Swapping 340 into 64 valiant. Center drag link hitting oil pan

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Mopar64340

Mopar64340

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Hey guys. Need help here

My car is a 64 plymouth valiant. And i got a PST front end steering set but the center drag link is original that came with the slant 6. Did chryler make different center drag links between the v8 and slant 6 ?? .

After mocking it up. Its hitting my oil pan. Anybody ever has this issue ?

20240216_143549.jpg


20240216_143552.jpg


20240216_143555.jpg
 
The oil pan also needs to be the dimpled version for the A-body pitman/idler. Not all small block oil pans are clearanced. I can't be specific but from memory that was especially true of some of the aftermarket stampings. It's also a factor that the 273/318/340 pans are different than the 360 due to the larger main bearing diameter that changes the end dimensions. The V8 center link has been reproduced in the recent past. Still available? I remember it was pretty expensive. I collected originals over the years and still see them occasionally. Grab them while you can.
 
Valiantjim said:
The oil pan also needs to be the dimpled version for the A-body pitman/idler. Not all small block oil pans are clearanced. I can't be specific but from memory that was especially true of some of the aftermarket stampings. It's also a factor that the 273/318/340 pans are different than the 360 due to the larger main bearing diameter that changes the end dimensions. The V8 center link has been reproduced in the recent past. Still available? I remember it was pretty expensive. I collected originals over the years and still see them occasionally. Grab them while you can.
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Thank you !

Do you have any your willing to sell me ?
 
I replaced my 273 in my 64cuda with a 318 and had to use the pan off the 273 along with the oil pickup tube fit just fine but would've had clearance problems with the 318 pan
 
@AJ are you speaking of your 68 S or a 66-earlier? Not the same... Clearances are much different 67-later
 
AJ/FormS said:
I shimmed my engine up and level, dimpled the pan, then leveled the link to the ground-plain; problem solved; even ran the slanty link.

BTW
those headers are awsome.
Click to expand...
Thank you! But they have been a pain for clearance. I have a torque strap but i still dont know if it will rattle or what yet
 
Mopar64340 said:
Hey guys. Need help here

My car is a 64 plymouth valiant. And i got a PST front end steering set but the center drag link is original that came with the slant 6. Did chryler make different center drag links between the v8 and slant 6 ?? .

After mocking it up. Its hitting my oil pan. Anybody ever has this issue ?

View attachment 1716207908

View attachment 1716207909

View attachment 1716207910
Click to expand...
Yes, the center links (drag links are a completely different animal) on early As are different between slant 6s and V8s. You appear to already have the "drop center" V8 link, the slant units are straight across.
Now for why it's rubbing- what EXACTLY are you using for motor mount brackets/insulators?
If you are using what the parts catalogs are calling the correct insulators for '64-'66, they're most likely WRONG. For some time now many listings have been calling for the 2266 (or some version of that number) insulator which is WAY too thin for early As, but they are the correct mounts for the '67 and later As.
1708139749813.png


What you really need is the 2338 mount, which is thicker and locates the engine correctly.
1708139918746.png

Using the later motor mount will cause your engine to sit too low and rub on the center link exactly as your pictures have shown. It will also cause all sorts of interference issues with headers and linkages...
If you cannot find the correct rubber mounts, there is an alternative- a mid '90s truck mount.
1708140404769.png

Rather than reiterating everything, just read this link:
https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/JimBowenTheHolyGrailofMotorMounts.pdf
Going this route also has the advantage of a built-in torque limiter, so you can get rid of that rattletrap torque strap.
 
I guess the angle of the pic threw me a bit, looked like more of a drop than it may actually be.
 
Valiantjim said:
@AJ are you speaking of your 68 S or a 66-earlier? Not the same... Clearances are much different 67-later
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65 Valiant 200 wagon, what a HotRod that was with a 340 in it.

I Bought a 273/904 take-out, for parts, from a friend of a friend.
I used the 273 engine mounts, the engine brackets, the A904/TC with it's tri-pot flange, and and I think it came with a suspended gas-pedal.
The only exhaust available for it was Hooker fenderwells. From there it was straight pipes and Cherry Bombs for the win. What I mean is; The pipes went straight to the back and hung under the 7.25, lol; That was around 1974, I was ~20/21 years old.
 
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Great info and experience showing up. Thanks @mopowers for the comparison pic as that says it all. I can add that I've had very good luck with Kevko aftermarket oilpans. Not only do they have the clearance dimples but can be optioned with various effective internal baffling. I can see shimming the motor mounts up from the K-frame to get away with the S6 center link but I feel strongly about keeping a good intake system under a flat hood. There just isn't much room in any direction with an early A-body.

Just for fun here's a 65 Valiant with a 440 I once ran. You can do anything with fenderwell headers! And even this setup had a flat hood. Almost a sleeper.

100_1405.JPG
 
Professor Fate said:
Yes, the center links (drag links are a completely different animal) on early As are different between slant 6s and V8s. You appear to already have the "drop center" V8 link, the slant units are straight across.
Now for why it's rubbing- what EXACTLY are you using for motor mount brackets/insulators?
If you are using what the parts catalogs are calling the correct insulators for '64-'66, they're most likely WRONG. For some time now many listings have been calling for the 2266 (or some version of that number) insulator which is WAY too thin for early As, but they are the correct mounts for the '67 and later As.
View attachment 1716208025

What you really need is the 2338 mount, which is thicker and locates the engine correctly.
View attachment 1716208026
Using the later motor mount will cause your engine to sit too low and rub on the center link exactly as your pictures have shown. It will also cause all sorts of interference issues with headers and linkages...
If you cannot find the correct rubber mounts, there is an alternative- a mid '90s truck mount.
View attachment 1716208027
Rather than reiterating everything, just read this link:
https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/JimBowenTheHolyGrailofMotorMounts.pdf
Going this route also has the advantage of a built-in torque limiter, so you can get rid of that rattletrap torque strap.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all this.

Do you know? The part number for the mount on rock auto ? I cant find it
 
You can always put a 1/4" shim plate one one side or the other of the motor mounts, that was an old time fix from the late 60's.
 
Motor MountsA2338, 2338, 2508201, EM23381-9/16" high
OE v8 insulators #2465508
Upgrade motor mount
2710​
(Napa 602-1653)1-3/4" high
 
Demonracer said:
You can always put a 1/4" shim plate one one side or the other of the motor mounts, that was an old time fix from the late 60's.
Click to expand...
I was never a fan of raising the drivetrain center of gravity. They handle better down low and have less hood clearance issues.
 
Our local Oreilly has the upgrade mounts. Just look up a 1992 Dodge w250 with a diesel. Oreilly part number is B2710, PTQ brand.
Or, Napa can get 'em here in a day.....602-1653 One new hole drilled and you're good to go.
 
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Just bought a pair of diesel ones from “Zorro” of all places.$32:00 for the pair delivered.Their the good ones with the bonded safety tabs.I can post pic and brand tomorrow if anyone needs . Only requires drilling a shallow hole for dimple.
 
Awesome references everyone. Notes and part numbers recorded. "No one knows much, together we might know enough, enough still isn't much."

Humility, key is to keep working it...
 
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