Steering column shaft

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Matts440

Matts440

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I have never taken a mopar steering column apart, and I was wondering, I'm working on a 67 dart with manuel steering, my question is what is the diameter of the shaft? Seeing if it's possible to swap the inner shaft to be able to shorten the outer column inside the engine bay, and add two universal joints with a chrome moly shaft both inside the column and ib the engine bay to give me a little more room to clear the twin turbo set up I'm working on. Make more clearance for the down pipes. I measured the tube I have and it's 0.748". I know there's a top snap ring and just the support bearing and the bearing at the end of the housing. Am I making sense???
 
I cut the shaft back quite a bit and I installed the bearing (there's a thread in here somewhere) and then used a u joint.
20150505_194022_edit_1430871999770.jpg
 
I would get the headers or hp manifolds mocked upyo see if you need a swivel before you go too far.
 
Matts440 said:
I have never taken a mopar steering column apart, and I was wondering, I'm working on a 67 dart with manuel steering, my question is what is the diameter of the shaft? Seeing if it's possible to swap the inner shaft to be able to shorten the outer column inside the engine bay, and add two universal joints with a chrome moly shaft both inside the column and ib the engine bay to give me a little more room to clear the twin turbo set up I'm working on. Make more clearance for the down pipes. I measured the tube I have and it's 0.748". I know there's a top snap ring and just the support bearing and the bearing at the end of the housing. Am I making sense???
Click to expand...

Take it apart.....it is not that big a deal

The shaft, other than the dinky fragile plastic pieces we are complaining about is basically 2 pieces.. the top portion is a 3/4" round, spline at the top and machined at the bottom to a DD.

The bottom portion starts out mating to the top portion (3/4 DD solid) as a hollow 1" DD .......a few inches from the top it slims down to about 1" round with the final 3/4" solid section (with the rag joint pin hole) welded into it.

Easy peasy to take the 2-piece apart and remove 2"off the 3/4" top portion.....if you still want it to collapse the same distance as designed.
 
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winstoninwisc said:
I would get the headers or hp manifolds mocked upyo see if you need a swivel before you go too far.
Click to expand...
My set up is neither, it's a 3.5" down pipe off a turbo, (it's Mad Dart car I bought) In looking over his build and seeing how it's all mocked up I know it will be tight.
 
Can you expand a bit more? I am trying to do this same thing now as my turbo gen 3 hits. But am nervous to mess with steering components. I see the outer portion being cut back (which is what I need to do) but then I saw a picture that theres like a spring and then the plastic bearing? Do I just cut the outter tube, remove the spring and slide the plastic bearing up? I guess bushing may be the correct term. Or is it a different metal aftermarket bearing? Dam im so lost. Darn OCD
 
Shainesboostin said:
Can you expand a bit more? I am trying to do this same thing now as my turbo gen 3 hits. But am nervous to mess with steering components. I see the outer portion being cut back (which is what I need to do) but then I saw a picture that theres like a spring and then the plastic bearing? Do I just cut the outter tube, remove the spring and slide the plastic bearing up? I guess bushing may be the correct term. Or is it a different metal aftermarket bearing? Dam im so lost. Darn OCD
Click to expand...

Wow you brought back a old thread lol, what I ended up doing was using a sealed ball bearing but it only worked for a 73 I believe which has a smaller inner diameter then the one in my 67 so I had to have a adapter if you will made it cover the difference. Here's a pic of what I ended up doing, glad I was able to find it.

20180415_150530.jpg
 
Did you cut the factory coupler at the box off as well? I see alot do and go to a u joint style. Thanks for the info and sorry about bumping an old thread. Im getting ready to drop my gen 3 in this week and stummbled on this. Got me kinda anxious.

So, you used a bearing in place of the factory plastic piece, than the collar is what retains the bearing? Derp, I think I am following....
 
HemiDenny said:
Take it apart.....it is not that big a deal

The shaft, other than the dinky fragile plastic pieces we are complaining about is basically 2 pieces.. the top portion is a 3/4" round, spline at the top and machined at the bottom to a DD.

The bottom portion starts out mating to the top portion (3/4 DD solid) as a hollow 1" DD .......a few inches from the top it slims down to about 1" round with the final 3/4" solid section (with the rag joint pin hole) welded into it.

Easy peasy to take the 2-piece apart and remove 2"off the 3/4" top portion.....if you still want it to collapse the same distance as designed.
Click to expand...
Off topic, but when I converted my 68 Coronet to manual, my Bro Tugboat broke the shear pins I the column and just slid it out to length...
 
Shainesboostin said:
Did you cut the factory coupler at the box off as well? I see alot do and go to a u joint style. Thanks for the info and sorry about bumping an old thread. Im getting ready to drop my gen 3 in this week and stummbled on this. Got me kinda anxious.

So, you used a bearing in place of the factory plastic piece, than the collar is what retains the bearing? Derp, I think I am following....
Click to expand...

I had to shorten the spline a bit to use the u universal joint over the factory one. Yes I figured with the amount of heat my turbos were going to produce the plastic one wouldn't last to long.

20211028_205743.jpg
 
I bought the same spline to match the factory and the u joint at Chris Alston's chassis. Its all good that what we are all here for is to help each other.
 
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