Tobor
Active Member
3 year’s on this “restoration” and still working out the bugs.
I can’t keep the temperature down to a safe level.
Too much time and money to stop now or to risk ruining the engine.
Yikes!
TA 340 6 pack in a 68 Dodge Dart vert
- Thread starter Tobor
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3 year’s on this “restoration” and still working out the bugs.
I can’t keep the temperature down to a safe level.
Too much time and money to stop now or to risk ruining the engine.
Yikes!
maybe i'm mistaken but I don't see a shroud in that picture and how hot does it get ?
Tobor
Active Member
Yes, I bought and installed a repop shroud. Kind of skimpy but correct to the car.
I am going off the factory dashboard gauge that seems to be working as far as I can tell. It has never boiled off but needle goes far right, too far for my liking.
Infra red gun says 180 at radiator and up to 215 at different points on engine.
I am going off the factory dashboard gauge that seems to be working as far as I can tell. It has never boiled off but needle goes far right, too far for my liking.
Infra red gun says 180 at radiator and up to 215 at different points on engine.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
what engine was in this car, originally?
Do you have a fixed fan on the water pump? You could really really! Use a viscous fan on front. How old is the radiator? Is the radiator a V-8 radiator? I swapped these things out on my wife’s car along with a report shroud like you have, and it dropped the temperature, a lot!
What’s the compression ratio and where is the distributor set up? Is the cam stock?
What’s the compression ratio and where is the distributor set up? Is the cam stock?
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
that's kind of what I was getting at. I believe sl/6 cars had a smaller frame opening for a smaller rad. So you'd need to open it up and of course, have a GOOD v8 rad. I have a stock 340 type clutch fan. No problem ovreheating until I went to 4.30 gears and 70 mph freeway driving.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Like said
IR gun at the stat house, on the engine side; forget the factory gauges, they lie,lie,lie.
Under 30mph or over?
And yes what
cam, ignition timings,Standard or Automatic, A/C?, and stall?
To help you get started, the temp difference between the top and bottom tanks should be around 30 degrees.
IR gun at the stat house, on the engine side; forget the factory gauges, they lie,lie,lie.
Under 30mph or over?
And yes what
cam, ignition timings,Standard or Automatic, A/C?, and stall?
To help you get started, the temp difference between the top and bottom tanks should be around 30 degrees.
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Tobor
Active Member
273 and I had a beefed up 360 for about 2 years before I spun a bearing.
340 6 pack engine been in about 2 years,
I am guessing radiator is original?
Water pump came off the 360 motor so the bracket to power steering matched up.
Tobor
Active Member
I just put in a thermal fan clutch with the bi-metal spring. Not sure it is working. Never heard the turbine like kick in. May need to bring it in closer to the radiator by a 1/4 inch to get it at the 1 inch recommended spacing. Cam is stock from what the guy who sold me the engine said. I believe the compression is 10 to 1 for the TA 340 6pack.radiator. I just had an electronic ignition installed last year. I am not sure what the guy set it at.
Tobor
Active Member
No AC, no stall,automatic, cam like rest of the motor was rebuilt to factory specs. Ignition timing was just switched over to Mopar electronic set up of a 1970 to match 1970 TA motor.
I was having these intermittent heating issues according to the dash board gauge with the 360 motor. But now it is getting worse. Before, it was i termittent and on the expressway. Now it happens within minutes of dring, all the time.
Oi Vey!
Tobor
Active Member
Thanks for all the feedback and help. Like any other engine problem, there has to be a solution. I just haven’t found it. I want to stay stock as much as possible.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Put an aftermarket gauge on it.
The factory ones are governed by an IVR that barely worked right when it was new
The factory ones are governed by an IVR that barely worked right when it was new
Tobor
Active Member
Any recommendations on a good aftermarket gauge?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Let me re-phrase that;
If you suspect it is running hot,then, put an aftermarket gauge on it.
I can't recommend a gauge Cuz I'm running an electronic, home-made IVR; and the gauge climbs to it's designated position and never since 2000 has is it deviated. So I assume it's working, but IDK that for sure. But I trust my cooling system......... and the 7 psi cap.
See when you have a 15 pound cap, the temp can skyrocket before it blows the pressure relief, and maybe you notice the steam coming out from under the hood...... and maybe you don't. But by then,the engine is already borderline overheated.
IMO the 7 pounder, will blow early, and thus give me plenty of warning........ But that is not my primary reason for running a 7. The low pressure reduces the stress on the entire system, and nothing has yet broken, ruptured, or worn out,since 1999. The 26" A/C rad, in my combo, is easily able to handle the heat, augmented by the aluminum heads radiating copious amounts of heat. The 7 blade steel fan, on the Ford pick-up Thermostatic fan clutch, is, from time to time, reminding me that I do in fact have a cooling system.I run it at 205*F
I have a little Autogauge 8000rpm,270* sweep tach, that I purchased new in 2000. So;Since it seems to be surviving ,I suppose I would recommend their products.
If you suspect it is running hot,then, put an aftermarket gauge on it.
I can't recommend a gauge Cuz I'm running an electronic, home-made IVR; and the gauge climbs to it's designated position and never since 2000 has is it deviated. So I assume it's working, but IDK that for sure. But I trust my cooling system......... and the 7 psi cap.
See when you have a 15 pound cap, the temp can skyrocket before it blows the pressure relief, and maybe you notice the steam coming out from under the hood...... and maybe you don't. But by then,the engine is already borderline overheated.
IMO the 7 pounder, will blow early, and thus give me plenty of warning........ But that is not my primary reason for running a 7. The low pressure reduces the stress on the entire system, and nothing has yet broken, ruptured, or worn out,since 1999. The 26" A/C rad, in my combo, is easily able to handle the heat, augmented by the aluminum heads radiating copious amounts of heat. The 7 blade steel fan, on the Ford pick-up Thermostatic fan clutch, is, from time to time, reminding me that I do in fact have a cooling system.I run it at 205*F
I have a little Autogauge 8000rpm,270* sweep tach, that I purchased new in 2000. So;Since it seems to be surviving ,I suppose I would recommend their products.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
if it is a relatively stock rebuild, and IF all the components are working properly, there should be no reason it's not cooling properly. I didn't see what t-stat you had, brand and temp. Maybe, you could pull it out and test it. Maybe drill an 1/8 " hole in the t-stat flange to help bleed air out of system. I like the aftermarket gauge suggestion, in case the gauge is at fault. You might try adapting a later a-body coolant recovery system to help bleed air out of the system, too. I don't like where you said it is getting worse, that's worrisome.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Here is what I know works: and what is stock-appearing.
-26" A/C rad; oem 1973 Dart,in my case.
-matching factory shroud
-Hood seal
-Hi-flo Milodon aluminum pump. I think it has 7 or maybe 8 vanes,but the important thing about it is the anti-cavitation plate. You can buy those separately to install on your pump. And it has a larger diameter pump shaft, which I thought would be a good idea for all those 7G pulls I was planning on.
-Hi-flo 195 stat ( mine runs 205 on the hotside, always has)
-7-blade large diameter,steel clutch-fan with swept back tips
-Thermostatic fan-clutch; mine is a Ford part
-1:1 ratio drive pulleys. ( mine are underdriven cuz I shift at 7000 plus and it's a manual trans)
-I used to run 100% water with an additive pkg, cuz water is a far superior heat transfer medium than ethylene glycol. But eventually I found that I could run 50/50 and not have to drain the system for winter.
-Coolant recovery tank; mine is also from that 73Dart parts car.
-And the aforementioned 7 pound cap
In addition:
At 10.9Scr with aluminum heads,I run 14* at idle, 28* at 2800, switching to 34* at 3400;and a 22* Vcan that is in real early.This with a 230cam.Cylinder pressure is around 175/180,IIRC
I run a little rich on the low-speed circuit
And fresh,cold air to the carb. This was a very big deal to achieve a consistent idle. And I don't think it doubled the engines power,lol, but.......IDK; it sure pulls harder.
I run 3.55s with a GVOD so 65=2240 rpm. I have run up 65= 3035 with no change.
This engine runs at 205*F by IR gun and never more as far as I can tell. The only time I ever look at the gauge is after a 7000 rpm blast, just to be sure the V-belt is still on the pulleys.
The only way this would not work is if
A) the engine goes into detonation
B) the stat fails closed
C) she has internal cooling system troubles
There are tests for those conditions.
Iron heads will put a little more heat into the cooling system, But the only thing that would should change is the thermostatic fan run-time.
-26" A/C rad; oem 1973 Dart,in my case.
-matching factory shroud
-Hood seal
-Hi-flo Milodon aluminum pump. I think it has 7 or maybe 8 vanes,but the important thing about it is the anti-cavitation plate. You can buy those separately to install on your pump. And it has a larger diameter pump shaft, which I thought would be a good idea for all those 7G pulls I was planning on.
-Hi-flo 195 stat ( mine runs 205 on the hotside, always has)
-7-blade large diameter,steel clutch-fan with swept back tips
-Thermostatic fan-clutch; mine is a Ford part
-1:1 ratio drive pulleys. ( mine are underdriven cuz I shift at 7000 plus and it's a manual trans)
-I used to run 100% water with an additive pkg, cuz water is a far superior heat transfer medium than ethylene glycol. But eventually I found that I could run 50/50 and not have to drain the system for winter.
-Coolant recovery tank; mine is also from that 73Dart parts car.
-And the aforementioned 7 pound cap
In addition:
At 10.9Scr with aluminum heads,I run 14* at idle, 28* at 2800, switching to 34* at 3400;and a 22* Vcan that is in real early.This with a 230cam.Cylinder pressure is around 175/180,IIRC
I run a little rich on the low-speed circuit
And fresh,cold air to the carb. This was a very big deal to achieve a consistent idle. And I don't think it doubled the engines power,lol, but.......IDK; it sure pulls harder.
I run 3.55s with a GVOD so 65=2240 rpm. I have run up 65= 3035 with no change.
This engine runs at 205*F by IR gun and never more as far as I can tell. The only time I ever look at the gauge is after a 7000 rpm blast, just to be sure the V-belt is still on the pulleys.
The only way this would not work is if
A) the engine goes into detonation
B) the stat fails closed
C) she has internal cooling system troubles
There are tests for those conditions.
Iron heads will put a little more heat into the cooling system, But the only thing that would should change is the thermostatic fan run-time.
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