Wouldn't the heat be the ignition system's wattage (volts and current) ?I said it is 'the heat in the spark' that ignites the mixture.
Wouldn't the heat be the ignition system's wattage (volts and current) ?I said it is 'the heat in the spark' that ignites the mixture.
The second diagram is what saved me last weekend. The start wire on the secondary side of the ballast is very important. It saves you jumping the box off the battery to get it started. A 5 post ECU on a 4 post system sure didn't help.Instructions. Hopefully they’ll be big enough to read.
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It's just another BS LIE!The other issue is did it ever make it to the track or is it just another dyno queen?
Since some nice folks won’t question DV I will.
Did they test ANY other ignition against the HEI?
Did he post the plug gap he used on this 500 hp 800 hp engine?
Or do we just take DV at his word? I mean this guy has tested more cams than Warren Johnson and could probably teach WJ a thing or three about Pro Stock engine cam timing.
LMAO!Fixed.
Like this?Try this.
Go to a drag strip running nostalgia fuel Funny Cars.
See what they have for ignition. Take a photo of ANY fuel burner running an HEI.
As I posted above, I’d bet everything a 3 amp mag would make more power on the pretend 800 hp Vizard engine above, but we will never know because DV is a one trick pony.
Or sparkle pony? No wait. He'd have to be a chick for that. Well hold on......in this day and age he might be?Try this.
Go to a drag strip running nostalgia fuel Funny Cars.
See what they have for ignition. Take a photo of ANY fuel burner running an HEI.
As I posted above, I’d bet everything a 3 amp mag would make more power on the pretend 800 hp Vizard engine above, but we will never know because DV is a one trick pony.
He does appears to be a little light in the loafers.Or sparkle pony? No wait. He'd have to be a chick for that. Well hold on......in this day and age he might be?

I've seen some pics where he appears to have some titties too. Niceuns. lolHe does appears to be a little light in the loafers.![]()
I'm sure the MSD is all computerized and all that. Make sure you have an extra control box in the trailer!That’s an MSD mag but there is a guy not far from me running a single 5 amp Mallory mag on fuel.
He passed on the HEI for that piece of **** mag. What a dumb *** he is.

Tony has a switch on his dual point distributor that can advance/de-advance timing (I believe 4*) He does it to pull timing out when he hits the NOS@Newbomb Turk , This all has me wondering about the Lean Burn dual pickup distributors. Have you ever tested the advance difference between the 2 pickups? Were they a way to compensate for the slew rate in the system? If so, could a guy use an rpm switch to turn on the earlier firing pickup to put in more timing a little before peak power rpm?
This is what I always say to my customers.Timing without rpm means nothing. Or close enough to nothing!
So, what is the best economical ignition that's stable at 6500-7g? I have the grid with a 7al in one car, but my street ride uses the mopar oem distributor with an orange box. It always seemed like it didn't want to pull past 5800...yet its got deep enough gears and plenty of camshaft duration.Very possible. As RRR said above there are times in high gear you want to pull some timing out but you have to test for that.
I can’t say all but most every engine wants less timing at peak torque and more timing at peak power. Which is the opposite of what happens when the box retards and you don’t know it’s doing it.
My mentor told me this story. And it’s true. They learned two important things.
They had one of the very first GM Magna Pulse ignitions. And he and two others were all involved in a Modified Production car.
He was close to running the National record and they all thought the new ignition could put him closer to running on or even setting the record. So they install the ignition, one of the guys grabs his timing light, and they set the timing as it was before with just the points.
They go to the track with the owner and it wouldn’t pull the hat off your head. They couldn’t figure it out.
Back at the shop, a different guy grabs HIS timing light and the timing is off several degrees. Now you have three guys pointing fingers at each other, claiming the other two can’t use a timing light!!
One of them gets the big idea to grab all three timing lights out and hook them up. And all three read differently. By several degrees both advanced and retarded.
That was lesson 1.
Then they got the bright idea to put the distributor and ignition on the test bench just like it runs in the car. And they learned what I’ve been showing in these videos. It had a bunch of retard in it, and the engine didn’t want the timing retarded.
Lesson 1 is all these ignition systems retard with RPM and they are all different even between the same part numbers and date of manufacture.
That’s lesson 2. It’s still true today.
Guys are giving up power by not checking this and accounting for it.
I hate giving up horsepower more than I hate ear aches and watered gin. And I hate both of those.
Everyone should find a guy local to them with a test bench and have them hook the ignition up just like it is in the car and test it.
IMO it’s worth every penny.
So, what is the best economical ignition that's stable at 6500-7g? I have the grid with a 7al in one car, but my street ride uses the mopar oem distributor with an orange box. It always seemed like it didn't want to pull past 5800...yet its got deep enough gears and plenty of camshaft duration.
Look in the mirror. All the retard you could ask for. lolHey someone to test your entire ignition system to see how much retard there is.
I’ve seen boxes that start retarding at 2k. If you don’t account for that you can lose power really quick.
So, while "tuning" the van..... I brought the RPM's up to shift point (about 5000 rpms) and it didn't retard anything. This has the 4-pin HEI system.
the curve was all in about 3800-4000 rpm's. My wife was increasing the engine rpm's slowly, while i was trying to see around corners at the timing marks and the RPM's on the timing light. Got it all in and picked up more rpm's to see if it retarded, and then she cracked it quick and the mark didn't move but I couldn't capture what that rpm peaked. Again, very tough on the van to see the marks and look at the light rpm's. What I can tell you is it did not retard after the curve was in and to the above rpm point she cracked it to. I almost needed a 3rd person to watch the timing light rpm's while I watched the marks while she worked the throttle..... vansBecause the curve was in before 5000 rpm?
Look in the mirror. All the retard you could ask for. lol
the curve was all in about 3800-4000 rpm's. My wife was increasing the engine rpm's slowly, while i was trying to see around corners at the timing marks and the RPM's on the timing light. Got it all in and picked up more rpm's to see if it retarded, and then she cracked it quick and the mark didn't move but I couldn't capture what that rpm peaked. Again, very tough on the van to see the marks and look at the light rpm's. What I can tell you is it did not retard after the curve was in and to the above rpm point she cracked it to. I almost needed a 3rd person to watch the timing light rpm's while I watched the marks while she worked the throttle..... vans![]()
I may get a 3rd person here and get more exact on the rpm's. But I feel we got a really good picture of the song it's singing.
This is with a stock Chrysler distributor. I "think" I left the springs alone, but man, I did that swap about 4-5 years ago??Is that with a stock Chrysler distributor? Are the springs stock?
This is with a stock Chrysler distributor. I "think" I left the springs alone, but man, I did that swap about 4-5 years ago??
That information on the springs may be in this video, I'll have to watch it and see what I did... LOL
What I have noticed on locked hei distributors on a running engine is that most if not nearly all the retard occurs below about 5000 rpm. This is part of the reason we have our customers set their timing at 5000 rpm on 602 crate motors. There are always exceptions.the curve was all in about 3800-4000 rpm's. My wife was increasing the engine rpm's slowly, while i was trying to see around corners at the timing marks and the RPM's on the timing light. Got it all in and picked up more rpm's to see if it retarded, and then she cracked it quick and the mark didn't move but I couldn't capture what that rpm peaked. Again, very tough on the van to see the marks and look at the light rpm's. What I can tell you is it did not retard after the curve was in and to the above rpm point she cracked it to. I almost needed a 3rd person to watch the timing light rpm's while I watched the marks while she worked the throttle..... vans
I may get a 3rd person here and get more exact on the rpm's. But I feel we got a really good picture of the song it's singing.
I plan to redo this test, but better set up to capture the RPM's and the curve. More accurate so to speak.What I have noticed on locked hei distributors on a running engine is that most if not nearly all the retard occurs below about 5000 rpm. This is part of the reason we have our customers set their timing at 5000 rpm on 602 crate motors. There are always exceptions.
If you have a way figured out to record a timing light let me know how you do it. When ever I try that with my phone it skips a lot of the flashes.