With sealant or teflon tape, the torque spec ain't much more than "snug".
Temp sender not working?
- Thread starter Righty
- Start date
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Well I've ordered another one, so this ones going in finger tight! My only other thought at this stage is do i have an airlock preventing the sender sitting in the coolant, long shot but worth spending a bit of time eliminating, so I'm going to top up the system with the sender removed so any air in the manifold can escape from the hole. Then when the senders in I'm going to get a funnel on it and see if there's any more air I can shift.
Yeah as much as anything I just want to take advantage of having the sender out to make sure I have bled the system of air, I only managed to get 10l of coolant in when I switched the radiator, even without the heater and lines that’s always concerned me a bit.
MILO
Well-Known Member
Does it look like this one
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1969 PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA Coolant Temperature Sensors - In Stock Filter Options - Vendor In Stock Filter Options | Summit Racing
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Yes, the TS17, I’ll have a stockpile of them soon.
So a bump on the thread, the new sender arrived and I finally got time to fit it. Reading 280ohms to the block from the stud on a cool engine and 0ohms from the body to the block. While I had it out I released the rad cap a bit to let some coolant gush out to make sure there wasn’t an air pocket there. Ran the engine for a quarter hour with a no leak funnel in the rad to bled any air I could out of the hoses.
Anyway no movement at all on the gauge. So I know I’ve got a good sender (although I should probably do some resistance checks when the engine is warm,) and I know there’s ground for the sender and I know the gauge responds to grounding the wire to the block. I suppose I need to check the wiring from the sender to the gauge next, maybe just because the gauge responds to being grounded doesn’t mean it hasn’t got an issue of some kind.
Anyway no movement at all on the gauge. So I know I’ve got a good sender (although I should probably do some resistance checks when the engine is warm,) and I know there’s ground for the sender and I know the gauge responds to grounding the wire to the block. I suppose I need to check the wiring from the sender to the gauge next, maybe just because the gauge responds to being grounded doesn’t mean it hasn’t got an issue of some kind.
I have a question, I have to do a bit of distance in the car in the next few weeks, I probably wont have a chance to troubleshoot this properly before the, does anyone have any ideas for an aftermarket temp gauge that will work with the TS17 sender or have its own sender that will fit the manifold, just as a temporary measure.
Vinny
Well-Known Member
How is the ground from the block to the body??
It’s good, I checked the continuity of the manifold, the block etc. I’m wondering if maybe there is a low voltage or high resistance issue somewhere in the circuit so there isn’t enough voltage flowing to move the needle once the sender is in the circuit. So when there’s no resistance - wire from gauge grounded to block there’s just enough current and the the needle moves but once the sender is in the circuit there’s not a strong enough current flowing to move the needle even when the senders resistance drops. It’s the only thing I can think of, but I wouldn’t have a clue what would cause it.
I have an aftermarket gauge hooked up on mine even though the factory gauges work. It’s nice to have a little more precision on the actual temperature.
I have mine in the top radiator hose. I know there are a lot of folks who don’t like that because it won’t read if you run out of coolant. But I think it is cool because I can watch the thermostat cycle.
My stock gauge can tell me if I run out of coolant.
I have mine in the top radiator hose. I know there are a lot of folks who don’t like that because it won’t read if you run out of coolant. But I think it is cool because I can watch the thermostat cycle.
My stock gauge can tell me if I run out of coolant.
I think because the factory gauge isn’t working I’ll just pop the new sender in the same place as the original, I’m going to get a Din unit that holds 3 2” gauges and put it where the 1990s tape player is, that will give me a place for a tacho, oil pressure and coolant temp.
I probably should have mentioned this before, I can fill the tank as much as possible at the pump until the pump cuts out but my fuel gauge only ever goes to just over half way full, I had just assumed this was a mechanical issue with the sender float or something. But with what’s going on with the coolant gauge, could there be something going on that is to do with how much resistance there is in the voltage regulator that is limiting how much current is flowing through the gauge circuits when the resistance changes in the fuel sender and temp sender?
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