Sway Bars



Feb 2, 2014
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New Richmond WI
I have a 74' dart that did not come with sway bars from the factory and I building it kind of "custom" since it was originally a /6 car. When I say custom, I mean not putting it back to original. Gonna have a demon stripe etc. My own build kinda. Making my version of a 1974 "Demon" if there was such a thing. Any how, how hard are the aftermarket sway bars to put in? Are they worth it? Any suggestions on which ones are better or easier? All input would be helpful.

They're not hard to install at all...and they're very much worth it...:cheers:
Dont go without you wont believe the car afterwards. Most are cars were 6 cyl original. slightly larger torsion bar will help also.
If you're like most of us, You'll need to consider costs. A used OEM sway bar is likely more affordable. A little saving there will afford better torsion bars if needed.
I wouldn't bother with a rear sway bar without installing subframe connectors.
I put Sway Bars on everything I own. You will not believe how well it will drive afterwards. DO IT ! LOL ! Tim
I'm assuming that I will need to make and weld brackets to my lower control arms like the link above since I dont have the 340 lower control arms..Any suggestions for making sure that I have everything in line and not set more towards one side rather then the other? Thanks
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Dodge-Dart-Duster-sway-bars-front-rear-KIT-1973-1976-PLYMOUTH-VALIANT-/161216309604?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge%7CModel%3ADart%7CSubmodel%3ASport&hash=item25893da964&vxp=mtr"]New Dodge Dart Duster Sway Bars Front Amp Rear Kit 1973 1976 Plymouth Valiant | eBay[/ame]

Would this be a bad set to put in? Its cheap but I'm not looking for anything special. Just want something to help a little with cornering.
Finally got a good bit of driving time in on mine over the weekend went to a indoor show about 60 miles from home. Found out a few things one a 360 is a thirsty sob n it handles great with sway bars new t bars ucas n strut rods almost to good now ya take a corner the car holds it the bench seat don't hold me lol n also the factory steering wheel is to big. I knocked the line pressure back on the power steering n at low speeds feels great but at high speed still a lil sensitive
I just tested a Hellwig 1 1/8" hollow front anti swaybar. Easy to bolt into the k mem. holes. The bar does touch the inner edge of the mount, no mater how adjusted. It pulled up when the u-clamps are tightened. Does it mater? It just clears the strut. The handling was close to my 74Cuda with factory bars, front and back, with HD (as I ordered it) front suspension, 778-779, so it has .90 t bars. It came with pin calipers, and a B-body k-mem. and flat 1971 type motor mounts. Now I want the Firm feel rear bar to make it complete. The 1968 Barracuda was a 318 notchback with HD 10" drums, that has Willwood discs for small ball joints. 892-893 T-bars measure .89, but that's .020 paint on them. The rear axle housing is Dr.Diff's 8 3/4", both cars with rear 10" drums. Maybe the Dr. (Cass) could fab up some frame hung bars, like the 1974 cuda?


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Any suggestions on torque when reinstalling new rubber?
I am satisfied with the Helwig hollow front bar, but still a fishy situation, So I bought the Firm feel Abody rear bar that is frame mounted and exactly like the 1974 factory. The # is SBRA 3/4" $415 with shipping. check it out.