Strut Rod Bushing???

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mopowers

mopowers

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I need to buy strut rod bushings and have a couple questions since I've never done this before. I'm looking at buying the Moog 'improved' k7040 bushings. Do these come with an inner sleeve? Is the sleeve even necessary? It seems like it'd be impossible to reach the torque value without a sleeve because the rubber would just squish.

Thanks guys! I appreciate the help.

mog-k7040_xl.jpg
 
Thanks sir! I forgot to mention- the car is a 68 Dart.

Will I be able to reach the 40 ft-lbs without squishing the rubber out? Or do you just snug them up?
 
The moog kit comes with instructions. Follow them concerning washer placement etc and your good to go. Make sure you torque the front and rear strut rod nuts at ride height.
 
I've used the moog parts and like them the best.
 
I would take them against the shoulder. The problem with these setups on both styles is they need to be secure from moving up and down. squashing the steps into the K-member hole is the only way. If not the strut rod will move up and down and destroy the rubber. Could also wear the k member and rod. Ask me how I know.
 
I just did this job and used poly's. I think they were cheap. They came with 4 bushings and 2 sleeves. They are from energy suspension part number 5.7109G and you have the flat side towards the crossmember and the half moon side towards the outer washers. [(|--|)] Hope that makes sense lol. You prob already have the lca bushing part number- but here it is K791. I put these on my 74 duster and I just did this job the last 2 days. Definitely want to take apart at lower ball joint. I just took my calipers off the discs but messed up and hooked up both upper and lower ball joints and waited till last to hook up calipers-normal thinking right?? That's what I thought till my dumb arss had to take the brake hose off the calipers to route it behind the spindle area lol.
Good luck! Definitely need a press to install the pivot pins into the lca bushings. You can however-in a pinch- get away with installing the bushings with a big socket and a 2.5 lb hand sledge hammer. Press works better though lol. I did cheat and used the nut on the pivot-unscrew till face of nut is level with end of pivot pin- use good weighted hammer-small sledge- and "tap" the pivot pin to move lca back. hat this does is help push the torsion bar back out of its hole.
 
Thanks for the input guys! Got the LCAs out. Hopefully I can find a neighbor with a press to help me swap out bushings.
 
You dont need a press to get the bushings out of the bottom lca's. Not sure if thats what you were referring to or not. BUT you should use a press to have them installed. Make sure you press new LCA bushing onto shaft 1st. THEN press the "assembly" into the LCA itself.
 
Hi,

I have a similar problem.

I have a Plymouth Valiant 69 and I rebuild my front suspension.
I used poly kit from PST.

They sent my bushingst that are simillar to Engergy bushings:
http://www.frsport.com/images/detai...5-5a4a6db7048c-8001379737439523d1f5f82630.jpg

When I installed it I noticed that the sleeve it self is quit long and thanks to that the nut doesn't go as far as I expected (I can't install the stopper because the nut doesn't go past the hole).

Also at the first try I managed to squash the sleev so I had to make new ones is it normal ? Do they have to be so soft?

Is this a problem or do I have to cut the sleev shorter or do I have to make a new hole for the stopper ?

Also does it affect the suspension geometry ?

Chris
 
l6hmus said:
Hi,

I have a similar problem.

I have a Plymouth Valiant 69 and I rebuild my front suspension.
I used poly kit from PST.

They sent my bushingst that are simillar to Engergy bushings:
http://www.frsport.com/images/detai...5-5a4a6db7048c-8001379737439523d1f5f82630.jpg

When I installed it I noticed that the sleeve it self is quit long and thanks to that the nut doesn't go as far as I expected (I can't install the stopper because the nut doesn't go past the hole).

Also at the first try I managed to squash the sleev so I had to make new ones is it normal ? Do they have to be so soft?

Is this a problem or do I have to cut the sleev shorter or do I have to make a new hole for the stopper ?

Also does it affect the suspension geometry ?

Chris
Click to expand...
Any updates?

AlV
 
The poly bushings are to thick for use on an A body. Use the proper 72 down or 73 up kit from MOOG. The MOOG kits have a built in collar that centers the bushing on the K member.
 
Thank you!

I guess this begs the question ( and I don't think you guys can answer), why produce and sell the part if it doesn't work for the intended application?

AlV
 
Hi,

At the moment I'm working on the rear end. After I complete it I'll jack the front up again and change the poly's for original bushings. PST sent me the original kit by mistake and then the poly setup, so I have them on the garage (don't see the point ordering the 3rd kit).
As much I have read from different forums that's the way to go (or the moog upgrade kit), some have said that after installing the poly bushings they didn't get the front alligment right. Also some say that the start making strange sounds etc.
So these are going in:

ik7040.jpg

I hope they work ?


Chris
 
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