stock to aluminum heads

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To quote the old adage: "Speed cost money; How fast do you want to go?"

So there it is Jason; how fast do you want to go? Are you willing to do what it takes?

Since you started this build, engine and car, and then posting of track results, you have been given A LOT of good information, a little you have used and a lot you have ignored. It had been mentioned that your iron heads would be a choke point, and now you are coming around to that realization. 2.02 valves and 1.6 rockers may help, but they are not the "fix", they will be a band-aid. 410 cubes want air flow, especially when you keep the tac closer to the red line than idle.

One other thing, ET reduction isn't always tied to more horse power, the chassis has to be able to manage the hp put into it.

Trap MPH tells you hp you are making, ET tells you how well you are using it.
No joke , we can only go as fast as we can afford ! :D I was trying to keep this thread kinda part specific.
345man2 has so far gave the answer with the comparison I was wondering about.
if you want to get in to my total package we can do that. I've known for a fact that the heads were going to be a restricted spot while I was building the motor and that's why I had the machine shop give me the disassembled heads for at least 3 reasons - the first is most important to open up the restricted area. Second and third kinda go together- it's what I can afford and I like to do as much as I can myself just like some of the old school great drag racers would do.
I HIGHLY agree that I've seen cars with less horsepower go faster with better suspension and a better total package. And that's why I always talk about budget like pretty much most will because the stuff cost so much. So on with the subject of total package first and foremost before any of this even happens I need to finish the Dana 60 or else the cars going nowhere which means a call today to dr. Dif (Case) to the tune of $600 or so then of course another $4 to $450 to have everything welded correctly. And of course before any head work or any more power is produced I obviously need to throw another thousand at the suspension and upgrade the shocks and or Cal tracks or something? And I hope this doesn't spring up the whole Caltracs are great and Caltracs suck Thread. I'm just throwing that out there is something better than stock 6 cylinder leaf springs. Then now uh oh what happened this new suspension made me go two tents faster and now I need to weld in a roll bar lets see those are about 300 or so Plus I'll have to weld it in no problem. Of course I love to upgrade the electrical system to a two step MSD so I can have a rev limiter and have a better more consistent launch rpm. Okay now you can get on to the head stuff I was talking about to begin with lol.
Now as far as me ignoring anybody's advice I never said that! I can only afford to take the advice I can afford and the rest I have put in storage for when I can and it's all been very appreciated. And really on the flip side of the coin I have given a ton of advice and I bet only a few things have been used, but I was appreciative that I could help some of the people some of the time but understand I can't help everyone everytime. lol
Well to sum it up honestly I'm doing the very very very best I can with what I have if I was to tell you what I made per hour and how much I need to spend on this car before the next season you would literally asked me how do you eat and how do you pay your bills!??
rant over: now on to your regularly scheduled program LOL
 
Putting those 2.02's in your existing heads with a little porting makes them more saleable when you go to aluminum.
 
Given the cam and the existing performance I'd say if you don;t have "all the money" to properly convert - then have the 2.02s put in with a good 5 angle valve job. The cam you have is not maxing the heads you have. So the RPM port will help, but only to a point. IMO - not enough gain from the weight loss and the minor low lift flow to be worth risking the entire pacakge on the heads having an unforeseen problem out of the box. I'll always run aluminum if I can, but if you only have $1600, IMO you don't have enough to run them. Spend on bigger valves and som porting on what you have and pocket the rest until you have $2800-3k for heads, correcting them, and rockers.
Honestly this seems like the best option for my budget. As stated above I really have to put some money into the suspension before I put too much more money into horsepower.
 
Putting those 2.02's in your existing heads with a little porting makes them more saleable when you go to aluminum.

True, but I have a 360 in the works for my wife's 66 Barracuda in a couple years when I pass the Duster on to my son and grandson. Then I can just play pit crew instead of pit crew and driver. And I don't want to start my wife out going too fast.
 
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