Stud Gridle vs Windage Tray

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southerneagle

southerneagle

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Ok guys I can use some information and I know this is the place to get it.
I'm building a 72 340, with a 70 model crank turned 10/10, 10.5 to 1 pistons, Eddy heads and I would like to install a stud girdle to make the bottom end stronger.
I would aslo like to run the windage tray with it, but I can't seem to figure out how to make the two work together.......any ideas?.....can it be done?
I got ARP bolts with the stud girdle and they don't have the holes to mount the tray.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Gary
 
My machinist said the girdle doesnt need the tray and said you can put a crank scraper instead.
 
Girdle is a waste of money! Return it and run a windage tray if you choose.

Whoever sold that girdle to you didn't do you any favors.
 
You could buy some hex bar stock and drill and tap for the studs and go only 5 threads deep if possible, then drill and tap the other ends for the bolts for a windage tray. Kinda like a double sided nut with different threads on each end. This is just a quick and simple idea off the top of my head.

However, the windage tray may be so low after this, that it would interfere with the oil pan. Unless you use a deep sump pan....
 
You can run a girdle and a crank scraper. I have both in the bottom of my 340. The scraper is both an up and down stroke with Teflon blade.

Also a girdle will help any motor period. That said the more power your motor makes the greater the "aid" the girdle provides.
 
Thanks guys....I got the gridle from Hughes Proformance.
So which is better the windage tray or get the scrapers?
What would be the advantages of running one over the other?
What are the disadvantges of each?
I hate to drag this out but I want to learn as much as I can from you guys.
This is for a mostly street car for weekend driving.
I can't thank you guys enough for the info!!!!!!!! Thanks Gary
 
1970Duster said:
Also a girdle will help any motor period.
Click to expand...

BULLCRAP!!!

Send it back to hughes. It provides ZERO benefit to the build you are doing and is a waste of money. The block alone is capable of handling what you are going to do without any extra bullsh!t hung on it.

If you feel the need to put a girdle on a SB, YOU NEED TO BUY A BETTER BLOCK... PERIOD!
 
People tend to complain about mopars costing so much to build and get sold stuff they don't need.
 
Are you planning on running a good aftermarket oil pan? If so the windage tray isn't much benefit because the pan baffles do a prety good job of shielding the oil from the crank. A scraper would do better IMO.

As for the girdle, I don't see much benefit to it. If I understand it right it doesn't hold the main caps in place so they can still walk. All it appears to do is supposedly stabilize the studs which if you use good ARP studs are strong enough they don't need it. That's just my take on it by looking at it's design. Maybe I'm missing something?? Anybody feel free to tell me I'm wrong but provide an explanation as to why I'm wrong and what the girdle really does.
 
fishy68 said:
As for the girdle, I don't see much benefit to it. If I understand it right it doesn't hold the main caps in place so they can still walk. All it appears to do is supposedly stabilize the studs which if you use good ARP studs are strong enough they don't need it. That's just my take on it by looking at it's design. Maybe I'm missing something?? Anybody feel free to tell me I'm wrong but provide an explanation as to why I'm wrong and what the girdle really does.
Click to expand...

That's it with the hughes style sb girdle. Might as well call it a big tuning fork. For that thing to work the CAPS must be located to the girdle, not just the studs. Even the located sb ones aren't that good, expensive and cost to install is dumb. By the time you get done, you have a 1500-1800 block... just by a better one.
 
crackedback said:
BULLCRAP!!!

Send it back to hughes. It provides ZERO benefit to the build you are doing and is a waste of money. The block alone is capable of handling what you are going to do without any extra bullsh!t hung on it.

If you feel the need to put a girdle on a SB, YOU NEED TO BUY A BETTER BLOCK... PERIOD!
Click to expand...


Amen, brother.
 
I am with cracked back. Girdle waste of money. Go with ARP studs, line hone, Kevko 6 quart oil pan or other deep pan, and forget about the windage tray. Simple and effective.

Hughes is pedaling girdles that are not needed...
 
crackedback said:
Girdle is a waste of money! Return it and run a windage tray if you choose.

Whoever sold that girdle to you didn't do you any favors.
Click to expand...

crackedback said:
BULLCRAP!!!

Send it back to hughes. It provides ZERO benefit to the build you are doing and is a waste of money. The block alone is capable of handling what you are going to do without any extra bullsh!t hung on it.

If you feel the need to put a girdle on a SB, YOU NEED TO BUY A BETTER BLOCK... PERIOD!
Click to expand...

crackedback said:
People tend to complain about mopars costing so much to build and get sold stuff they don't need.
Click to expand...

340sFastback said:
I am with cracked back. Girdle waste of money. Go with ARP studs, line hone, Kevko 6 quart oil pan or other deep pan, and forget about the windage tray. Simple and effective.

Hughes is pedaling girdles that are not needed...
Click to expand...

Agree agree agree agree agree agree agree agree agree agree

Lookie here my man. At worst, you need a 4 bolt main block when you start looking for some serious power. Something a bit beyond a Edelbrock heads abilty even when ported.
 
WOW!!!!!!! Thanks guys!!!!!!!! The girdle is going back. Now why didn't I just ask you guys before I bought the thing??? On the bright side I have learned something again! So since we are here what cam and intake should I use? 72 block with 70 steel crank turned 10/10 and line bored, Mahle forged pistons on stock rods that where all balanced with the balancer and manuel flywheel, Eddy heads (can't remember which ones) with I think RPM roller rockers.Holley 750 and a true double roller timing chain and gears (Crane I think). Every thing is at the mechanics shop and he lets me pay him alittle at a time forthe parts. Thanks again everyone!!! Gary
 
Depends on how nasty you want it to be. Hydraulic or solid?

Hyd... Voodoo 60403 or 60404 are nice. Comp XE275hl more mild would be xe268H or xe274H, voodoo 60402

Solid Mopar 528 (in one of my 340's now), Comp xs274s

Tim at bullet cams is good, Brian (member ou812 here) at Indio motor machine, Mike at MRL can set you up with something.
 
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