Synthetic Oil Improvement in /6

-
pishta said:
15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection oil has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc...
Thats pretty good for a Walmart oil when it comes to solid lifter cam motors..
Click to expand...

Hey, thats odd. I got a sale add today from Advance, with Rotella on sale.
Isn't that diesel oil, or am I being stupid?
Is that okay to run that weight in my slant 6 until I toss my V8 in it next summer?
 
pishta said:
15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection oil has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc...
Thats pretty good for a Walmart oil when it comes to solid lifter cam motors..
Click to expand...

I run the high mileage Mobile1 because it also has higher than normal zinc for all my cars.

[ame]http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf[/ame]
 
To the OP, if you think that is sludge in that drain pan, you need to look at the pictures pishta posted. That oil is just oil that's picked up what was left in the engine from the last oil change and simply changed color.
 
Ruger64 said:
I just bought this B body with a 225, with 93K on it. I honestly didn't know they went that many miles. As you stated you had one with many miles on it.
When I build my 440 over the next year to slip into it.
My question would be, with a clean rebuild, and all new updated parts. Would it be considered a motor that still needs high ZDDP? Or run the synthetic right from the start?
I sure hope that made sense...
Click to expand...

The 225 that got over a qurter fo a million mles was a 76 and it was switched to Mobil1 at 10k miles. Other 225's have gone this long but mine was running full power and with new-like compressions when I sold it. (Wish I hadn't!) It was using oil at about 1 qt per 1500-2000 miles at that point.

Don't break in a new engine with Mobil 1 or any synthetic blend. It can very likely prevent the rings from seating. Use a good petroleum based oil for the 1st 2-3 changes and switch to Mobil 1 after a few thousand miles. My '03 Dakota got Mobil 1 at 5k miles, and my son who now has it) and I re-worked the heads at 247k miles for a coolant leak into a cylinder, and there was no ring ridge in the bores and the factory honing was all still there in the cylinders. With the heads reworked with all new lash adjusters, a good valve job, and the coolant leak gone, it now gets as good mileage as when brand new and ditto for power.

Yes, your 440 would be a candidate the older, higher levels of zinc to be safe. The zinc levels were reduced for environmental concerns. (Real or not.) Just buy an additive and add some per oil change with whatever oil.
 
RustyRatRod said:
To the OP, if you think that is sludge in that drain pan, you need to look at the pictures pishta posted. That oil is just oil that's picked up what was left in the engine from the last oil change and simply changed color.
Click to expand...
I did! That was impressive!

I did have the cover off of my engine and there was baaaad sludge and I posted a coupla pix 5-6 weeks back; I used Rotella for the dispersants to get more out. I am sure I still have plenty inside. My old 351C came from the boneyard and the Torino we pulled it from had Quaker State stickers all under the hood; that was back when QS still used PA crudes as a base. It was not nearly as bad as Pishta's, but it was on its way.....

Reminds me of a guy I was in the Navy with; a good ole Cajun' for LA. We were chatting about cars one day and he mentioned that his Pinto with 31k miles was not running too well. I aksed when he last changed oil and he got a quizzical look on his face and said "Change the oil?". It was like molasses when I went to change it for him..... he was a character but not a mechanic....
 
Ruger64 said:
Hey, thats odd. I got a sale add today from Advance, with Rotella on sale.
Isn't that diesel oil, or am I being stupid?
Is that okay to run that weight in my slant 6 until I toss my V8 in it next summer?
Click to expand...
It is still a good petroleum oil. It has a high level of dispersants for keeping the diesel blow-by in suspension 'til you drain it, and anti-foaming agents for diesel use. (and probably other stuff.) I just ran a batch of Rotella in my 225 before the change to Mobil 1 to clean things out a bit. The Mobil 1 solved my rod knock at start up, but I don't think the knock would have been any different with any other petroleum based oil vs Rotella. (Edit to add: I would only expect a full synthetic to do this, BTW...)

I would run the 10W30 Rotella in a 225, not the 15W40. I did add half a bottle of zinc additive to bolster up the levels. There is an article or thread over on slantsix.org on this zinc topic.
 
Funny you bring up Ford engines. I have seen more sludged up Ford engines than any other make, bar NONE. I don't know what it is about them. I think it's something about how they radiate heat maybe. No clue. I'll tell you something else Ford engines are really bad about. Valve seals hardening and breaking apart and falling into the oil pan getting sucked up into the oil pump and snapping the oil pump shaft while the engine humms away. Seen it happen a LOT in my younger years as a mechanic. Really neato how each make has their weak points. They all do.



nm9stheham said:
I did! That was impressive!

I did have the cover off of my engine and there was baaaad sludge and I posted a coupla pix 5-6 weeks back; I used Rotella for the dispersants to get more out. I am sure I still have plenty inside. My old 351C came from the boneyard and the Torino we pulled it from had Quaker State stickers all under the hood; that was back when QS still used PA crudes as a base. It was not nearly as bad as Pishta's, but it was on its way.....

Reminds me of a guy I was in the Navy with; a good ole Cajun' for LA. We were chatting about cars one day and he mentioned that his Pinto with 31k miles was not running too well. I aksed when he last changed oil and he got a quizzical look on his face and said "Change the oil?". It was like molasses when I went to change it for him..... he was a character but not a mechanic....
Click to expand...
 
I read this post a while ago and my slant was due for an oil change so I figured I'd give it a try. I had some knock upon start up and my oil light stayed on for usually about 5 secs with 10W30 mobil 1. Changed it to 5W30 and added some ZDDP additive and my knock is gone and the light goes out in about a sec. I dunno about any power gain but the knock is gone and I'm happy with it.
 
ok, so I know you want a certain percentage of zddp in your oil, and it appears mobile one has around 1000 in it, so how much is the right amount of zddp additive? if I am reading this correctly too much causes wear elsewhere in the engine? just looking for some clarification. and thanks for the info and reading material. lol, but now it's all just as clear as mud, or oil.
 
Ruger64 said:
Hey, thats odd. I got a sale add today from Advance, with Rotella on sale. Isn't that diesel oil, or am I being stupid? Is that okay to run that weight in my slant 6 until I toss my V8 in it next summer?
Click to expand...

In the old school yes. Diesel oil will be marked as diesel oil on the can. Most diesels today run 5w, especially Ford's as they are oil fired injectors. It helps them greatly.

I run 0w-40 mobil one in my 440. I used to run 5w-40 mobil one diesel oil prior to the local advance auto carrying the 0w exotic stuff. Works great.
 
A little late to the party...

I dunno where you guys found Brad Penn for $12 a quart :wack: but I just bought it for $6.50 a quart at O'Rielly. $12 a quart makes me want to go back and buy the rest of the case they ordered.
 
I hope i dont sound like an idiot, but im unsure so i might as well ask. Are there things you need to worry about when switching from non-synthetic to full synthetic? ive heard you should switch right off the bat.
 
I use $1.89 house brand farm and fleet or autozone oil in wifes crv going on 195k pulled valve cover and clean as Can be with changes every 7,500 to 8k miles. My dakota 4.7 usually gets whatever name brand is on sale with rottela 10/30 every summer and she has 215k changed every 5k, clean as can be. Did use mobile one on the dakota from about 10k to about 35k and noticed no difference so I must be the odd guy that doesn't think it does a whole lot. My demon gets 10/30 VR1
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top