Stop in for a cup of coffee

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!966 225 in the book. I see the casting date is 5/15/64. They used that casting for many years. Ya those springs are goofy.
Thanks was not sure. Those springs suck to put on. I use a headlight spring tool, about the only thing that works.
 
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For good reason rather than these

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Those torque limiting sockets actually work pretty good
I still prefer hand torquing, but was impressed when we checked after trying them at a shop I used to use.

Good morning!
 
Those torque limiting sockets actually work pretty good
I still prefer hand torquing, but was impressed when we checked after trying them at a shop I used to use.

Good morning!
Never used them..I torque wheel nuts to 'one small grunt' with my 1/2" breaker bar.
 
Those torque limiting sockets actually work pretty good
I still prefer hand torquing, but was impressed when we checked after trying them at a shop I used to use.

Good morning!
Sold a lot of them. They are fairly accurate and consistent.
 
Ruh Row! Over torque.
I don't see how, its been 5 months, I rotated them in July before Carlisle. Torqued them with a torque wrench to 90 ft lbs.

:wtf: REALLY lucky. THat last one couldn't have lasted long on its own. Just that and the centering on hub...

Good Morning ALL
yeah, no kidding

I don't use either of those

Dam Chris I would say you got lucky.
I suppose so
 
I don't see how, its been 5 months, I rotated them in July before Carlisle. Torqued them with a torque wrench to 90 ft lbs.

yeah, no kidding

I don't use either of those

I suppose so

Oh man, you were being lucky there. I have never used a torque wrench on wheel nuts in my entire life until now in the US. I wonder if I shall go back to manual tightening again.
 
I have an air impact, but not really enough air to drive it. So, rarely even bother with it. I was surprised how much torque the battery powered impacts can put out. We had an older Dewalt at work that was 'OK'. Then this past Spring we got another one. The new one kicks ***! The main thing we use it for is the couplers on our vacuum tube system. They are sleeves that wrap around the 2 pipes and pulled tight with 5/8 carriage bolts and nuts. A few weeks ago I was taking one off and accidently bumped the drill to tighten. Only took a few hits and the head popped right off a carriage bolt.. I also borrowed it for a junkyard run a while back and it took a bunch of wheels and suspension fasteners off with no problem. I don't trust them for tightening.
 
yep, just went and pulled the owners manual, says 85-125 ft lbs.

Oh man, you were being lucky there. I have never used a torque wrench on wheel nuts in my entire life until now in the US. I wonder if I shall go back to manual tightening again.
yeah, I started doing it YEARS ago. It started with the tractors. if you go until they are snug with a lug wrench, you wont have them tight enough and they'll back out. Plus when I had my CDL, that was one part of the state test, you had to show the lugs were torqued and put a marker, usually paint to show the lug hadn't moved to pass IDOT inspections.
 
I have an air impact, but not really enough air to drive it. So, rarely even bother with it. I was surprised how much torque the battery powered impacts can put out. We had an older Dewalt at work that was 'OK'. Then this past Spring we got another one. The new one kicks ***! The main thing we use it for is the couplers on our vacuum tube system. They are sleeves that wrap around the 2 pipes and pulled tight with 5/8 carriage bolts and nuts. A few weeks ago I was taking one off and accidently bumped the drill to tighten. Only took a few hits and the head popped right off a carriage bolt.. I also borrowed it for a junkyard run a while back and it took a bunch of wheels and suspension fasteners off with no problem. I don't trust them for tightening.
my roybi will destroy lug nuts and bolts. Thing has 375 ft lbs. I've got a 3/4 in air one that is an old Cromwell, 750 ft lbs.
 
I think a lot tell you 90-100, but just found this on Tire Racks site.

*If you cannot find the vehicle manufacturer's recommended torque spec, you can use the following as a guide.

Hardware Bolt or Stud Size Typical Torque Range in Ft/Lbs
12 x 1.5 mm 70 - 80
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
 
I think a lot tell you 90-100, but just found this on Tire Racks site.

*If you cannot find the vehicle manufacturer's recommended torque spec, you can use the following as a guide.

Hardware Bolt or Stud Size Typical Torque Range in Ft/Lbs
12 x 1.5 mm 70 - 80
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
thanks
 
In the photo it looks like the break at 12:00 is oxidized, as is the one at 3:30.
But the one at 5:00 is half bright - maybe the last one to let go? Take a close look, an over torqued should show some necking down and twisting.
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Where did those wheel studs come from?
 
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And now for something totally unrelated, call it a gun geek tech tip. I am teaching a handgun course in near future and will have a bunch of different styles of handguns for demonstration. Single action, double action, striker fire, 1911 etc etc. so when teaching I like to always use safety flags in the bores so all students know firearm is unloaded. I did not have enough flags and was to cheap to purchase more at 5-7 dollars each. A bit of weed eater string and a wire nut did the trick.
 
7/16 in. 70 - 80
6 Lug on the Grand?Wagoneers are 75.
5 Lug on the Mopar A-bodies are 55.
Miught have somehting to do with the yield on the rims, but I use 55 on the bannanaruda
 
In the photo it looks like the break at 12:00 is oxidized, as is the one at 3:30.
But the one at 5:00 is half bright - maybe the last one to let go? Take a close look, an over torqued should show some necking down and twisting.
View attachment 1715412699

Where did those wheel studs come from?
Well, they came from inside the wheel, Silly!
 
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