Steering wheel options for us Early A drivers

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Well, don't move into My township, or the D**kheads will cite You,& fine You unless all those vehicles in "outdoor property areas" are registered,insured,& inspected. I didn't
fully understand what the "East" in My twp. really meant when I moved into the coal patch, apparently Siberia class East........................


Ya, we just got a notice from good old Upper chichester pa , that we can't even park on the grass of our property with a registered car , not alone a project car. But please wash it on your LAWN , so soapy water isn't going In the street, and when it snows they state " MOVE YOUR CARS OFF THE STREET , EVEN ONTO YOUR LAWN " until the plows are finished. WTF I don't live in Beverly Hills.
 
Thanks for all your comments guys. It was very helpful. What I ended up doing was getting the plain jane Grant 832 wheel with the 4310 install kit. Got it all from Auto Zone for about $72. I kept reading reviews stating that getting the horn button to remain in place in a chore. Will have to see what I have to work with when it arrives in a few days.
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On the back of the horn button, in the center, put a 1" square piece of double sided tape.
Stick the spring to it, and install. The tape will hold the spring in place, making it a little easier.
 
well killer6 and desy500 , had a code enforcement officer tell me '' if i can't see them , then there no violations '' . built nice fences and gates for get them in and out .
 
Funny, my local city office (building and planning) won't approve my plan to put in a concrete driveway in my front yard because all driveways must lead to a garage. But I already have a 2 car garage with a driveway.
I just wanted to put in a concrete pad, like for RV or more cars:) However he did say that if I dont cut the curb, then I can have my pad.
 
well killer6 and desy500 , had a code enforcement officer tell me '' if i can't see them , then there no violations '' . built nice fences and gates for get them in and out .
God bless You & I hope that works. The same jerks that make up these "for the public safety & moral security" also have to approve any privacy/stockade type fence, which
they rarely do, because they don't want Our treasures in their "1st class" township at all. A local refuse hauler had retired, His Son took over the business, He held on to the
very first truck He started His own business with. A few yrs. ago they cited him for having it. His Son went to a Supervisor who stated the same about fencing it in, which they
did. Then the cadre' of s**theads passed a new more restrictive ordinance, rendering that act null & void, & re-cited them again....this time w/o any way out unless they made
it a viable road-legal truck again(You know the$$$$), which they knew wasn't happenin'. After the expense of said privacy fence.
 
Thanks for all your comments guys. It was very helpful. What I ended up doing was getting the plain jane Grant 832 wheel with the 4310 install kit. Got it all from Auto Zone for about $72. I kept reading reviews stating that getting the horn button to remain in place in a chore. Will have to see what I have to work with when it arrives in a few days.View attachment 1715026126
Cool! Good luck with it & post some pics! Apologies for kinda hi-jacking Your thread, but this is becoming a real issue & intrusion into property ownership/rights!
 
ok got the stuff to install today, and the kit 4310, the piece that goes onto the shaft has no notch for the spline pattern?? It is all splines, all around. My shaft has a notch part so my steering wheel can only go on one way.
WTF? I called Grant and they say 4310 should work, but then he said 1961-66 might not fit all vehicles?? Is anyone aware of the correct kit that will have the little notch in it?? I am going to send him a picture and he is going to research it, but this is super lame.
 
yes , stock wheel only goes on one way , but aftermarket stuff does not . found though the years of going from aftermarket wheels adapters go on any way . i've had some gm and amc shaft adapters work . does no any p#'s , sorry .
 
I've filed away a master spline many times for various reasons. They do make OEM factory assembly easier but not req'd.
 
Ok update: so after looking closely, the 4310 splines will go on to the shaft without issue, as the notch in the shaft is exactly the same size as the spline spacing (2), so it glided right on. now my problem is the damn horn won't stop. Even if I unplug the little wire on the horn button, still honks without end. What in the heck is going wrong?? I pulled off the wheel and checked the wire, it is not pinched. However I can not remove the darn hub to check the contact part because the wheel puller I have, does not work on this Grant hub?? wtf with that? do I now need some special wheel puller??? In the meantime, since I have to drive, I have disconnected the horn relay wire.
 
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well that large spline is to put the wheel in the middle of the box for equal turns and turn signal cancel in both directions .
 
well that large spline is to put the wheel in the middle of the box for equal turns and turn signal cancel in both directions .
yes, i was able to line up the new wheel to the center. I tested turning and the cancel is working for both sides perfectly. My issue is the horn wont shut off. I wonder if that little roller contact is not able to reach the new steering wheel contact plate?? would that cause horn to constantly blow?
 
Ground path is what closes the relay and makes horn blow. So your ground path is complete before the roller or after the roller. I recall one that was pushing the roller down too far and grounding it to something. I forget what aftermarket wheel and/or horn button kit that was.
 
Is there a shiny chrome circle on the steering wheel center ? Almost looks like tinfoil.
That is the contact for the horn button.
I believe you have the horn button twisted on to far, which is contacting the center.
Try backing/unscrewing the button off a touch, so it isnt making contact with the center.
It should only make contact with the center when you push the horn.

Also: Do you have the spring installed between the horn button and steering wheel ?
Very important, it keeps the horn button off the steering wheel, and horn contact.
 
I decided to look aftermarket for the 66 Barracuda and I did the Firmfeel 2 box and I have the wood grain 3 spoke steering wheel from the factory and want to change it out.

Why does every manufacture (including Grant- even though they have some "factory looking wheels" ) feel compelled to make wheels that look super shiny and chrome and stupid looking twists and turns and billet cnc grooves, that all scream Chevy. That phase went out with multi colored stripes and painted bumpers. Honestly I know it appeals to some but I kinda like the original look, thin and does not cover the entire gauge cluster with the wheel that screams- "look, I dont belong here." I like my factory wheel i just want it smaller. Easy to turn for sure but I feel like a school bus driver.

OKay, sorry dont mean to offend. just tired of manufactures undeserving the Chrysler community. It is better than 10 years ago but still not great.
Joe
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So I have now had to order a special "Grant" Steering wheel puller, before I can remove the hub part, which is what touches the roller. Recap: horn is stuck on, even if I remove the center cap and wire. So it is grounding somehwere beneath the hub. maybe the roller is been compromised? I sure hope I didnt jam it in when I was installing the Grant hub. we'll know in a few days. Almost had a major accident yesterday when I guy pulled out right in front of me. I came about 1 foot from T Boning him. Locked up the brakes and everything. Would have been nice to HONK THE DAMN HORN.
 
I am using a smaller grant wheel on my 66.
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I wanted to go with the 3 spoke like toolman has on his but I havent been able to find the horn button and center cap for the wheel I bought. And when I do see them on ebay they are usually well over the $100 just for those cap and button.
i think this wheel is 14". Ive only had it out one time but it didnt seem to turn that hard and it is manual steering.
Sbould anyone know of a cap and button let me know. Doesnt matter if its the plymouth either!
Thanks Rod
 
Wanted to add another tidbit about this Grant 4310 install kit.... the collar part that goes up against the steering wheel column, is too deep by about 3/8ths of an inch, it rubs and grinds right against it as the original column tapers into it. So I had to grind the whole thing down with a 4in grinder. Kinda messes up the black paint when you grind it (heat,melt). Anyhow just something to be aware of. Another fix could have been t o put some sort of spacer, but it would have to be fabricated. I don't understand why Grant doesnt have some generic spacers that they could include in this kit.
 
Back to steering wheels, Hemi Andersen answered this question in the September 1992 Slant-6 News:
"Yes. All steering column splines are the same. I use an 83 Imperial wheel on my 65 Barracuda. It fits and works fine. Get one with a leather wrap. The main advantage: it’s smaller in diameter for better handling. The only disadvantage—it’s not stock."

About four years after Hemi provided that answer, I had occasion to patronize his shop -- aside from the Baccaruda with the Imperial wheel, he had a '63 Plymouth with a '93 Dodge truck/van steering wheel on it.
 
Final update: So this is what I determined was causing my horn to stay on. I had to buy the $10 Grant puller (wow it is so cheesey and cheaply made), removed the Grant 4310 Hub, and saw that it went so far down the shaft that besides coming into contact with the Roller(I mean pushing it down all the way), the contact ring was also coming into contact with the little screw that holds on the Signal Cancel/arm. Our original wheel has a very narrow contact ring, which is made to just touch the roller, and nothing else. The 4310 kit, the contact ring is very wide, too wide, and if pushed all the way in, it hits the head of the screw, thus grounding it and causing horn to be always on. My fix:
I took out the hex screw, carefully ground it down , got a real thin star washer and reinstalled it. Tightened it all up, and now the horn functions as it should.
This makes me wonder if maybe there is supposed to be something on my steering shaft that would limit the amount of distance the hub can slide onto the splines. I see there is a recess on the shaft, does something go there? like a lock ring? or oring or?? Horn goes Beep Beep. Thanks for all your help. You can see in my pic, the little copper shavings in the Cancel hole, that is from the rubbing on the contact plate. Also the roller you see, when I put the hub on, that roller gets pushed all the way in, spring is completly compressed.
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Ok update: I am still having issues with this new wheel. It is beeping anytime I put any extra pressure on the turn indicator lever. Also if I put any sort of leverage on the wheel as I turn, BEEP. I know what is happening as the contact plate is coming into brief contact with that screw. Is there some sort of spacer I can put on the shaft that will keep the steering wheel from pushing so far onto the shaft?Like I see that groove just past the splines, can something fit in that recess thus blocking the the wheel from traveling down.
 
I'm following this as I may end up replacing the wheel in my 64.

Measure the diameter of the recess and bend something up from a hunk of correct gauge wire. Maybe tack weld the wire ends together after installation where they come together. Or look through the McMaster-Carr catalog for something that will work.

I don't see the hex head screw that you are referring to but assuming it goes in the hole through the white cancelling Cams. What about replacing the screw with a non conductive one. Nylon? You do have to consider if it wore through or broke though. You wouldn't want anything jamming up the turning action of the wheel.

Would a short tubular spacer help out? Again, maybe McMaster-Carr?

Keep us posted.
 
Im not sure of what all the talk about needing a spacer is ?
I have a Grant wheel, with the same Grant wheel adapter, on an Early A.
It all bolted on with no issues.

I suggest retracing your steps/ install, and start over.

Im going to guess it is the way you are installing the horn button. It needs to not make contact with the wheel, unless using the horn. Make sure the spring is keeping it off the wheel.


Somewhere, you are missing something.
 
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