Swap Meet Score,Heads #3418915 H

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barracudadave67

barracudadave67

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Just scored some complete heads at a swap. Casting # 3418915 H, with a "j" where the spark plugs go in. Are these Good heads,???. They have the valves, springs,retainers, and a set of 273 adjustable rockers and shafts.
I am going to build up a 340 this winter for my 66 Dart project.

I know they are 340/ 360 heads anyone have any more info on them,???.

Thanks Dave C.
 
Yep they are 'j heads' pretty popular along with 'x' heads for small block builds. Should be 1.88 or 2.02 intake valves. 273 rockers aren't too bad either, you'll want to get some aftermarket adjustment screws for them however. Whats the build for the 340?
 
barracudadave67 said:
Just scored some complete heads at a swap. Casting # 3418915 H, with a "j" where the spark plugs go in. Are these Good heads,???. They have the valves, springs,retainers, and a set of 273 adjustable rockers and shafts.
I am going to build up a 340 this winter for my 66 Dart project.

I know they are 340/ 360 heads anyone have any more info on them,???.

Thanks Dave C.
Click to expand...
How much did you 'score' these heads for?
 
From everything I've read the J heads flow as well as the X heads so sounds like you've got a good set of heads to build on. The adjustable rockers are good up to 6000 rpm so if you plan on spinning it higher than that you might want to invest in something better but if your just building a street engine their fine.
 
Got the heads for $200.00, Good price !!. I will probably not use the 273 rockers, I'll Use somthing like Comp or Crane,alloys or maybe a set of chromolly by Isky or someone. I have a stock dia forged crank, and a set of Manley alloy rods, with TRW forged pistons (.030). The block I have is a stock bore 72 340.
I have been rounding up parts for the block for a while now. It will eventually end up in my latest project, a 66 Dart 2-dr Gt along with a new 904 from Kieth in Indiana, and a new drive shaft from Hensley Performance.
It will mainley be a street machine to have fun with.
I also scored an A-Body 8 3/4 rear empty housing for $60.00 at the same swap. Might just make this car into the big bolt pattern axels tho. My two B-Cudas are small bolt.

See Ya in a while gotta go back to work (3rd shift is fun, HaHa.)

Dave C.
 
barracudadave67 said:
Got the heads for $200.00, Good price !!. I will probably not use the 273 rockers, I'll Use somthing like Comp or Crane,alloys or maybe a set of chromolly by Isky or someone. I have a stock dia forged crank, and a set of Manley alloy rods, with TRW forged pistons (.030). The block I have is a stock bore 72 340.
I have been rounding up parts for the block for a while now. It will eventually end up in my latest project, a 66 Dart 2-dr Gt along with a new 904 from Kieth in Indiana, and a new drive shaft from Hensley Performance.
It will mainley be a street machine to have fun with.
I also scored an A-Body 8 3/4 rear empty housing for $60.00 at the same swap. Might just make this car into the big bolt pattern axels tho. My two B-Cudas are small bolt.

See Ya in a while gotta go back to work (3rd shift is fun, HaHa.)

Dave C.
Click to expand...

$200 isn't too shabby for J's, I somehow got lucky and got mine for free lol :headbang: What kind of cam do you plan on running? Stock rockers will be up to the task depending on how wild you go...before you go dumping money into hi-po rockers and don't see any difference. I've heard good about Crane Golds if you go pretty wild, apparently there were issues awhile back, but I haven't seen any complaints in the past few months.
 
Hi Goody
Don't know what kind of cam I'll run yet. I have allways wanted to try a Racer Brown cam, if not I will go with Crane or Comp.
I have a set of Crane Golds in my 69, they are nice. BUT--- upon initial installation, one by one the adjusting screws all broke. I had a set of Smith bros screws on hand to save the day, that was two years ago. Its been fine since. I still have all the broken screws, I don't want the same kind for replacements. The 69 has forged crank,KB pistons,Eagle Rods,and an MP hyd cam(pn4452761),450/455 lift 268/272 duration, w/ overlap of 50, and c/l of 110* I have a PTC T/C of 2800 stall, with 3.23 r/gears ( I drive all hi -way).
I will prob go back to a solid cam on the eng for the Dart. I have an FBO ign in the 69 and the 67. I've got to find some Gears for the 8 3/4 I just got. I am going to look for some 3.91s for this set up. I've got backing plates and axels (they are small bolt tho), and all the rear brake stuff also.
Well I just got up and have to go into town to get some saw blades for the floors in the 66 Dart. It needs front floors. See ya later.

Dave C.
 
Hey guys over there,

we´re an engine overhauling company here in germany near Frankfurt.
Right now we´re having a Mopar engine to rebuild and in the need of a head #3418915-H. Can you guys help us to get such a head and what are the main differences f.e. to head 3418915-E ? Because this head we found in ebay.com. Seller told us the main difference is the weight of the head.

Would be so cool if you could help us out!

Thanks
Christian:newb:

barracudadave67 said:
Hi Goody
Don't know what kind of cam I'll run yet. I have allways wanted to try a Racer Brown cam, if not I will go with Crane or Comp.
I have a set of Crane Golds in my 69, they are nice. BUT--- upon initial installation, one by one the adjusting screws all broke. I had a set of Smith bros screws on hand to save the day, that was two years ago. Its been fine since. I still have all the broken screws, I don't want the same kind for replacements. The 69 has forged crank,KB pistons,Eagle Rods,and an MP hyd cam(pn4452761),450/455 lift 268/272 duration, w/ overlap of 50, and c/l of 110* I have a PTC T/C of 2800 stall, with 3.23 r/gears ( I drive all hi -way).
I will prob go back to a solid cam on the eng for the Dart. I have an FBO ign in the 69 and the 67. I've got to find some Gears for the 8 3/4 I just got. I am going to look for some 3.91s for this set up. I've got backing plates and axels (they are small bolt tho), and all the rear brake stuff also.
Well I just got up and have to go into town to get some saw blades for the floors in the 66 Dart. It needs front floors. See ya later.

Dave C.
Click to expand...
 
sauerundsohn said:
Hey guys over there,

we´re an engine overhauling company here in germany near Frankfurt.
Right now we´re having a Mopar engine to rebuild and in the need of a head #3418915-H. Can you guys help us to get such a head and what are the main differences f.e. to head 3418915-E ? Because this head we found in ebay.com. Seller told us the main difference is the weight of the head.

Would be so cool if you could help us out!

Thanks
Christian:newb:
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the H and E stand for. Maybe valve size? Those heads either came with 2.02" or 1.88" intake valves. I'm sure someone here can help you. If I were you, I would start a new thread.
 
Casting revision number.

Get a 915 head with same valve size as your other good head, you should be OK.
 
If i'm not mistaken the "H" is HP, The "E" is economy, Now thats just a guess, The X/J conversion happened around the latter part of 1970 when the 360 was introduced for the 71 model yr., The X head had the 2.02 valves, The J had the 1.88 (for the most), but its very possible some of the 1st. runs of the Js had the 2.02 valves but never made it on the 360s, it was still a 340 head with the 2.02s, I'm sure the X head was gone in 71 replaced by the J which was the primary heads installed on the 340/360, they shared the same casting from 71-73, so its very possible those "H" Js have 2.02 valves & were early J production, If they did exist they are VERY rare.

I like the J heads, there no different IMO then the X heads other then the smaller Intake valves, Compared to as an example a set of RHS heads, the RHSs will blow them out of the water "stock" for "stock".
 
The 'J ' castings are noted for cracking between the valves, if they are overheated. The "X" casting was a better peice. and is considered the best factory production head, and always has been.
 
fanofpetty said:
The 'J ' castings are noted for cracking between the valves, if they are overheated. The "X" casting was a better peice. and is considered the best factory production head, and always has been.
Click to expand...

Other then the larger valve, what made the X a better casting then the J, are you talking "flow" or just structure?

I've had both & IMO there was really no difference, they both performed well, My X heads ran better then the Js in the upper RPMs untill i installed 2.02s in a set of Js & never noticed a difference in power. One of my fastest 340s had those 2.02 Js with stock ports & it was plenty fast, was a stock bottom 72 block & a small cam.

Nothings beats the 360 magnum heads as fare as cracking between the seats, I myself never came across any crack'd Js & i've had a few. Not saying it doesn't happen.
 
Nice score... I just bagged a set of these myself Tuesday, along with a 71 340 T-quad manifold. All for $76.25! It really pays to know the casting numbers and never overlook a V8 anything in the yards...

These were found in an ex-police 87 Diplomat.. insurance auction paper on the windshield said 1987, underhood emission tag said 1984... what it had in it turned out to be a 1976 360 with the 72 340/ 71-72 360 J heads and the 1971 340 intake.... go figure!

Still has the certified 125 mph speedo and the 8.25 rear (probably posi) oops, Sure Grip... and rear swaybar.

I have found my other two 340 intakes in full size dodge B vans made well after the intakes.. I guess people who bought cars in 68-71 tossed the iron for aluminum manifolds.. then bought vans when the family came along and the 2 barrel didn't cut it..

Keep a sharp eye out folks!

Alan
 
The X and J castings are the same. There was no difference except the years they were produced.The first J castings were the 2.02 valves and actually the T/A heads were a J casting with the pushrod holes offset to allow more porting.The later J casting remained the same except they started using the 1.88 valves but the actual casting was unchanged. They would crack between the seats but you have to realize that a lot of these heads were 25 to 30 years old before they started cracking.I believe the advent of unleaded fuel only and lower octane values is what eventually led to the heads cracking. I had literally hundreds of small blocks back in the day and I dont remember any heads with cracks until the 1990's.
 
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