Stumbles at stops

-

Dustman73

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
201
Reaction score
1
Location
Farmersville, Ca
Hi, I have a 225 slant and when I come to a stop after a fair amount of driving the motor stumbles, sputters and sometimes wants to die at idle. What could be the problem? I've rebuilt the carb, re-gapped the spark plugs, worked on the idle, and messed with the timing but nothing helps. :angry7: The motor was rebuilt about a month ago.. I dont know what the problem could be, I have headers on the motor as well, the motor ran fine with the headers before the rebuild..
If anyone has an idea feel more than welcome to give me some tips =P~
Thanks guys..
 
I dont have a way to check my idle rpm but i have checked my float level and it is fine, I will check the manifold bolts tomarrow, I had tought about checking those but wasn't sure if that could cause the problem.
 
Hot idle/stall problem like this could be related to tappet clearance; how long since you did a valve adjustment? Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Make sure you have the three books described in this thread.
 
The intake bolts were fine.. I havent done a valve adjustment to it yet, there is a slight ticking noise that the valves are making so that is probably possible.. I gotta check that out next..
 
The intake bolts were fine.. I havent done a valve adjustment to it yet, there is a slight ticking noise that the valves are making so that is probably possible.. I gotta check that out next..

Even, repetitive ticking is normal. If it sounds like one or maybe a few are louder than the rest, it's adjustment time.
 
More nitrous.

I was thinking of adding more but wasnt sure if I should :) haha just kidding
It sounds as though the ticking is only on one valve so yeah thats why I think its the problem..
The motor is a new rebuild and I think the guy just didnt put them all to the right specs..
 
real quick, was the cam changed from stock to performance?

if not, check for a header leak &/or reset idle speed & mix screw

The cam is a new one but it has the same specs as the original, and the idle speed and mix screw have been reset countless times and I have it to about as good as it gets.. The headers look fine and are torqued down good..
 

How are you setting the idle if you don't have a way to check your idle rpm? You need to get one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/sear...Z260716678672QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Do you have a timing light and vacuum gauge? You need both of these to properly diagnose this problem. I'd start with the vacuum gauge and see what kind of vacuum you have at idle. If the valve adjustment doesn't work, I'm guessing your vacuum is going to be a little low.
 
I did a valve adjustment yesterday and the car runs better all around, it doesn't stubble anymore and warms up easier
Thanks for the instructions Slant 6 Dan... :)
I dont have a timing tab on my motor so I just do everything by feel and sound..
Thanks for all the help guys..
 
my 170 was doing the same thing, it turned out to be bad compression.. I spent a lot of money replacing everything possible before doing a comp. check. Not very wise at all
 
-
Back
Top Bottom