Swapping 340 into 64 valiant. Center drag link hitting oil pan

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Mopar64340 said:
Is the one u have in the picture for sale ?
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Sorry, but no. I bought it for my '66 Dart. You should be able to find a good used one for $100-$150. I certainly wouldn't pay $320 for one (plus shipping). That's just stupid. Just my $0.02.

Have you placed a wanted ad?
 
mopowers said:
Sorry, but no. I bought it for my '66 Dart. You should be able to find a good used one for $100-$150. I certainly wouldn't pay $320 for one (plus shipping). That's just stupid. Just my $0.02.

Have you placed a wanted ad?
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I did. And yes the one for sell is sketchy. He is asking for check or money order only.

Where did you find yours ?
 
Mopar64340 said:
I did. And yes the one for sell is sketchy. He is asking for check or money order only.

Where did you find yours ?
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I wouldn't trust someone with 8 posts with a check or money order either, but I don't think asking for a check or money order is necessarily sketchy. You'll find one. Hell if worse comes to worst, I think Firm Feel sells them for $400. May want to give them a call.

I got mine many years ago from another member here or possibly bigblockdart.
 
mopowers said:
I wouldn't trust someone with 8 posts with a check or money order either, but I don't think asking for a check or money order is necessarily sketchy. You'll find one. Hell if worse comes to worst, I think Firm Feel sells them for $400. May want to give them a call.

I got mine many years ago from another member here or possibly bigblockdart.
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No dice ! Found one though. Thank you !
 
Professor Fate said:
Yes, the center links (drag links are a completely different animal) on early As are different between slant 6s and V8s. You appear to already have the "drop center" V8 link, the slant units are straight across.
Now for why it's rubbing- what EXACTLY are you using for motor mount brackets/insulators?
If you are using what the parts catalogs are calling the correct insulators for '64-'66, they're most likely WRONG. For some time now many listings have been calling for the 2266 (or some version of that number) insulator which is WAY too thin for early As, but they are the correct mounts for the '67 and later As.
View attachment 1716208025

What you really need is the 2338 mount, which is thicker and locates the engine correctly.
View attachment 1716208026
Using the later motor mount will cause your engine to sit too low and rub on the center link exactly as your pictures have shown. It will also cause all sorts of interference issues with headers and linkages...
If you cannot find the correct rubber mounts, there is an alternative- a mid '90s truck mount.
View attachment 1716208027
Rather than reiterating everything, just read this link:
https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/JimBowenTheHolyGrailofMotorMounts.pdf
Going this route also has the advantage of a built-in torque limiter, so you can get rid of that rattletrap torque strap.
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So I ordered the bottom ones.

Are the bottom ones good if im running a 10.5 bell housing ?
 
Mopar64340 said:
So I ordered the bottom ones.

Are the bottom ones good if im running a 10.5 bell housing ?
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If by "bottom ones" you mean the truck mounts, then yes- they mount the engine the same as the correct factory isolators, regardless of transmission. That's the whole idea of the article.
 
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