is a roll pin to drive out for it to pull off. the ignition switch will have a small hole to access a push pin for it to release and pop out. you should now be able to pull the wire harness out if you have unplugged it. 3 or 4 screws hold the next bell and the last one comes right off.. There is also a roll pin that holds the gear selector handle on. I am not the greatest at explaning things but the pics in the above article may help.
Getting the steering wheel off can be the hardest part. Every thing kinda goes in steps after that. You will see three screws to remove the t/s assembly there will also be one that goes thru a hole to unscrew the t/s handle. three screws hold the first bell on, on the shaft-lockmechanism, pop the metal cover off, and there is a roll pin to drive out for it to pull off. the ignition switch will have a small hole to access a push pin for it to release and pop out. you should now be able to pull the wire harness out if you have unplugged it. 3 or 4 screws hold the next bell and the last one comes right off.. There is also a roll pin that holds the gear selector handle on. I am not the greatest at explaning things but the pics in the above article may help.
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
ANYONE HAVE A SET OF BELLS? I'D RATHER SWITCH THAN FIGHT.....
(fight the dust, the cutter, the goop, the sandpaper, and my allergies....) 8)
(fight the dust, the cutter, the goop, the sandpaper, and my allergies....) 8)
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Like I said before it will be easier to find a entire floor shift column and switch the entire column out. I did it on a 68 Chargrer in which it came as column shift automatic "EZ switch". I got mine from Texas Acres.
It will be easier to find the entire column for sale than just the bells but you could luck up.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I don't know if this is going to be of any help to you, but....
I've been helping my son Aaron swap out a floor shift column for his column shift column. The floor shift column wiring harness had some burned terminals and the bottom end of the column jacket (the outer tube) was missing the bearing support, so we figured we could simply swap all the major components over to the column shift column.
Boy, were we mistaken. Hoping to use the shift tube (has the shift lever for the column shift) as support for the lower steering shaft bearing, we could not get the two snap rings in the upper-third housing to engage their grooves in the top of the steering shaft. Those snap rings are there to sandwich in the bearing that is mounted in the upper housing. That's basically the only thing that keeps the steering shaft from falling out.
With a lot of head scratching, I finally figured out what the problem was. The bearing at the bottom of the steering shaft needed to be driven downward against the spring about 1/2". Doing that allowed the shaft to slide upward into the top housing far enough to install the locking plate, pin, retainer sleeve, snap ring, bearing, and snap ring (in that order).
I know it's kind of hard following what I am talking about, unless you have disassembled one of the columns. If necessary, I'll try to post an exploded view sketch to show how the pieces are oriented to one another.
Jerry
I've been helping my son Aaron swap out a floor shift column for his column shift column. The floor shift column wiring harness had some burned terminals and the bottom end of the column jacket (the outer tube) was missing the bearing support, so we figured we could simply swap all the major components over to the column shift column.
Boy, were we mistaken. Hoping to use the shift tube (has the shift lever for the column shift) as support for the lower steering shaft bearing, we could not get the two snap rings in the upper-third housing to engage their grooves in the top of the steering shaft. Those snap rings are there to sandwich in the bearing that is mounted in the upper housing. That's basically the only thing that keeps the steering shaft from falling out.
With a lot of head scratching, I finally figured out what the problem was. The bearing at the bottom of the steering shaft needed to be driven downward against the spring about 1/2". Doing that allowed the shaft to slide upward into the top housing far enough to install the locking plate, pin, retainer sleeve, snap ring, bearing, and snap ring (in that order).
I know it's kind of hard following what I am talking about, unless you have disassembled one of the columns. If necessary, I'll try to post an exploded view sketch to show how the pieces are oriented to one another.
Jerry
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
HEY............
Will 78 Dodge Truck steering column bells fit the Dart Sport column??
The seller seems to think they're the same..........YES? NO??
Will 78 Dodge Truck steering column bells fit the Dart Sport column??
The seller seems to think they're the same..........YES? NO??
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/155_0308_mopar_steering_column_rebuild/photo_06.html
HERE, see these two thin grooves? They are the ones the article forgot to mention that you need to remove snap rings from, before you can slide out the steering shaft.
I don't know about years and models of interchangeability, but I would think that any steering columns that appear to be the same shape and size, and if they contain all the same components, will probably work. Have the seller take some good photos and some even better measurements for you. I would think the main things to look for would be overall length and diameter.
Also, make sure they will guarantee the turn signal switch and ignition were working properly, and there are no fried wires or terminals ($$$$ to replace).
My two cents,
Jerry
HERE, see these two thin grooves? They are the ones the article forgot to mention that you need to remove snap rings from, before you can slide out the steering shaft.
I don't know about years and models of interchangeability, but I would think that any steering columns that appear to be the same shape and size, and if they contain all the same components, will probably work. Have the seller take some good photos and some even better measurements for you. I would think the main things to look for would be overall length and diameter.
Also, make sure they will guarantee the turn signal switch and ignition were working properly, and there are no fried wires or terminals ($$$$ to replace).
My two cents,
Jerry
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