Swapping from power to manual brakes

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Bad Sport

Bad Sport

HALF A BUBBLE OFF
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And before anyone pokes me with a stick, I did use the search function. :D Just didn't find what I was looking for.

Anyway, 74 Dart Sport currently power brakes, disc front drum rear. I want to switch to manual. I already have the correct pushrod, I have been told I can use the current master cylinder. In fact I have read the the manual cylinder would have been better with power assist and vice versa.

So what else do I need?

What do I need to do besides remove the booster and plug the port in the intake?

Does the MC bolt up to the booster bracket, firewall????

I know I will need to adjust the brake lines (that's a given).

What about the proportioning valve, same or do I need one for manual??


Thanks in advance for any insightful info!!!
 
That is what I did....removed the booster...used the manual rod....adjusted the lines .....
 
70aarcuda said:
That is what I did....removed the booster...used the manual rod....adjusted the lines .....
Click to expand...

Where did you bolt the MC, onto the booster bracket? Straight to the firewall?

Thanks, I have always just dealt with power brakes in the past, unless I didn't have them to begin with, I'm trying to free up room and drag.
 
It just bolts to the 4 firewall studs, after you take off the P/B hardware,,

There's a funky gskt that goes between firewall and M/C

If you're creative, you may not have to undo the lines..

Same Prop valve..

If you find the pedal heavy,, go to a 15/16 M/C

To take the old pushrod out,, put the M/C where it belongs on the firewall,, put the bolt thru the pedal/pushrod,.. then pull the M/C away from the firewall and space it out with something solid (2x4 wedge or socket,) go back inside the car, and pull up on the pedal,, just be carefull not to pull it so hard you smash the brake lite switch when it pops loose,, remove rod and replace with alternate..

hope it helps
 
So, when I did mine, someone had some aftermarket brake booster and made the firewall swiss cheese trying to install it. So, what I did was cut the rust out, weld in another plate, and a FABO member gave me all the coordinates to put all the holes. Since I was going to use a two hole MC I bought an adapter from Dr Diff and bolted it straight to the firewall and relocated my lines. I used an adjustable pushrod though.
 
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