Tad hard to start......pretty sure fuel issue

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aengineguy

aengineguy

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At times I have a bit of a time starting. When cold no problem, couple of good full throttles and alive (temp about 60). I came in after running pretty hard yesterday and it sat about an hour (outside temp about 60). I gave it about a primary full of pump and it cranked and cranked. I gave a full shot and it cranked some more and then started to catch but sounded like it was flooded and finally lit. I drove to some relatives and it sat about 3 hours, gave it a primary full and fired no problem (outside temp about 55).

Do ya think I flooded it after an hour?

408
Holley 750 HP
full Mallory ign. with CD box
10.65 CR
.610 intake with 252 @.050
Eddy 160 gph elec pump in the rear
regulator at 6 1/2 psi mounted on the RF fenderwell split to the holley

I am leaving my computer for the evening and will answer if necessary in the morning.

Thanks all......
 
"Todays fuel." Having said that, didn't sound like it was all that warm.

FIRST eliminate spark as the problem. CHECK you key on/ engine off voltage to the ignition system. Next check cranking spark and take a GOOD look. Have a partner use the KEY to crank the engine. That is IMPORTANT. Check spark with a grounded probe such as a clip lead/ screwdriver held near the top of the coil tower. Should be a nice hot blue snappy spark, 3/8 min, 1/2" or more better long.

Take a critical view of your coil wire and spark plug wires, cap and rotor

NEXT make sure your timing is in good shape. You want lots of initial depending on the cam. Mine is "about same" as a stock 340 and even that likes 15-17* initial.

If that is OK, or you find and fix a problem, THEN attack fuel.

Best things I did on my 67 was

1--went with rear mount electric pump

2--installed heat spacer under carb

3--built vapor return system using the Wix 33040/ 33041 (5/16 and 3/8") fuel filters which have a 1/4" return port with built in orifice.
 
I would first try to start it without any pump on the peddle if it only sat an hour, or at the most a small 1/4 to 1/2 pump. You yourself said it seemed kinda flooded. Or give it a small pump when it's turning over. Hopefully you won't have to go through everything to see if it's a major problem.
 
Initial timing?

IMO, if that doesn't have about 24* it's not close to being right.
 
Thanks for the replies....!

67Dart

When first testing about 5 months ago, ignition seemed like it could weld 1/2" plate. Excellent spark, similar to your procedure. I will look at again. Fuel pump is a good electric, lower than the cell in the trunk, pulling thru 2 parallel Frams. I don't have a spacer or a type of vapor return, but will consider. I typically let the pump run for a second or 2 prior to turning over. However, it is not a bypass system, should have gone with this, dangit!

bigus

Something has been telling me that this may be the case, at least on the primary needle and seat. Carb was new when I built the engine about 6 months ago, but ya never know. Going to look at harder.

Louie

I am still trying different procedures in starting. Since Oct of last year I have probably only started the thing 30 times at different temps, different time durations between starts, etc.

Cracked
Your correct, it is a timing hog. I am currently at 24 initial with 10 mechanical. I would imagine I could even go a little further.
 
You need to put the regulator after the carb and run a return from the regulator back to the tank. I am having the same problem. The way you could test is turn the pump off before you shut off the car. Then start the car before you turn on the pump.

What happens with todays fuel is it heats up at the carb and doesn't allow the needle to keep the carb. from over filling. The return will allow a constant flow of cool fuel and the carb will work properly.

Like I said my car does exactly the same thing. My freinds did the same and he corrected it the way I mentioned above.

You can see in the pics below that I even replaced my carb. My fuel line allows the regulator after the carb. I do not have the return hooked up on these pics but I will this year. the regulator will be placed in the line after the carb to keep the fuel moving and not dead end at the carb
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The way you could test is turn the pump off before you shut off the car.
Click to expand...
that's how I fixed my warm-start problems (for the most part, anyways).
I turn the pump off and let the car run out of gas- when I go to start it, I turn the pump on and it usually fires right up.
 
Sounds like maybe you gas is boiling.I had this same problem on a 383 Fury.Cold easy start,let it sit 3 hours easy start,shut it off and start it right back up easy start,let it sit 10-60 minutes and very hard to start.Run it let it sit a few minutes and put your ear up to the carb if the gas is boiling you will hear it.I made sure my gas lines were away from everything hot,and put a spacer under the car,this fixed it.
 
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