t5 trans swap?

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1st,,quick time has some non sfi approved bell housings left,,,last i heard was 12 then one was sold making it 11 left,, for 212 bucks,, call quick time directly,,they are in indiana,,,talk to ross mc combs,,he is the owner,, all the newer bells are for mopar are sfi approved,,for drag racing,,you can get a deal on the left over non approved if this is a street car,,,212.00 bucks,,,

your dodge bel housing may be adaptable ,, put the tranny up to it see if the transd and dodge bell go all the way together,,,,and then see if it can be redriled to accept the T 5
 
would i need to see about the depth of the housing? like for the input shaft? its off like a early 90s dodge half ton truck. i took the housing, slave cylinder, clutch master cyl, and lines. it was on a wrecked truck of my friends so it was free lol. i will let everyone know what i find
 
did you get the pedal assembly out of the truck ?? ram or dakota ???

the dakotas bolt the tranny from inside the bell housing,,i dont know about the ram,,, see if the bellhousing mates to the tranny,,and if there is a place to dreill to mount it,,if the input shaft is too long,,you can make an adapter plate to mate the tranns and bell together,,then make it thick enough to shorten up the input shaft length,,,,if that all fails,,,call quick time before the discounted bells are gone
 
tyler_s18 said:
would i need to see about the depth of the housing? like for the input shaft? its off like a early 90s dodge half ton truck. i took the housing, slave cylinder, clutch master cyl, and lines. it was on a wrecked truck of my friends so it was free lol. i will let everyone know what i find
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did you take the throwout bearing by any chance?
 
Any of you guys know if a T5 will fit with a bench seat? I was going to do an auto but decided to go 5 speed instead. Just need to work with a bench.
 
tyler_s18 said:
ya. i got the fork and bearing and bearing housing to i believe
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would you mind measuring the diameter of the throwout bearing for me, where it slides over the input shaft? I need to know, because the old mopar throwout bearing is too small to fit over the t5 input shaft, so if i want to make this swap work with mechanical clutch linkage i need to figure out what t/o bearing im gonna use now
 
gmachinedart1 said:
Some pics of shifter locaton and hyd clutch master on t-5 swap.


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I took a rough measurement from the seam sealer at the foward part of the tunnel back to the center of shifter handle;roughly 18.5".The stick I'm using is 8" with a 4"sweep puting the shifter ball approx 22.5-23.0" back from that seam.
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Hey Justin, would you be able to tell me the part number on the shifter you have in your car? im assuming you are using an aftermarket shifter (not just stick) made by hurst, and was wondering which one exactly you are using because i have a guy selling one locally and I wanted to see if its the same one...thanks:thumbup:
 
I am currently finishing up my T5 conversion in my 67 Dart w/360. Used a T5 from a 92 mustang gt that I rebuilt myself, quick time bellhousing,360 flywheel double drilled for a ford 10.5 clutch. Input bearing from Keisler Engineering. Used a clutch fork for a 92 mustang.Long pivot ball and adjustable throwout bearing from Mcleod. Stock A body 4 speed pedals,wilwood master cylinder with firewall adapter from keisler. CNC push slave cylinder and rod. Had to cut, modify, and weld the torsion bar support across the trans tunnel as the shifter comes out on the back edge of the support. Had my driveshaft shortened 1.5" and a T5 yoke installed. I haven't rounded up all my pics as of yet but i do hope to have it back on the road soon to road test it.
 
sounds great,,lots of guys would like to see pics of it,,,,

why the ford pressure plate ?? and whats the story on an adjustable throw out bearing??? it still uses a fork ?? all sounds intresting, and did you have the fly wheel re balanced after drilling it ?
 
I used the ford clutch mainly because of availability. You can by a mustang clutch set pretty much anywhere if I get in a jam. I had to use the long mcleod pivot ball stud and adjustable throwout bearing to get enough throw on my clutch fork to engage/ disengage the clutch. I've been pretty much doing everything by trial and error. When I started this project a little over a year ago there wasn't much info available on the T5 swap. Even the guys at quick time weren't much help. I didn't rebalance the flywheel since it was centered when it was drilled and pretty much took out the same amount of material all the way around. I guess I'll find out if I need to do that soon.
 
737jetdr said:
I used the ford clutch mainly because of availability. You can by a mustang clutch set pretty much anywhere if I get in a jam. I had to use the long mcleod pivot ball stud and adjustable throwout bearing to get enough throw on my clutch fork to engage/ disengage the clutch. I've been pretty much doing everything by trial and error. When I started this project a little over a year ago there wasn't much info available on the T5 swap. Even the guys at quick time weren't much help. I didn't rebalance the flywheel since it was centered when it was drilled and pretty much took out the same amount of material all the way around. I guess I'll find out if I need to do that soon.
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What size tire are you running and what kind of power is that 360 putting out? and is your bellhousing also drilled for the mopar 4 speed? show us some pics as soon as you can!:-D
 
Not sure on the power output. 360 .030 over w/ purple camshaft, 2.02 heads, LD340 intake & eddy carb. 3.23 rear. Tires are P245/50hr-16. I will try to get some pics together when I get home. This has been a long project due to the fact that I work in Newark, Nj and live in Indianapolis, In. and fly back and forth each week. I work on it when I can if my "honey do " list isn't too long when I'm home.
 
thanks for the info...your setup sounds like it has a little more power than mine but less gear and alot less tire...sounds like it will be a fun car!
 
well living in indiana,,,and working in NJ,,, wooow long comute lol,

any way the adjustable throe out bearing sounds intresting,,,never heard of that before,,, but using the ford fork,,solves the throw out bearing inside diameter problem on this swap,,,very kool...
 
the adjustable throwout bearing is made by Mcleod pt# 16515. the biggest problem I had when starting this project was finding info on which components to use, Mopar or Ford. The hydraulic T.O. bearing is by far the best way to go but is also the most expensive. Mcleod pt# 1319. If you use Ford parts w/o the hyd T.O. bearing you have to use a push slave cylinder to operate the clutch fork. If you use the mopar clutch fork a pull type slave cylinder must be used. I couldn't figure anyway to use a cable type of setup because of the shape of the bellhousing.
 
i had a hyd bearing for 10 years in my car ,,it was a nascar style,,it never really had the correct amount of reach ,,or travel,,it finally went bad,,so i converted back to a stock fork/t bearing and made a set up with a puller type slave,,seems to work great,,,i had tossed around the idea of adapting a mustang style clutch pedal and cable,,also i like that you used the ford fork and throw out,,that cures other problems with this swap,, i will look in to this adjustable t bearing thanks for the part numbers,,
 
the swap looks really good! having pics from more than one member helps to give a better picture of everything
 
Just so everyone knows going into this, you will have to cut & modify the torsion bar support that runs from side to side under the floor. I will post a few of the pics that I have. There are many ways to do this i am sure but this is how I did it. Important note. before cutting the support I would recommend letting all the tension off of the torsion bars. I am going to add subframe connectors to my car to help add some more support to the torsion bar support.
 
Torsion bar support mods

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The whole center of the support has to be cut out except the top edge just underneath the metal that is bent back. If not the trans will not sit high enough to get the correct driveline angle. I did not cut the entire support in half. I'm sorry. I can't find the other pics. I then cut a piece of 1/4" steel and made a bridge that went from one side to the other and is the same height as the top edge piece and welded it on both sides and along the back top edge. I then cut a piece of 3/16" steel and laid it across the top of the whole opening hammered and tack welded it in place for extra support.

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anyone have more info on the clutch pedal? i like the looks of the last set up by 727jetdr. but cant figure out how it works lol. 737jetdr what slave cyl, etc did you use? and where can i find the same stuff to look at it?
 
mshred said:
would you mind measuring the diameter of the throwout bearing for me, where it slides over the input shaft? I need to know, because the old mopar throwout bearing is too small to fit over the t5 input shaft, so if i want to make this swap work with mechanical clutch linkage i need to figure out what t/o bearing im gonna use now
Click to expand...

ya i will measure this weekend
 
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