Super six kickdown

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Serj22

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So I found the parts I need for the bbs intake setup, but did not notice the need to change the linkage. Now all the research I have done make this part seem like it is made of pure platinum or something. The cheapest I found on ebay (for the stock piece) is about $80 after shipping, if the bidding doesnt go higher.

I dont mind aftermarket, but everything seems like it's about $60 or more. I've looked here and on other sites and it seems summit sells something that works, but I'm curious if there's another car, like an Aspen or something or even a dishwasher part: where this piece exists at a lower price? It just doesn't seem right. The carb is cheaper than the part that lets you attach to it. I don't get it, but If I must pay that, I will...

I noted this question gets asked a lot, but seems like they are all old solutions. One of the suggested links was about $170 for an aftermarket linkage...
 
I am in the same boat, the problem is not the linkage, it is that you have to fabricate the part that hooks onto the linkage at the carb end. What you pay is what you get. If you do purchase an aftermarket part, go Lokar.
 
I was about to go to a junkyard and hunt it, but my research shows just like anything that's decent - California did not allow the sale of bbs equipped slant cars. So I doubt I'll find one out there, unless a V8 off a van has something, or anything.
 
Do you need the one piece rod going from carb to trans or is it the 3 piece? I have the one piece.
 
I have also heard that you can use the kickdown cable from a Dakota. not sure of the specifics. you might do a search, here and on .org
 
I'd buy that eBay one and call it good. I got mine off eBay for $65 about 9 months ago. How much time and gas will you spend driving around looking for one? They fit and they work.
 
I'd buy that eBay one and call it good. I got mine off eBay for $65 about 9 months ago. How much time and gas will you spend driving around looking for one? They fit and they work.

The one off ebay I took. I just decided not to mess around like your saying. It has a long rod on it that I don't believe I have. I'm assuming that's for cruise control or something.
 
The complete linkage should have the bracket that the throttle cable bolts to (everything pivots on it), and a 'banana' shaped kickdown bracket that goes over the long carb stud. And hopefully you got the return spring bracket with the deal. If its for cruise control it will have a funky dual cable hold down bracket that goes over the stock single cable hold down, and the carb will have two places to connect two throttle cables to. And $65 is a great price for that piece, if its complete.
 
The complete linkage should have the bracket that the throttle cable bolts to (everything pivots on it), and a 'banana' shaped kickdown bracket that goes over the long carb stud. And hopefully you got the return spring bracket with the deal. If its for cruise control it will have a funky dual cable hold down bracket that goes over the stock single cable hold down, and the carb will have two places to connect two throttle cables to. And $65 is a great price for that piece, if its complete.


It has got the bracket that mounts to the bottom of the manifold, a long curved piece with a oval groove cut out, and a "L" shaped piece on top by the carb, along with a long bent rod that comes out of it .
 
Well, I was going to show it, but I lost the auction at the last 6 seconds. I only had my phone to do it and someone sniped it for like $67.00 I was the only bidder for a good 5 days. Guess someone wanted it more than me.
 
Is there a difference between regular 6 and super 6 ?? I might still have my stock 1 bl linkage !
 
Is there a difference between regular 6 and super 6 ?? I might still have my stock 1 bl linkage !
yea, it is different. although you can use the long rod from a one barrel on the super six, I've seen it done. you just have to "modify" the bends a bit:thumblef:
 
It is a little pricey but definitely worth it to just spend the money for the kickdown brackets and rod. I paid $98 for that stuff on ebay. I was going to use the lokar cable setup but when I went to use it but it required extra parts. Instead I got lucky on ebay. Just from my experience the rod was a tad to short to shift my Scamp at the right time so I had to put a nut through the "banana" shaped rod to take up the slack. F bodies that the super six came in (I had a 78 Aspen orig super six car) were alittle shorter. You wont be disappointed if you spend the money. Good luck!
 
The top pic was my 1bbl carter setup and the bottom is whats there now with the super six 2bbl carter. With the 1bbl the throttle lever is on the back and pulls toward the driver fender. The 2bbl lever is off side and pulls from front to back. The choke thermostat is obsolete and wont work from the 1bbl so you'll need to go manual or convert to electric. If your car doesnt have the egr stuff you'll need a egr block off plate. I definitely notice a difference in the acceleration . Some people say its only like 10 -15 hp but I think theyre comparing it to the 1978+ cars gain. Those cars had emissions and egr things and a primitive cat. So anyway hope these pics help. :)
 

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The top pic was my 1bbl carter setup and the bottom is whats there now with the super six 2bbl carter. With the 1bbl the throttle lever is on the back and pulls toward the driver fender. The 2bbl lever is off side and pulls from front to back. The choke thermostat is obsolete and wont work from the 1bbl so you'll need to go manual or convert to electric. If your car doesnt have the egr stuff you'll need a egr block off plate. I definitely notice a difference in the acceleration . Some people say its only like 10 -15 hp but I think theyre comparing it to the 1978+ cars gain. Those cars had emissions and egr things and a primitive cat. So anyway hope these pics help. :)

They really do help actually. A LOT. I just realized I am missing that arm that the throttle return ( I think it is) spring is attached to. I have the bolt there, and was wondering what it was for, but no arm... and definitly no spring. I was thinking I attached the return to the bolt somehow with a spring, but this makes so much more sense. Any idea what that hook piece is called? Or have a length on it so I can just make one?

I can get a block-off on ebay for $10 or figure out how to make it. I think either way will be about the same cost. So I may just buy it. Also - my manifold does not have that lower hose heater outlet, and also no lower plate that the throttle looks mounted to in your photo. I'm hoping it can be done without it. And I may just go manual choke.

My color combo is similar to yours as well after I ditched all the rust and painted. I also have the stock super six air cleaner ready to go as well. You can kind of see what i am missing, because this is all I have:





The other thing I was always thinking of, is if one of those weber-type plates that spun a 2bbl would eliminate the issue for the most part, and just cause the need to extend the rods. Something like this, but with both sides being for a twin, and one turned sideways:

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Heres some pics I just took of my setup. Should be helpful I hope. Oh and I used the #1232 kit for an electric choke conversion from carbsonly.com. I dont know if it will work on your carb cuz I have a Carter BBD on mine.
 

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This is wonderful. I have a metal worker friend at work who can easily fab that arm up for me. Thank you so much. Mine is a Carter BBD as well, but I believe it was intended for a 318, since it has holes in the butterflies. I already modified it to accept the choke location; I believe an electric requires some more pieces I don't have so I may just go manual... not sure yet. I will give a shot at making a coil choke like it is now, just for fun. Might make something work with levers and such.
 
This is the electric assisted choke on mine. It works pretty good considering its 40ish degrees here. I think it opens a bit to fast but I let the lemon warm up a while anyway. :)
 

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Just from my experience the rod was a tad to short to shift my Scamp at the right time so I had to put a nut through the "banana" shaped rod to take up the slack.

I had this exact same problem with a 1972 Duster. Car ran like a dog; rapidly became obvious that I was in 3rd gear most of the time. When I looked at the kickdown linkage, the stock Super Six rod could not be adjusted far enough back for the kickdown lever to be all the way open at full throttle. Out it came, and I welded in 2" of 5/16" iron rod, courtesy of Tractor Supply. It had a HUGE effect on how snappy the Super Six 225 was, compared to the 198 stocker that was in it. The puzzling part, though, is why the rod is too short? It must have had a different kickdown lever than the one on my trans.
 
It's like anything else when you change systems,get the complete system.it always looks cheaper to buy some of it but the reality is the complete system is the better bargain.Lots of us have posted complete systems on here but most want to buy only a few parts that they didn't get with the cheaper deal.You made a good choice to buy the part off of eBay time and fuel are not cheap and not to mention the frustration
 
I don't know how much help this will be.

My slant 6 has been fitted with a dual barrel carb and manifold from an Aussie VC Valiant.

The kickdown was by the previous owner.

Might not be the neatest thing but it does seem to work quite well.

 
I combined the egr block-off and the return arm into one piece kinda. I'm not any good a working with metal, but decided to give it a shot. I offset the arm so it isn't in the way of anything. I set it and the carbeurator on the intake to see if it cleared everything. The throttle arm is about 1/16" of an inch away from touching the arm at WOT. They don't touch, but clearance could be better. Everything else is in awesome clearance and it looks different. I may make the rest of it to adapt the old system and may have an arm sticking out like in the post above this to manage the throttle. I might rebend the arm to be out of the way of the throttle. I'm making another hole and a bolt will go through the end and the spring will be on the inside of it (towards the head).



 
So I found the parts I need for the bbs intake setup, but did not notice the need to change the linkage. Now all the research I have done make this part seem like it is made of pure platinum or something. The cheapest I found on ebay (for the stock piece) is about $80 after shipping, if the bidding doesnt go higher.

I dont mind aftermarket, but everything seems like it's about $60 or more. I've looked here and on other sites and it seems summit sells something that works, but I'm curious if there's another car, like an Aspen or something or even a dishwasher part: where this piece exists at a lower price? It just doesn't seem right. The carb is cheaper than the part that lets you attach to it. I don't get it, but If I must pay that, I will...

I noted this question gets asked a lot, but seems like they are all old solutions. One of the suggested links was about $170 for an aftermarket linkage...

I have made an OEM throttle / DAKOTA kickdown bracket for my S6 / WEBER 38 setup. If I had a doner around Nashville I could make something similar for the BBD crew... LMK
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The top pic was my 1bbl carter setup and the bottom is whats there now with the super six 2bbl carter. With the 1bbl the throttle lever is on the back and pulls toward the driver fender. The 2bbl lever is off side and pulls from front to back. The choke thermostat is obsolete and wont work from the 1bbl so you'll need to go manual or convert to electric. If your car doesnt have the egr stuff you'll need a egr block off plate. I definitely notice a difference in the acceleration . Some people say its only like 10 -15 hp but I think theyre comparing it to the 1978+ cars gain. Those cars had emissions and egr things and a primitive cat. So anyway hope these pics help. :)

I'm have mine together, much as your bottom photo, and so far, so good. just need the correct return spring bracket. But, second problem, I'm using the 2280 carburetor, and an air cleaner from what was a 318 out of yard, fits nicely, but since the 2 bbl carb sits higher on the manifold, the air cleaner makes a slight contact with bottom of the hood when closed. I still have to install the hood sound proofing/insulation so it'll get worse. is there a thinner air cleaner, or aftermarket that anyone suggests?
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