Super Six 2bbl or Hyper-Pak 4bbl in 270 Dart w/225ci

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66dart225ci said:
It’s the fact that as far as preservation of the car, I don’t really want to put any extra foreign welds or fabrication onto the car. I’m trying to keep an original theme to it which is why I’m looking to use Mopar parts off of other makes and models to try to maintain originality
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going to a super six set up won't affect anything in the vein of "preservation of the car". it's all on the motor. BUT you will have to upgrade to a throttle cable and not throttle rod if the car hasn't been done so already.

as RRR said, if you can't find or don't want to pay the $$$ for the brackets/kick down you'll need to have jr high metal shop fab skills, some creativity and a little bit of understanding of how the components work together.

of course you could go with an aftermarket cable bracket/kick down set up, but it will 100% look modern in an otherwise vintage engine bay.

anyway, i'd back the truck up. read and research first before you go upgrading willy-nilly.

also, i'd recommend fixing the starting issue first. that would be a good project to get your feet wet on.
 
66dart225ci said:
Haha I haven’t really started searching yet because I haven’t narrowed down the exact carb I’m looking for. I’m still not against camming the car and going with a 4 bbl setup but again, fabrication and foreign materials could be an issue with that also.

What i really want is a Carter Competition Series Carb. Does anyone know if they made them for the Slant 6 ?? Cause I’d buy one tomorrow if it was available
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you're still going to have to fabricate throttle brackets and kick down! you're STILL going to have to switch to cable operated throttle if you're on the OG throttle rods.

questions:
1- is the car manual or automatic transmission?
2- is it stock with rods or has it been upgraded to cable for carb operation?
 
junkyardhero said:
going to a super six set up won't affect anything in the vein of "preservation of the car". it's all on the motor. BUT you will have to upgrade to a throttle cable and not throttle rod if the car hasn't been done so already.

as RRR said, if you can't find or don't want to pay the $$$ for the brackets/kick down you'll need to have jr high metal shop fab skills, some creativity and a little bit of understanding of how the components work together.

of course you could go with an aftermarket cable bracket/kick down set up, but it will 100% look modern in an otherwise vintage engine bay.

anyway, i'd back the truck up. read and research first before you go upgrading willy-nilly.

also, i'd recommend fixing the starting issue first. that would be a good project to get your feet wet on.
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Well the starting issue doesn’t really concern me too much because the guy was using a janky home made battery. I’ll be buying at least a minimum of 800 CCA and installing new battery cables. Also, according to the wiring diagrams I believe he may have had it wrong. He’s running the negative to the starter and then a wire from the switch to the starter. The wiring diagrams for the car show negative straight to the switch and then from the switch to the motor. So I think it maybe wired backwards from when he installed the solonoid incorrectly at least “a dozen times” according to the previous owner
 
junkyardhero said:
you're still going to have to fabricate throttle brackets and kick down! you're STILL going to have to switch to cable operated throttle if you're on the OG throttle rods.

questions:
1- is the car manual or automatic transmission?
2- is it stock with rods or has it been upgraded to cable for carb operation?
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The car is automatic 3 speed. I believe the carb is still completely original. I haven’t even had a chance to get a good look at it. Right now the car is completely covered. I’m waiting for better weather before I open it up again
 
66dart225ci said:
Well the starting issue doesn’t really concern me too much because the guy was using a janky home made battery. I’ll be buying at least a minimum of 800 CCA and installing new battery cables. Also, according to the wiring diagrams I believe he may have had it wrong. He’s running the negative to the starter and then a wire from the switch to the starter. The wiring diagrams for the car show negative straight to the switch and then from the switch to the motor. So I think it maybe wired backwards from when he installed the solonoid incorrectly at least “a dozen times” according to the previous owner
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79292722-0623-472A-96D5-56FC37401E5A.jpeg
 
66dart225ci said:
The car is automatic 3 speed. I believe the carb is still completely original.
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know going in that anything you change or modify WRT the carb linkage/operation you will need to address the transmission kickdown. failure to do so will wreck the transmission.

verify the carb, intake and throttle actuation (cable v rod). a lot can change in 50 years.
 
66dart225ci said:
Haha I haven’t really started searching yet because I haven’t narrowed down the exact carb I’m looking for. I’m still not against camming the car and going with a 4 bbl setup but again, fabrication and foreign materials could be an issue with that also.

What i really want is a Carter Competition Series Carb. Does anyone know if they made them for the Slant 6 ?? Cause I’d buy one tomorrow if it was available
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Nope. The closest thing was the Hyper Pak carburetor. It was a small Carter AFB.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Nope. The closest thing was the Hyper Pak carburetor. It was a small Carter AFB.
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I’ll look more into it. I’m really needing the easiest bolt on, least fabrication, best performance carb upgrade. Of all those requirements, which carb would you go with out of all the options we discussed?
 
junkyardhero said:
know going in that anything you change or modify WRT the carb linkage/operation you will need to address the transmission kickdown. failure to do so will wreck the transmission.

verify the carb, intake and throttle actuation (cable v rod). a lot can change in 50 years.
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This is very helpful. I might call these guys here to help with the technical side of things

28478961-5768-4071-A06B-7DB64A34A47C.png
 
66dart225ci said:
I’ll look more into it. I’m really needing the easiest bolt on, least fabrication, best performance carb upgrade. Of all those requirements, which carb would you go with out of all the options we discussed?
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Super Six two barrel.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Super Six two barrel.
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2nded

super six intake with a carter bbd, doesn't get much easier than that in terms of install and bang for the buck.

convert to throttle cable. see if you can round up the throttle bracket/linkage/kick down, if not, fab that up. hide it all underneath any kind of stock air cleaner. only a train spotter would be able to tell the difference at first glance.
 
junkyardhero said:
2nded

super six intake with a carter bbd, doesn't get much easier than that in terms of install and bang for the buck.

convert to throttle cable. see if you can round up the throttle bracket/linkage/kick down, if not, fab that up. hide it all underneath any kind of stock air cleaner. only a train spotter would be able to tell the difference at first glance.
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I’m not really against camming the car either. Is this setup still applicable with performance camshaft or do I need the 4 bbl for that mod?
 
66dart225ci said:
I’m not really against camming the car either. Is this setup still applicable with performance camshaft or do I need the 4 bbl for that mod?
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We've already gone over all that. Just read the responses.
 
66dart225ci said:
So with the 2 bbl Super Six setup, I thought it would be a direct fit because it was previously used on the 225ci Slant Six wasn’t it? And if it’s not a direct fit and needs modding is the performance gains really worth it? Because I’ve had people offer the option of staying stock with the single barrel carb. In that case, if I stayed stock I’d just send the carb out to have it rebuilt and tuned. What do u think?
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IIRC someone in the past said that the super 6 with the 2 barrel was 10 hp more than one barrel 6, you won't feel an extra 10 hp in the seat of your pants
 
66dart225ci said:
That’s why I’m wondering is it worth switching everything around or like another person said, keeping it stock
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If you upgrade the exhaust with the Super Six setup like Chrysler did NOT, you will feel a noticeable difference. Also, I dare you to tell a NASCAR driver they cannot tell ten horse power difference. Chrysler put a larger head pipe on SOME Super Sixes, but they failed to use an exhaust manifold with a larger outlet, so "all that" still had to go through a 1 7/8" hole. I had mine enlarged to 2.5" and ported and I can tell you I can tell a big difference, but I have a lot of other mods too. Headers are next.
 
If
RustyRatRod said:
If you upgrade the exhaust with the Super Six setup like Chrysler did NOT, you will feel a noticeable difference. Also, I dare you to tell a NASCAR driver they cannot tell ten horse power difference. Chrysler put a larger head pipe on SOME Super Sixes, but they failed to use an exhaust manifold with a larger outlet, so "all that" still had to go through a 1 7/8" hole. I had mine enlarged to 2.5" and ported and I can tell you I can tell a big difference, but I have a lot of other mods too. Headers are next.
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you have any links to the ported out manifolds or 2”+ exhaust upgrades, it would be much appreciated. BTW, since I’m new to the group I’d like to let everyone know I am a Vice President of a car club unrelated to MOPARS but just a little bit about me as well. If y’all want, leave a comment. What do you do for work? Anybody in any clubs around New York.
 
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