moparduster
Well-Known Member
Does someone have a like to a how to remove and install lca and torsion bar on a 71 duster?
Suspension removal
- Thread starter moparduster
- Start date
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72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
sure back the adjusters off on the lower control arm all the way. Remove the retainin clip at the back of the torsion bar socket. Use a torsion bar puller to remove torsion bars. THis is all assuming that you have the wheel and brake assemblies and steerin link out of the way and un hooked. Separate the LBJ from the control arm.
If you're taking out the LCA you don't need a torsion bar tool. Once you've unloaded the adjusters and pulled the retaining clips just take the nut off of the LCA pivot and use a dead-blow hammer on the LCA. The LCA will slide back out of the K member, and the torsion bar will slide out of the back of the socket. Once the LCA is clear of the K member, a couple more strikes with the dead blow hammer in the other direction should knock it off of the end of the torsion bar. Just resist the urge to use a sledge hammer instead of a dead blow hammer and you should be free and clear with no damage to the torsion bars or the LCA's.
Eliminates the chance of marring the torsion bars, and no fancy tools needed!
Eliminates the chance of marring the torsion bars, and no fancy tools needed!
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
no fancy tools needed!
i agree, ive never used a torsion bar tool for any front ends ive ever rebuilt
green1
Well-Known Member
Don it that way, just beating on the lca.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
if you are goin to do it that way make sure you thread a nut on the LCA so you dont booger up the threads
If you're taking out the LCA you don't need a torsion bar tool. Once you've unloaded the adjusters and pulled the retaining clips just take the nut off of the LCA pivot and use a dead-blow hammer on the LCA. The LCA will slide back out of the K member, and the torsion bar will slide out of the back of the socket. Once the LCA is clear of the K member, a couple more strikes with the dead blow hammer in the other direction should knock it off of the end of the torsion bar. Just resist the urge to use a sledge hammer instead of a dead blow hammer and you should be free and clear with no damage to the torsion bars or the LCA's.
Eliminates the chance of marring the torsion bars, and no fancy tools needed!
This is the way I've been doing it lately, I actually made a tortion bar removal tool several years ago but find it too time consuming to use. now I just loosen everything up and give the LCA pivot nut a whack and the T-bar comes loose. I also grease everything liberally when re-assembling so these parts don't get corroded together.
Snake
Mopar Nut
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Ditto. The grease is just to stop corrosion. Nothing should slide in operation. Indeed, the earliest design didn't have the rear torsion bar boot and it didn't take long for cars in the North to collect road salt in there and fail.
Factory service manual is a free download.I dont have the link handy. If you intend to do these sort of repairs you need it. Only other thing I can add is ,
Buying a new lower ball joint will save a whole lot of time and trouble.
Buying a new lower ball joint will save a whole lot of time and trouble.
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