Strange Clutch Issue

-

mcodecuda

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
815
Location
Sherrills Ford NC

I have two clutch issues. Once you accelerate over 2500+ rpm the pedal loses it free play and gets harder to push down when shifting then at about 4000-5000 rpm when the motor starts making some horsepower the clutch starts slipping. The strange thing is that the old clutch also slipped like that. This is the clutch that I have. Hays 85-301 Hays Street/Strip Clutch Kits | Summit Racing

 
Broken motor mounts? I don't see any reason for things to change through the rpm range otherwise.
 
That's a Borg and Beck style clutch, it applies more clamping pressure as the rpms raise and may throw the internal weights/fingers out farther than your adjustment allows.
Try increasing the Freeplay, jmo.
Hydraulic clutch ?
 
That's a Borg and Beck style clutch, it applies more clamping pressure as the rpms raise and may throw the internal weights/fingers out farther than your adjustment allows.
Try increasing the Freeplay, jmo.
Hydraulic clutch ?
Everything else is stock but I’ll check the freeplay. I set the air gap at .050 per the instructions (.040-.050 for street) the race setting is (.050-.060) for racing. I’ll need to check it again. I’m really concerned about the clutch slipping unless it’s that I’m spinning the tires but I’m sure that’s unlikely.
 
That's a Borg and Beck style clutch, it applies more clamping pressure as the rpms raise and may throw the internal weights/fingers out farther than your adjustment allows.
Try increasing the Freeplay, jmo.
Hydraulic clutch ?


That would be true IF his pressure plate had roller assist. According to the link he posted it doesn’t have it.
 
Do you have 1 to 2 Inches of pedal free play?
 
Assuming that;
you installed the disc with the flywheel side to the flywheel
and the BH is correct for the input retainer, and
the over-center spring is installed on the Pedal assy and
the downrod does not rub on the firewall, at full travel
Then
Make sure your Zbar is anchored on the frame end by that horseshoe wire clip. The clip goes into holes in the Z-bar and thru to a groove on the od of those white plastic ball receivers.
The installed Z-bar should be parallel to the ground in rear view; and at about 90* to the centerline of the car, as viewed from the top.
If you have headers, make sure they don't rub on the clutch business, even when torqued over by the Power of the running engine. Your engine probably needs to be tied down.
After the freeplay is set, the fork should be near to touching the forward edge of the Bellhouse with just enough room to install the boot AND near to the center of the window, vertically speaking.
If it is not, you got wrong parts.
The adjusting pushrod should be running straight back towards the rear-end about parallel to the centerline of the car, and parallel to the ground. If it is not, you got wrong parts.
A mentioned above, check you engine mounts; all three of them.
If an engine mount is broken, you should feel the shifter torquing over with power application.
To check the engine mounts you sorta need a helper.
Set the park brake, Put the trans in gear, slip the clutch, while the helper observes the mount. If the mount cannot be seen just watch the carb jump up and down.
Reverse is checked the same way.
For the trans mount;
The old style pre 72, you gotta lever the trans up off the mount.
For the new style, it has a thru-bolt and cannot break .... but it can wear out. If the bolt is not in the center of the spool, it should be replaced, but it is captured so it will not likely make trouble.

Ok so happy hunting
 
American Powertrain told me I need at least .100 clearance to the bearing.
 
are you using stock clutch linkage and z bar? if so, mopar says to lengthen bottom pivot down one inch , the clutch will work way better, on mine i lowered it one inch, also, shortened upper bar one inch, this shortens clutch pedal travel, have to use a stop under pedal., clutch will disengage lot easier, just food for thought
 
-
Back
Top