superstock springs rear clamps?

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scampy

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Trying to learn what clamping or unclamping the rear segment of the superstock springs will do,see lots of try this clamp or unclamp etc but what will it do? If I unclamp the rear will it make the rear rise more,ie more body lift,less body lift,will it hit tire harder/softer will suspension react quicker or slower?or anything else I would be looking for.I understand the clamp the front segment leafs tight just wondering about what happens with the rear.
Thanks
 
Bad Dart is telling you right.

you can also dial in how much of each you get.

no clamps will be most rise/ hit tire the hardest/ suspension react the quickest.

if thats too much then start clamping leafs closest to the axle first, and work your way towards the shackle as needed until you get the best performance.

from my experience most footbrake cars benefit the most from having the rear clamps fully removed. some really fast footbrake cars have to add clamps.

cars that transbrake or 4 speed guys usually need clamps to ease the hit.

thats not law or anything, thats just what I've seen as a general rule.
 
I had Super Stock springs on my Demon and all I did was put them on and set the pinion angle at 2 degrees. I also had 2 in lowering blocks on it because I did not like how high it set in the rear. I had a best 60 ft of 1.36 on a 100 shot of NOS. It was a stock interior car with no roll cage, small block.
 
Pic of Demon...
 

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Thanks guys good info,while we are at it how about pinion snubber,does it make it hit harder or softer,slower/faster?
 
scampy said:
Thanks guys good info,while we are at it how about pinion snubber,does it make it hit harder or softer,slower/faster?
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helps sometimes, and hurts sometimes. depends on the car.

I have one on my car but I keep it set at 1.5 inches from the floor. I marked the floor with a shot of white paint and with the front of the springs clamped it has not hit yet. I just have it there in the event something goes wrong. at least the u joints won't get ate up.

have used them on other cars set 1/2 inch from the floor and they work great. depends on the car. on footbrake cars that 60 ft around high 1.50's and up, I think they work the best. trans brake cars and 4 speeeds that use them will beat the piss out of the bottom of the floor without proper bracing.

the trick to the snubber is to not preload it against the floor and give the suspension time to work before it hits. in my opinion it is at its best when it hits the floor just as the rear shackles are pulled into a straight up and down position. you have maximum rise when the shackles are in that position, and the snubber stops over travel of them and unloading of the suspension by not letting them over travel forward and let the body come back down.

I have seen cars that bounce badly when using a snubber as well, and unloads the tires in an "on and off" fashion.

you just have to go through trial and error and see what your car likes.
 
can i jump in here guys.I have a question about clamping the super stock springs.on the front i have the front segment clamped, with a after market clamp. the rest of the front spring has the factory clamps. So my question is should i ad more clamps to the spring? by that i mean do i add another clamp in font or behind the factory clamp? the back still has the factory spring clamps. have not taken them off yet. i just got a new set of the new M/T ET street radial pro tires and a news set of the calvert 90/10 shocks for the front and the calvert/rancho 9 way shocks for the rear. i get to test this all out this weekend at the mokan race. so looking for advice on how to set this all up. here is a pic on how i have my springs clamped now. thanks mopar65
 

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here is a better pic.mopar65
 

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What we are doing is clamping the front segments at the tip of each leaf on each side,leaving the factory where they are and just adding to the tips that do not have any on them.:burnout:
 
i clamp right up against the factory clamps as well. it only adds to the stiffness, and thats what you want. in a sense you are trying to make the front of the spring like a ladder bar. the stiffer the better.
 
what is the torque spec on each clamp?

In other word, are we snugging to keep the leaf spring from separating, one from another? Or are we tightening the HOLY CRAP out of them to make the front segment one solid piece?....

after i thing about it for a minute, they will be pressing into each other, not separating.

I thing the question is still valid thought..........
 
So the upper and lower plates need to be fairly thick for clamping capability?
 
I have vintage Direct Connection spring clamps and I'm gonna install them on the front of my SS springs and get rid of the rear adjustable pinion snubber.....been told by a few wise old skool members that this is the way to go......car is a 66 Valiant 340 4-speed :burnout:
 
Lets all also remember that shackle position is very important , move the top shackle mount forward as much as possible , by doing this you more suspension travel and it drives the tire into the racing surface harder
 
thanks for the info guys. sorry for the delay i just got out of the hospital.
 
Since we are on this subject I will ask a question. I have been trying to sort out my traction issues since my engine swap. I've got 275/60/15 MT drag radials, SS springs, Ramcharger shocks in the back and 90/10 shocks up front. I do have the necessary 5 inches of travel up front.

I still don't get much traction on the street but I haven't got it to the track yet. Should I go ahead and start clamping up front or just wait until I get to the track to see how it hooks there? Also, would I try clamping up front or removing the rear factory clamp first?

Thanks in advance.
 
Walker,Track surface will be alot different than the road surface.Maybe wait till you make a few track passes. You may not have to change anything.
 
Walker434 said:
Since we are on this subject I will ask a question. I have been trying to sort out my traction issues since my engine swap. I've got 275/60/15 MT drag radials, SS springs, Ramcharger shocks in the back and 90/10 shocks up front. I do have the necessary 5 inches of travel up front.

I still don't get much traction on the street but I haven't got it to the track yet. Should I go ahead and start clamping up front or just wait until I get to the track to see how it hooks there? Also, would I try clamping up front or removing the rear factory clamp first?

Thanks in advance.
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walker, as said, the track and the street are two different animals. don't expect to hook on the street if you have very much power at all.

next, just go run at the track like you are. carry the clamps with you. make some passes without them on, and then get under there and clamp up. it only takes a few minutes with some help, and you can see how much you pick up on the exact same track conditions.

if you are going to be running the car on the street then I don't think it would be wise to unclamp the rear of the springs. thats a trick only for straight line guys, and would maybe spell trouble if subjected to the side loads of turning on the street.
 
Sounds good, I'll take the clamps with me when I go to the track. Thanks for the help!
 
Walker434 said:
Sounds good, I'll take the clamps with me when I go to the track. Thanks for the help!
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just remember to clamp up with the weight of the car on the wheels, or with stands under the rear housing. the suspension can't be hanging. good luck.
 
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