Stripped fuel pump bolt

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prorac1

prorac1

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when installing the fuel pump, the forward most bolt hole stripped. It sucked. Lol.

Fortunately it's the open backed hole, so it's best case scenerio I guess.

What's the best approach?

Throw a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the back side?

Helicoil?

Or tap the next size up?

All help is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks. Eric and Jason
 
prorac1 said:
when installing the fuel pump, the forward most bolt hole stripped. It sucked. Lol.

Fortunately it's the open backed hole, so it's best case scenerio I guess.

What's the best approach?

Throw a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the back side?

Helicoil?

Or tap the next size up?

All help is greatly appreciated as always. Thanks. Eric and Jason
Click to expand...
 
Helicoil, or replace the cover.
Covers are dirt cheap used.
 
put in a heli coil .They are your best option. It is thread replacement with new threads that are the same size as what was there originally only stronger in most cases.
 
Thank you very much guys. That's kinda the way we were leaning. Helicoil.

It struck me as I was thinking out loud while I was posting.

Thanks again
 
maybe..........

Threaded Inserts for Metal

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One time use holes, I'm fine with helicoils
Something that is in and out, I would want an insert like Dave posted
I'll let you decide how many fuel pumps you will try out on this engine
 
Heli Coil will serve you just fine. And as far as removing and installing a bolt. I have heli Coiled more carb holes on aluminum intakes over the last 45 years and installed carbs off and on multiple times without an issue.
 
While I don't know what engine, I imagine the location isn't drill and tap for helicoil friendly. If I had to pull the LA timing cover to install the helicoil I would more likely replace the cover.
It'll be wise to dial up the low side of the pump eccentric and draw the 2 bolts up evenly so you don't cross thread and/or strip another.
You now know that one bolt hole in cast aluminum is weaker than the pumps return spring. Good luck with it.
 
RedFish said:
While I don't know what engine, I imagine the location isn't drill and tap for helicoil friendly. If I had to pull the LA timing cover to install the helicoil I would more likely replace the cover.
It'll be wise to dial up the low side of the pump eccentric and draw the 2 bolts up evenly so you don't cross thread and/or strip another.
You now know that one bolt hole in cast aluminum is weaker than the pumps return spring. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...

It's a 1965 timing cover, and the engine is still on the stand.

The hole is pretty easy to get to and the cover is cast aluminum, so I think a standard helicoil will work just fine.

In Hindsight we should have checked those holes and done this before we installed the cover. Lol.

Thanks. Eric and Jason
 
You might want to helicoil both bolt holes while the engine is out. If one stripped, the other has probably similar wear, and might not be far behind.
 
prorac1 said:
It's a 1965 timing cover, and the engine is still on the stand.

The hole is pretty easy to get to and the cover is cast aluminum, so I think a standard helicoil will work just fine.

In Hindsight we should have checked those holes and done this before we installed the cover. Lol.

Thanks. Eric and Jason
Click to expand...
That's a far from the scenario I had imagined,,, which would be a lot worse. If not removing that cover, the drill and tap chips need to be controlled. Magnetics doesn't help but a bottle cap filled with bearing grease will capture them. Don't drop/loose that inside though. Good luck with it.
 
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