Swapping a A833OD for a A833

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74GreenScamp

YouTube channel: Castle Garage
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Hey all! I recently discovered my scamp has an A833OD aluminum case. The trans hums a bit once I shift into fourth (OD). For my plans with the car, the ratios are really not ideal. So I have a few questions:
1.) can I use my current A833OD bell housing with a non-OD A833?
2.) is the clutch linkage and fork the same for both OD and non-OD
3.) what A833 should I look for to replace my OD trans?

Thanks for reading. I’m ready for some negative comments as some people enjoy the OD, but I would prefer the ratios and durability of a non OD trans.
 
Bolt in swap EXCEPT the bellhousing. The OD has a large 5.125" bearing retainer so the bellhousing has to have that same corresponding size center hole. The non OD transmission has a smaller front bearing retainer. It's either 4.35 or 4.8. You need to measure the outside diameter of the front bearing retainer to be sure you get the right bellhousing. The alternative is, you can have an adapter ring made to fill in the gap from the OD center hole to mate with the smaller front bearing retainer. I've never liked that idea, plus a good machine shop will probably charge just as much or more than the correct bellhousing.
 
All you need is the right front bearing retainer. There are two 5.125 retainers with different bolt circles. Next you need to know the number of output splines. Then you can get the right A833 to match what you have now with no other changes.
 

All you need is the right front bearing retainer. There are two 5.125 retainers with different bolt circles. Next you need to know the number of output splines. Then you can get the right A833 to match what you have now with no other changes.
Now THAT I was not aware of.
 
I went the other direction, A833 to OD A833.

I even had the OD bearing retainer turned down so I could swap a larger retainer on to the A833, so I can easily swap trans.

The plan was use the OD for long cross country trips, the other for around town.

I haven't had the urge or need to swap the OD back out.

Imo, it's the better all around trans, all in how you shift it. It rips the treads off the tires in 1st, 2nd is fun and great for downshifting from 3rd or 4th, third is ye 'ol 4th, and OD is fantastic on the highway or country roads and for gas mileage and distance and hearing music or my co-pilot talking.

And yes, the OD can take the horsepower.

Mine is the cast iron OD, but you can have a steel bushing put in the aluminum counter shaft hole. I may have some terms there incorrect.
 
Like a few others have mentioned, all you need to do is put the correct bearing retainer on your 1:1 unit. ALL 64-74 A-body 4-speeds used a 307 front bearing with a 3.70" bolt circle, so this retainer would bolt on and fit your O/D bell with the 5.125" bore diameter.
23 SPLINE BILLET 5.125 DIA 307 BEARINGC97728 3.70" BOLT CIRCLE - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

I do have a couple original cast units in stock I would sell cheaper...but they have some pitting on the snout. It wouldn't affect anything....just doesn't look great.

3-30-2021-1.jpg
 
What axle gear is the OP running and what doesn't he like about the OD unit?

I have no idea what rear is in my truck, but I find myself doing a lot of 2-3, 3-2 "cross gate" shifts, which is not particularly comfortable.
I'm hoping changing the rear gear will make that less of an issue.

Being aware of that borderline "granny" first ratio is something to remember as well, that can make a more highway friendly rear act "lower" on takeoff.
...but can also make a less highway friendly rear borderline unusable in first.
 
Like a few others have mentioned, all you need to do is put the correct bearing retainer on your 1:1 unit. ALL 64-74 A-body 4-speeds used a 307 front bearing with a 3.70" bolt circle, so this retainer would bolt on and fit your O/D bell with the 5.125" bore diameter.
23 SPLINE BILLET 5.125 DIA 307 BEARINGC97728 3.70" BOLT CIRCLE - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

I do have a couple original cast units in stock I would sell cheaper...but they have some pitting on the snout. It wouldn't affect anything....just doesn't look great.

View attachment 1716452035
Forgive me I am new to manual transmissions. This will adapt any A body A833 trans I find to my current bell housing?
 
Forgive me I am new to manual transmissions. This will adapt any A body A833 trans I find to my current bell housing?
Assuming it is 1:1 4th gear, yes. Some of the O/D units used in A/F body had 307 front bearing, most had the lager 308.
 
I went the other direction, A833 to OD A833.

I even had the OD bearing retainer turned down so I could swap a larger retainer on to the A833, so I can easily swap trans.

The plan was use the OD for long cross country trips, the other for around town.

I haven't had the urge or need to swap the OD back out.

Imo, it's the better all around trans, all in how you shift it. It rips the treads off the tires in 1st, 2nd is fun and great for downshifting from 3rd or 4th, third is ye 'ol 4th, and OD is fantastic on the highway or country roads and for gas mileage and distance and hearing music or my co-pilot talking.

And yes, the OD can take the horsepower.

Mine is the cast iron OD, but you can have a steel bushing put in the aluminum counter shaft hole. I may have some terms there incorrect.
What rear gears and engine setup do you have?

Sorry if you answered that already, I missed these threads.
 
Well , What I know is this; in my limited experience;
for the short-tail A-body transmissions;
The 1x23 boxes mostly use the 307 front bearings, and so, they get the 4.35 retainers.
But the BBs got the 4.80 retainers, and I assume, 308 bearings, but I don't know that.
AFAIK,
>all small block overdrives came with 308 bearings and 5.125 retainers.
>The few slanty ODs that I have seen, also had the 308/5.125 retainers. I highly recommend to stay away from these, as they have the small spline output shafts and the weak od gears, that explode whenever they feel like it.
>Yes, 5.125 retainers can be lathed down to 4.80, or replaced with 4.80s.
and yes, they say, 4.35 retainers can be swapped out for 4.80s, IDK if that's true.
>But here's where it gets tricky;
There is no small-block overdrive-Bell made that doesn't have a 5.125 hole; which means, that if you want to marry a Small-block car overdrive Bell to a 307 bearinged case, yur gonna need custom parts. Or,
Or, yur gunna have to install your A833 guts, into the Overdrive case, and end up with a pile of parts that quite possibly cannot be assembled, if the cluster interferes. and still, you'll need a new front bearing to replace the one that is humming.

On another note;
>NOT all the overdrive forks I have seen, will fit on the regular A833 fork-pivots. and not all overdrive bells can be used on an SBM in an A-body, without Z-bar headaches, cuz the inboard ball-stud sometimes goes in a different place.
>The short-tail Overdrive output shafts come in two flavors, the smaller A904 size, and the bigger A727 size. So, if you currently have the small spline, sorry but I've never seen a regular A833 with a small-spline ouput, in which case, budget for a driveshaft.
>If I had a humming Overdrive, I would just recondition it.
>By the same token, I wouldn't run more than 3.55s with an overdrive........ unless I really needed Second gear to be funner. Over the decades that I have been running A833s, I find a Second Road Gear ratio of 6.82 to be big fun. Road gear is what I call the rear gear ratio, times the second gear ratio. To get 6.82, I use 1.92 x 3.55=6.82.
If you want that with an overdrive 1.67 ratio Second, you'll need 4.10s. But obviously the resulting 4.10 x 3.09= 12.67 Low-gear, is pretty doggone deep for the street. But, it makes a pretty good parade gear. In the Four years that I ran that od-Box, I never learned to like it either, and I tried and tried. At that time I had in stock every rear end, from 2.76 to 4.30, assembled with posi's, except I never had a 3.73; and I had bigger stuff too.
I even tried a different cam, different intakes, and different carbs. I really tried.
I even got me a GVod and ran it as as a splitter, for Seven nicely spaced close-ratio gears! But after a few years, that got old.
So, I know what you' re going thru. As for that box, if you have anything more than a slanty or a lo-po 318, it seems that, you either love it or you hate it, or you just put up with it.
And yes, Since I installed a Commando and GVod, I've got several spare transmissions in stock now, including a complete regular A833 with a matching BH/fork, and a your choice of shifters, both reconditioned; the one is a Hurst, and the other is a Mr. Gasket in-line shifter.
In any case, what you want to do, has been done many times. But I highly recommend that you just bite the bullet and buy the factory set-up, which will have the 727-sized output shaft, cuz AFAIK, that's the only way it comes.. and the Z-bar bracket will be in the right place.
 
But the BBs got the 4.80 retainers, and I assume, 308 bearings, but I don't know that.
4.354 bb retainer, definitely for 67 a-body.

>Yes, 5.125 retainers can be lathed down to 4.80, or replaced with 4.80s.
and yes, they say, 4.35 retainers can be swapped out for 4.80s, IDK if that's true.
5.125 can be lathed down to 4.8, or replaced with 4.8.
4.35 can be swapped for 4.8, or you can buy a spacer ring.

Brewer's has the parts, including the 4.8 bb bell I bought recently, maybe they have sb bells with different size holes?

I don't know much, but I know what I did to get it done.

Fwiw, additional info I kept when doing the swap.

67 A833 (aka Fine Spline, Wide Ratio)
2.66 1.91 1.39 1.00

Tail Casting #C97477-1
Uses the 307 bearing.
Used in A-Body cars from mid-1967 to the end of 1968.

94796 bearing retainer
4.354 diameter
23 spline input shaft
3.70 BOLT CIRCLE

30 spline output shaft

1967 383 big block-powered Darts and Barracudas mandated the addition of the 30-spline output shaft in the A-body transmission, which was expanded to include all A-body transmissions in 1968.

Cast iron ODA833, 1976 vintage:
3.09 1.67 1.00 0.73

Swapped into my bb 67, just changed the bell, the 3/4 rod/arm, same clutch, linkage, yoke/driveshaft.
 
What axle gear is the OP running and what doesn't he like about the OD unit?

I have no idea what rear is in my truck, but I find myself doing a lot of 2-3, 3-2 "cross gate" shifts, which is not particularly comfortable.
I'm hoping changing the rear gear will make that less of an issue.

Being aware of that borderline "granny" first ratio is something to remember as well, that can make a more highway friendly rear act "lower" on takeoff.
...but can also make a less highway friendly rear borderline unusable in first.
I have found that a 3.21/3.23 or better, a 3.55 is best for a street strip effort ratio with the low first gear. Any rear end ratio higher will (IMO) need a taller than normal street tire to help offset what becomes an extreme first gear ratio.

Lower than 3.21/3.23, the cars final drive gearing is really good for hwy driving.

Gear ratio X trans ratio and tire size, do the math!
Calculators on line.

I have a truck OD trans I’d like to re equip into my ‘79 Magnum. It have 3.55’s and the tires are (very close to) stock diameter at a tip over 27.4”.
 
Hey all! I recently discovered my scamp has an A833OD aluminum case. The trans hums a bit once I shift into fourth (OD). For my plans with the car, the ratios are really not ideal. So I have a few questions:
1.) can I use my current A833OD bell housing with a non-OD A833?
2.) is the clutch linkage and fork the same for both OD and non-OD
3.) what A833 should I look for to replace my OD trans?

Thanks for reading. I’m ready for some negative comments as some people enjoy the OD, but I would prefer the ratios and durability of a non OD trans.
There are several 4 speed transmissions that all have the 1:1 final drive gear. One of them has the low first gear if memory serves. The ratios are on line.

What is it your looking to get from the swap?

I’d speak with Dan Brewer myself.
Actually, I have and will again. Anytime I have called up his biz, they have been super helpful. Call Brewers.
 
You can also replace the O/D main case with an early main case. This does 2 things, first it gives you the small front bearing and retainer and clearance for the low first gear, second it gives you the tight non-floating countershaft and cast iron instead of the weak aluminum case. I built them all the time. As for the gears, I am always amazed how a 360 or big block does not have the power to efficiently run an O/D 833 according to some people. I have a 273 running a small Isky E-4 cam, 2.94 rear gears, and an O/D with a factory 64 Hurst shifter and it pulls fine in a 66 Barracuda. Some advise does not ring true.
 
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