Rob
Well-Known Member
Jack
Single Stage is cheaper than base/clear so that's in your favour, make sure it is Urethane not Acrylic Enamel, just a better quality paint.
Typically red costs more so I'm a bit surprised that flyboy got it for the same price but it's been known to happen, hopefully it will happen for you too.
Depending on the brand of paint costs also vary, Dupont is more expensive than say a discount brand like Kirker.
If you only have the one original coat of paint on it you don't need to strip it which saves on the cost.
All rust taken care of, bonus :thumbup:
I would seal the whole car not just the quarters, you don't necessarily have too but I think it's a good idea when you're going over a completely different type of paint system and you have a uniform color to shoot over which never hurts.
You need to fix and fill all the little dings and dents which is easy enough but as far as getting it really straight you have to prime, guidecoat and block until you don't have any low spots, the more you do this the straighter the car will be, this can be one of the biggest costs.
Engine bay is painted, bonus :thumbup:
Jambs need to be painted, pain in the arse.
Having the car mostly dissassembled makes for a much better paint job :thumbup:
It sounds like you have taken care of a lot of the work which reduces costs.
The point I was trying to make is there is a lot of work involved in a good paint job on an old car. If you do a lot of it yourself you save on labour although you still need the material. You can't just prime and paint and get good results unless the car is dead straight to start with. If you do everything yourself like flyboy suggested and then just roll it over to the shop for the final splashing of paint then needless to say it won't cost an arm and a leg. Also labour costs vary by region so maybe you can get a better deal than say I can, that I don't know. Most people don't consider all the "other" costs, it isn't just a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of paint, there's high build primer, sandpaper in may grits, masking tape, paper to mask off with, degreaser, tack cloths, gun wash, etc., it all adds up if you want a quailty job. We all probably have a different view of what makes a good daily driver paint job, personally I still want it to look really good. Good luck, post some pics.
Single Stage is cheaper than base/clear so that's in your favour, make sure it is Urethane not Acrylic Enamel, just a better quality paint.
Typically red costs more so I'm a bit surprised that flyboy got it for the same price but it's been known to happen, hopefully it will happen for you too.
Depending on the brand of paint costs also vary, Dupont is more expensive than say a discount brand like Kirker.
If you only have the one original coat of paint on it you don't need to strip it which saves on the cost.
All rust taken care of, bonus :thumbup:
I would seal the whole car not just the quarters, you don't necessarily have too but I think it's a good idea when you're going over a completely different type of paint system and you have a uniform color to shoot over which never hurts.
You need to fix and fill all the little dings and dents which is easy enough but as far as getting it really straight you have to prime, guidecoat and block until you don't have any low spots, the more you do this the straighter the car will be, this can be one of the biggest costs.
Engine bay is painted, bonus :thumbup:
Jambs need to be painted, pain in the arse.
Having the car mostly dissassembled makes for a much better paint job :thumbup:
It sounds like you have taken care of a lot of the work which reduces costs.
The point I was trying to make is there is a lot of work involved in a good paint job on an old car. If you do a lot of it yourself you save on labour although you still need the material. You can't just prime and paint and get good results unless the car is dead straight to start with. If you do everything yourself like flyboy suggested and then just roll it over to the shop for the final splashing of paint then needless to say it won't cost an arm and a leg. Also labour costs vary by region so maybe you can get a better deal than say I can, that I don't know. Most people don't consider all the "other" costs, it isn't just a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of paint, there's high build primer, sandpaper in may grits, masking tape, paper to mask off with, degreaser, tack cloths, gun wash, etc., it all adds up if you want a quailty job. We all probably have a different view of what makes a good daily driver paint job, personally I still want it to look really good. Good luck, post some pics.
