Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

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Dave 74 Dart said:
Ok, YOU know he has you on ignore and your spouting off / swearing and now ranting to us??? If I give advice and it's not used , I just carry on with my life. Some people need to "live and learn" on their own...sometimes the hard way. Move on to another thread. @yellow rose
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Here's some advice. If Jpar would keep my name out of HIS mouth I would leave it be.

Why don't you add something to this thread as I have, or shut up and move on @Dave 74 Dart.

You need to take some of your own medicine.

I post what I do because people other than Jpar read these threads.
 
yellow rose said:
Here's some advice. If Jpar would keep my name out of HIS mouth I would leave it be.

Why don't you add something to this thread as I have, or shut up and move on @Dave 74 Dart.

You need to take some of your own medicine.

I post what I do because people other than Jpar read these threads.
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Stop instigating. STFU.
You are single-handedly ruining the thread. You are one man train wreck.
 
Light er brake rotors
Lighter caliper.
Lighter wheels
Lighter drive shaft
ALL make a car go faster!!!
So why wouldn’t a lighter flywheel make any car faster on the track.
This is just a auto guy speaking out of turn......I Guess???
 
Well I tell ya what, I have a Ram billet steel flywheel, about 28 pounds I recon. I’ll weigh it to get accurate number. I’m gonna try one of those 12 pound aluminum flywheels. I’ma rev the **** outov it too. LOL.
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
Haha, now I have to shut up?? At least I don't come across as a raving lunatic. I'll be the bigger person and move on to another thread .
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Disagreeing who's telling you to shut up? It looks like there's people out here that I have blocked that are ruining the thread..
Is that raving lunatic somehow mucking up my thread and making people talk about aluminum flywheels? This is about the clutch Tamer not aluminum flywheels....
 
It's all good. I'm just reading and learning. I thought that people with experience/ knowledge say their piece; then the OP takes that info and decides what they want to do with it. Once a person gets pissed because they don't agree with another's post, they should just move on...
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
It's all good. I'm just reading and learning. I thought that people with experience/ knowledge say their piece; then the OP takes that info and decides what they want to do with it. Once a person gets pissed because they don't agree with another's post, they should just move on...
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I jus put these useless agitators on ignore. I would like to learn about my car and enjoy my hobby not listen to the ravings of lunatics...
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
It's all good. I'm just reading and learning. I thought that people with experience/ knowledge say their piece; then the OP takes that info and decides what they want to do with it. Once a person gets pissed because they don't agree with another's post, they should just move on...
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I see reading isn't your strong point. You can disagree all you want.
So let's clear some things up.

Jpar doesn't get to say who posts in what thread. God he isn't. I could say the sky is blue and Jpar would disagree.
Second, other people read these threads. If I don't answer the idiotic things people post (things like...use a heavy flywheel and leave at the most RPM just for starters) who will? Since I have done it, and still do, then I can say that's ignorant.
Third, Jpar is proving himself a liar, just like the people he aligns himself with on this forum. He says I don't have a car. That's a lie. I do. That I never race. That's a lie. I have. I may never again. And I've posted why more than once.
Third, Jpar has always told his side of the "race" story. I haven't said anything, nor will I. So he has his sycophant followers who live off his every word as to what happened to the "Stroker VS X block race". This has caused some to assume things that aren't true. I'll let them alone with their assumption.
Fourth, I've seen enough carnage across the decades to know, for a fact, what happens in a clutch car. BTDT. I've also watched the limited number of sticks get even less, because of idiotic ideas of clutch tuning. The cost of breaking parts is only a small part of the picture. Is the loss of time repairing broken stuff that need not break. It's the cost to get to and from the track, gate fees and such that triple and even quadruple costs. As an engine builder, those are customers. Customers who could be updating their engines, or chassis or whatever else. Instead, they break parts, spend bad money after bad money and eventually either give up the stick or quit. Some do both. Some convert the car to an automatic and then quit.

Seen it more times than I can count.

So you see, there is much more to the story than you may know. Sometimes, what looks like a rose is really a turd with lipstick.
 
Well, that was a much more civilized response from someone who says that he has done it all. Congratulations YR. Now I'll get back to reading. Thank you for all the pertinent info.
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
Well, that was a much more civilized response from someone who says that he has done it all. Congratulations YR. Now I'll get back to reading. Thank you for all the pertinent info.
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Do I need to start another thread so we can discuss the clutch tamer? Has the agitator change this into something else? Is there any reason he can't start a thread about whatever he's talking about? Well the natural answer is no. Nobody would be interested. The only thing he's interested in doing is introducing a foreign subject so he can keep things agitated...
Here let me see if I can Ward him away... SNOWMOBILE, TIME SLIP,... THESE ARE HIS KRYPTONITE WORDS....
Honestly I'm not curious about anyting he says because it's all rubbish but my curiosity wants a running count of how many times he's name dropped some famous Racers name, how many times has he had to go back and consult his notes, how many times he's called people names when they didn't agree with what he said, how many times did he pick pepper out of poop, or step over a donut to pick up a turd, or one of his other disgusting analogies....
The good thing we all have cars and work on them, show them, drive them and race them, and this forum and he only has the Forum....
So if you put him on ignore your able to take everything away from him....
 
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My apologies for side tracking your thread. I'll sit on my porch reading and gaining info to help my son and for when I get some extra$ to start on my sport. I have a hard time just "sitting " staying quiet when someone starts crapping on another person ; I've done this my whole life. Standing in a line to get coffee and someone belittles the cashier...I gotta say something. My face wishes my mouth would just stay quiet. Perhaps a mod can erase this crap to clean up your thread. @toolmanmike
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
My apologies for side tracking your thread. I'll sit on my porch reading and gaining info to help my son and for when I get some extra$ to start on my sport. I have a hard time just "sitting " staying quiet when someone starts crapping on another person ; I've done this my whole life. Standing in a line to get coffee and someone belittles the cashier...I gotta say something. My face wishes my mouth would just stay quiet. Perhaps a mod can erase this crap to clean up your thread. @toolmanmike
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I hope toolanMike can just come in here and erase everything Yellow Rose said because if you're able to read this with him blocked out there's no arguments whatsoever. Unfortunately I also had to put rumblefish 360 on block as well. That one was unfortunate because I really think he has real great content lots of times but the way he flips out and attacks people from from time to time I'm just done with.
please stay tuned because me personally this is about the last time I'm going to address this. With any good luck I'll have some parts here that I can take pictures of and start taking pictures of mounting it. Then I can give some serious feedback with Real Time Slips and stuff like that. If you'd like I could start out with a couple times slips from a couple tracks this year and maybe we can see if I pick up anything?
 
Well........someone might have a alu flywheel and could us this info.
As well as tamer
I won’t race a stick, but found it interesting of the ideas out there and the theories behind them.
No opinions, just tamer user, got it! Over and out
 
Cudafever said:
Well........someone might have a alu flywheel and could us this info.
As well as tamer
I won’t race a stick, but found it interesting of the ideas out there and the theories behind them.
No opinions, just tamer user, got it! Over and out
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When you said I won't race a stick it sounded to me like you won't race against a car with a stick shift LOL...:poke:

I would be very interested if someone started a thread about aluminum flywheels and there use in drag racing and other uses as well.
Me, I'm having a great time discussing the possibilitys.
Anyways I hope you're not over and out I sure do appreciate any ideas you might have...:thumbsup:
 
j par said:
I hope toolanMike can just come in here and erase everything Yellow Rose said because if you're able to read this with him blocked out there's no arguments whatsoever. Unfortunately I also had to put rumblefish 360 on block as well. That one was unfortunate because I really think he has real great content lots of times but the way he flips out and attacks people from from time to time I'm just done with.
please stay tuned because me personally this is about the last time I'm going to address this. With any good luck I'll have some parts here that I can take pictures of and start taking pictures of mounting it. Then I can give some serious feedback with Real Time Slips and stuff like that. If you'd like I could start out with a couple times slips from a couple tracks this year and maybe we can see if I pick up anything?
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LOL. Why erase what I posted? Am I wrong? You've got issues. Get therapy.

And BTW, if you use the disc you have, and slip it enough to work, you'll be lucky to get 6 runs out of it. That materiel isn't designed to slip.

Make sure this is erased too, because I have no experience in this.
 
Dave 74 Dart said:
My apologies for side tracking your thread. I'll sit on my porch reading and gaining info to help my son and for when I get some extra$ to start on my sport. I have a hard time just "sitting " staying quiet when someone starts crapping on another person ; I've done this my whole life. Standing in a line to get coffee and someone belittles the cashier...I gotta say something. My face wishes my mouth would just stay quiet. Perhaps a mod can erase this crap to clean up your thread. @toolmanmike
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Did you happen to read all the crap he says to and about me? Maybe you should have a look. You might think differently.

He has a hardon for me. Because he can't refute what I say and he's butt hurt over it. So the answer is remove what I say.

Wow.
 
yellow rose said:
In what world is more FW weight better? I damn sure isn't a race car. Maybe a semi truck. Maybe a 5000 pound, low HP car that never sees anything above 3500 RPM. Maybe.

There isn't one, not ONE competent clutch guy, transmission guy, chassis guy, tire guy, shock guy or just general knowledge guy who will tell you adding rotational inertia is a good thing. It breaks parts. It's even harder to manage, regardless of method you chose to do it.

Quite frankly, it's ******* STUPID to tell guys who are chassis and tire limited to add FW weight. You either deal with it by taking clutch out of it, or changing the timer on the CT.

Other than you, I can think of no one I know of who says add FW weight. Not one. To even argue the point is ridiculous. I would mention the Pro Stock and Comp guys, but then I'd hear the "I'm not racing Pro Stock" nonsense I always hear. The clutch I run today WAS Pro Stock in the 1980's. This isn't new. So I'll say I don't know a single, solitary guy running Stock or Super Stock with sticks who use heavy flywheel. Not one. Not a single one. Those guys can run what they want. The exception is those classes (some of which you have outlined above) who by rules have to run a clutch that isn't adjustable. That's it.


I'll tell you Grant, I'd send people your way if you didn't say crazy crap like this. I know there are guys out there, like Jpar who either don't want to deal with an adjustable clutch, or guys who can't afford one, and I'd send them you way. But you have issues like FW weight I just can't get around. And, telling people you have to adjust the clutch for the street and the track. You don't. I didn't have an adjustable pressure plate for years. I never ran over 1000 pounds of base load (most of the time I was at between 600-700), didn't use counter weight and left at 7-7500 with 14x32 tires and on,y drove through the clutch once. And that was my bad in a burn out.

We have to stop, as a group telling people dumb things. I've been a stick guy since I was a kid. There aren't many left, just because of dumb advice and wrong headed thinking. Junk clutches kill parts. Junk clutches with heavy flyweels kills parts faster and have slower time slips.

Hopefully, for the open minded stick guys out there, they can learn something from this thread. Here what they SHOULD learn.

You can be competitive with a stick.
A junk clutch is a junk clutch.
Flywheel weight is bad.
You need to control your clutch lock up.
If you aren't willing to learn how to tune a clutch, or can't afford a good one, then the Clutch Tamer is about the only option you have, other than going slow, beating the car to death and killing parts.
There is zero logic in using a sintered iron disc and a Clutch Tamer. If you are going to use a sintered iron disc, just pay the extra money for the adjustable pressure plate.
You should be using an aluminum flywheel either way.
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Here's the part that seems to fly over your head- Never did I say heavier flywheel is quicker, the point i'm making is that flywheel weight isn't a handicap when it makes the process more efficient. You say get the lightest flywheel you can find, I say you can get a flywheel that's too lite.

One thing a flywheel does is act as a heat sink for the clutch disc, as does the pressure plate ring. It's a given that something needs to slip for a bit or you will either bog the engine, blow the tires off, or break parts. If part of your launch plan includes controlled wheelspeed, some of that slipping duty is shared by both the clutch and the tires. Because in this case the clutch doesn't have to do all the slipping that's needed, you can get away with a smaller/lighter flywheel and clutch. And given that most all clutch development in the past for cars like ours have included wheel speed as part of their launch plan, we now have flywheels and clutches that are too lite to handle the thermal load of doing all the slipping necessary by themselves.

Ever see one of Rob Youngblood's flywheels? Pretty much the minimum amount of mass there to get the job done that it was designed for, and one thing that they are not designed for is to do ALL the slipping that's required for a dead hook radial friendly launch. Same goes for the typical aluminum flywheel with a bolt-in "heat shield". In that case you have two different materials that expand at different rates. They may be flat at room temp, but the shield gains temp quicker than it can pass it onto the aluminum. At some point as temps rise the shield begins to warp, which causes it to lose intimate contact with the aluminum, which in-turn further reduces the aluminum's ability to act as a heat sink. It's a downward spiral that damages the clutch. Thicker heat shields help reduce the warping, so do segmented inserts. Something that eliminates the warping altogether is one piece flywheels with enough mass to control the temperature rise. Since an aluminum flywheel without an insert isn't really practical, steel becomes a simple effective solution.

You can run a sintered iron disc with a 'tamer, I have for years. When you run radials, it makes logical sense. I currently have a Ram dual friction disc in the car just to gather some data, seems to be working with the radials. It's seen 8600 quite a bit, organic side hasn't objected yet. Steel flywheel, nod iron pressure ring.

Grant
 
weedburner said:
Here's the part that seems to fly over your head- Never did I say heavier flywheel is quicker, the point i'm making is that flywheel weight isn't a handicap when it makes the process more efficient. You say get the lightest flywheel you can find, I say you can get a flywheel that's too lite.

One thing a flywheel does is act as a heat sink for the clutch disc, as does the pressure plate ring. It's a given that something needs to slip for a bit or you will either bog the engine, blow the tires off, or break parts. If part of your launch plan includes controlled wheelspeed, some of that slipping duty is shared by both the clutch and the tires. Because in this case the clutch doesn't have to do all the slipping that's needed, you can get away with a smaller/lighter flywheel and clutch. And given that most all clutch development in the past for cars like ours have included wheel speed as part of their launch plan, we now have flywheels and clutches that are too lite to handle the thermal load of doing all the slipping necessary by themselves.

Ever see one of Rob Youngblood's flywheels? Pretty much the minimum amount of mass there to get the job done that it was designed for, and one thing that they are not designed for is to do ALL the slipping that's required for a dead hook radial friendly launch. Same goes for the typical aluminum flywheel with a bolt-in "heat shield". In that case you have two different materials that expand at different rates. They may be flat at room temp, but the shield gains temp quicker than it can pass it onto the aluminum. At some point as temps rise the shield begins to warp, which causes it to lose intimate contact with the aluminum, which in-turn further reduces the aluminum's ability to act as a heat sink. It's a downward spiral that damages the clutch. Thicker heat shields help reduce the warping, so do segmented inserts. Something that eliminates the warping altogether is one piece flywheels with enough mass to control the temperature rise. Since an aluminum flywheel without an insert isn't really practical, steel becomes a simple effective solution.

You can run a sintered iron disc with a 'tamer, I have for years. When you run radials, it makes logical sense. I currently have a Ram dual friction disc in the car just to gather some data, seems to be working with the radials. It's seen 8600 quite a bit, organic side hasn't objected yet. Steel flywheel, nod iron pressure ring.

Grant
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This "sintered iron disc", I'm probably just going to have to look up on your website and make some kind of decision. I know in my application I need a 10 and a half inch disc with 23 spline. I haven't one problem changing a disc or anything like that. I doubt if I'll invest in anything expensive right away until I at least trash mine...
 
Another question would it be possible or beneficial in any way for this to be used only on the initial hit? Being able to disable it once you're in first gear?
 
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