Stroker- want more ponies

-
rumblefish360 said:
Hey Stroked, whatcha running on the stroker in the 1/4?
The OP has what seems to be a great base package poised to go quicker.
Though the finer details are missing I think.
Click to expand...

His build is very similar to mine i used a 340 block though 11.0's in the 1/4...using 3.91's..
 
I'm a little overwhelmed at the responses here but I think I got my answer. I doubt I'll try to squeeze any more out of it and just bite the bullit someday and do the gen III conversion. The motor is in an e body with a lot of added weight such as shaker hood, 518 overdrive, power seats, sound deadener ect. I'm not willing to go to a lower gear or higher stall so I was simply seeing if there was something obvious that could help me out, thanks to everyone.
A lot of you were asking my mph. 60ft - 1.76- 1.78 with cheater slicks, if my memory serves me correct I believe 110mph through trap
 
Thats pretty sensible.Sorta

If you're holding back the gears, for cruising, consider this;At sub 2000rpm,I dont think the intake vacuum has yet peaked.Unless your cam has been advanced a good bit.I cant say this with absolute authority because I've never had a stroker. However my 366 with a 292/509 cam, had not yet peaked. It wanted to cruise at 2400 or better.
The 3.55s, and .69o/d,(3.55x.69=2.45)put your cruise rpms into the basement(65mph= less than 2000). That cam wants to cruise 10% to 15% higher, to start getting an efficient cruise burn.Ima guessing 2200rpm at the least, 2400 would be better.
3.91s would put you at 65=2180 w 27" tires.This gear puts you at 5350/110mph.
4.10s would put you at 2285@65, and 110=5620, now you're getting somewhere. Of course by now you'd be up several mph. Say,115=5860 with the 4.1s, and you'll be in the 11sies.
So for me,the 4.10s would be the minimum. Your QTr would pick up considerably. If you tune your timing, and especially your Vacuum advance, you're likely to pick up a couple of mpgs too. Your plugs will last longer. Your oil will/may stay cleaner. And your engine may cruise cooler.
Oh yeah....She'll be a serious brawler.SERIOUS.
Aw heck, maybe my whole thinking here is out to lunch...............I forgot you were EFI'd
I've never had EFI either.So if you're injecting pretty late at cruise, I suspect you might just be able to get away with those 3.55s.
Yeah so ignore me. Im stuck in carburetor land.
 
Lol. With my converter and always cruising at 70mph my rpms are around the 2500+ anyway.
 
Well if thats true, either the tach is lying or that TC is very slippery;

MPH=( rpm x TC)/1056 x R1 x R2;.............
70 =( rpm x 84.8 )/1056 x 3.55 x .69od
Rpm = 2134,.......... this is what your rpm should be with 27" tires, and zero slip.
2500/2134 = 17% slip...................Sumpins not rite
 
If it were me.........I would port the heads and get a good sized solid cam or a small solid roller, 4.10 gears, and a better converter that matches the rest of the combo....that would put you in the low 11's easy.

For what its worth (my example): I built my motor for pump gas with 10.8:1 compression, ported Edelbrocks, and a small street roller. I run e85 now, but when I ran pump gas my best times were 1.47 60', 6.76 @ 99.5mph in the 1/8 and 10.79 @ 123mph in the 1/4 in my 3200 lbs street car.
 
11.2 said:
I'm a little overwhelmed at the responses here but I think I got my answer. I doubt I'll try to squeeze any more out of it and just bite the bullit someday and do the gen III conversion. The motor is in an e body with a lot of added weight such as shaker hood, 518 overdrive, power seats, sound deadener ect. I'm not willing to go to a lower gear or higher stall so I was simply seeing if there was something obvious that could help me out, thanks to everyone.
A lot of you were asking my mph. 60ft - 1.76- 1.78 with cheater slicks, if my memory serves me correct I believe 110mph through trap
Click to expand...

Math wise it's not that powerful. The Ebody is heavy for sure, but it's not making what I think it should, and the convertor may be part of the problem skewing the math. You can use online calculators for convertor slippage. I can tell you that a milder stroker I built, in an E body (not as dressed as yours so probablt 200lbs lighter), and with a 2200 convertor and 3.23s runs the same mph but slower ET (spins on full street radials). There are improvements to be made there for less than a conversion (a lot less), but in the big picture it might be best to move on with your package if you're bored too.
 
Well you guys have got me curious. The converter in question was originally built for the 340 I used to have in the same car. I wasn't willing to go with steeper gears due to the hwy Rpms but if I can get those to drop a couple under with a better converter then I would be willing to go with 3:91s. I will find the paperwork on my converter and let you know
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top