STRUT ROD MARKS

[pa340dart]

Can I file these out or are they junk
Looks like a pipe wrench was used
Thanks.

 

[Scody21]

I’d use them. Bead blast and paint. If has sharp edge, a file is ok to knock it down, but don’t crazy trying to get rid of the Mark’s..

 

[Professor Fate]

^^^Right. Strut rods aren't torsion bars, those marks will dress out and leave them perfectly useable.

 

[jos51700]

Agreed, knock the burrs off so you don't scar yourself next time you're under the car sticking your hand into a moving fan blade, and you're good to go.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would file the sharp edges off and let um fly.

 

[cudamark]

Agreed.....my question is why would anyone use a pipe wrench on a strut rod?

 

[pa340dart]

Unknown on pipe wrench usage - got 4 sets from a friend with a bunch of K/H parts awhile back sorting out what I’ll keep all struts have marks on them
Thanks for the replys
I thought so about dressing with a file maybe some Devcon to fill and paint them

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Well there you go ...you got six people saying the same thing , obviously no ones reading the previous replies.. where the first response would have got a bunch of agrees and you'd be moving on your way

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Unknown on pipe wrench usage - got 4 sets from a friend with a bunch of K/H parts awhile back sorting out what I’ll keep all struts have marks on them
Thanks for the replys
I thought so about dressing with a file maybe some Devcon to fill and paint them

It's cosmetic, clock them right and no one will ever see.... either way... they wont care regardless.

 

[mvh]

Agreed.....my question is why would anyone use a pipe wrench on a strut rod?

I know exactly why — I have been struggling all afternoon to get the $#@& nut off. Vise-grips worked about as well as expected. Hadn’t got to the pipe wrench yet … next step is the heat wrench. They really should have forged a hex on these somewhere so you could apply some leverage.

 

[Scody21]

I know exactly why — I have been struggling all afternoon to get the $#@& nut off. Vise-grips worked about as well as expected. Hadn’t got to the pipe wrench yet … next step is the heat wrench. They really should have forged a hex on these somewhere so you could apply some leverage.

A shop rag around the rod then wrapped in cardboard with a pair of vice grips… a little heat on the nut can’t hurt, just till it starts to smoke a little bit, which is about 400* F.

 

[cudamark]

I know exactly why — I have been struggling all afternoon to get the $#@& nut off. Vise-grips worked about as well as expected. Hadn’t got to the pipe wrench yet … next step is the heat wrench. They really should have forged a hex on these somewhere so you could apply some leverage.

If you remove the front nut first, holding the strut rod shouldn't be necessary.

 

[mvh]

If you remove the front nut first, holding the strut rod shouldn't be necessary.

Yeah, I learned that. But the FSM's instructions for removing the LCA left it in place. Now it's just dangling there, and I have to remove it because the bushing is crumbling, plus the PO put the washers on the wrong way out.

 

[mvh]

Torch plus pipe wrench did the trick. Didn't really mark it up at all. I broke the other side loose with an 18" long box wrench and a 4lb hammer. Somebody really torqued those babies... it wasn't rust.