the Dart stalled a few times while in gear at idle

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kiss

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The Dart has been running so good since the engine rebuild that this is a head-scratcher. A little bit of info -- 360/727 stock rebuild nothing high performance. Manual choke (which is open all the way except for when I first start it up in the morning). Mechanical fuel pump. New Edelbrock 600 AFB that I put on with the rebuilt engine. Engine has maybe 5k on it since the rebuild. Manual brakes. New fuel tank, NOS sending unit, fuel filter, rubber lines, and blew out the hard lines maybe 1k miles ago. Oil changed maybe 500 miles ago. I had the top off the Edelbrock about 2k miles ago to check float levels which were fine, blew out passages and put it back on. Ignition is HEI 4-pin module, E-core coil, distributor from @TrailBeast (which has been fantastic by the way)

A couple weeks ago I was driving the Dart last week around town and it stalled on me sitting at a red light for like 20 seconds or so, no long. Put the car in park, turned key, fired right up was fine the rest of the drive and since then. Didn't have to pump gas or let it crank long or anything -- it fired right up.

Last week same thing happened 1 time.

Today I drove the car this morning to do some errands and it ran great as usual. Then this evening we go out to dinner, car stalls sitting at a red light for a couple mins. Turn key fires right up. On the way back sitting at a red light again but not for long, it stalls, fires right up. I get off the highway, driving down a side street about 30 mph, then im coasting to a red light with foot off the gas, get close to the red light it stalls again. Turn key fires right up. So stalled once on the way to dinner twice on the way back.

After I got home I looked around and there wasn't any abnormal gas smell or gas everywhere. Checked the oil and the level looked fine. After the car cooled down I pulled the air cleaner for a better visual check and no sign of gas stains or anything. Popped off the distributor cap and it looked clean inside, nothing out of the ordinary, I wiped off the rotor with a rag and nothing abnormal with that either.

I take this car on short drives around town only, and I only drive it a few times a week. One thing I think to myself sometimes when driving is the idle does sound a little low. Moving forward I am going to bump up the idle a little bit.

Other than that I'm not sure what I should do or check, any suggestions? The car fires right up after stalling so I imagine it's maintaining fuel pressure? If it was running out of gas I would assume it would need to crank a few times. If it was flooding I'd imagine there would be gas stains around the base of the carburetor or i'd smell strong gas smell after turning it off. Also, flooding would probably make for a hard re-start.

While typing this the only other thing that comes to mind is HEI module failing possibly? But why would it fail only at idle? Why not at cruise? And why does it start right back up after failing (assuming it did fail)?

EDIT: also this is all on the same tank of gas. Car is at like 1/3 tank. I will fill it up with gas because maybe bad gas?
 
The Dart has been running so good since the engine rebuild that this is a head-scratcher. A little bit of info -- 360/727 stock rebuild nothing high performance. Manual choke (which is open all the way except for when I first start it up in the morning). Mechanical fuel pump. New Edelbrock 600 AFB that I put on with the rebuilt engine. Engine has maybe 5k on it since the rebuild. Manual brakes. New fuel tank, NOS sending unit, fuel filter, rubber lines, and blew out the hard lines maybe 1k miles ago. Oil changed maybe 500 miles ago. I had the top off the Edelbrock about 2k miles ago to check float levels which were fine, blew out passages and put it back on. Ignition is HEI 4-pin module, E-core coil, distributor from @TrailBeast (which has been fantastic by the way)

A couple weeks ago I was driving the Dart last week around town and it stalled on me sitting at a red light for like 20 seconds or so, no long. Put the car in park, turned key, fired right up was fine the rest of the drive and since then. Didn't have to pump gas or let it crank long or anything -- it fired right up.

Last week same thing happened 1 time.

Today I drove the car this morning to do some errands and it ran great as usual. Then this evening we go out to dinner, car stalls sitting at a red light for a couple mins. Turn key fires right up. On the way back sitting at a red light again but not for long, it stalls, fires right up. I get off the highway, driving down a side street about 30 mph, then im coasting to a red light with foot off the gas, get close to the red light it stalls again. Turn key fires right up. So stalled once on the way to dinner twice on the way back.

After I got home I looked around and there wasn't any abnormal gas smell or gas everywhere. Checked the oil and the level looked fine. After the car cooled down I pulled the air cleaner for a better visual check and no sign of gas stains or anything. Popped off the distributor cap and it looked clean inside, nothing out of the ordinary, I wiped off the rotor with a rag and nothing abnormal with that either.

I take this car on short drives around town only, and I only drive it a few times a week. One thing I think to myself sometimes when driving is the idle does sound a little low. Moving forward I am going to bump up the idle a little bit.

Other than that I'm not sure what I should do or check, any suggestions? The car fires right up after stalling so I imagine it's maintaining fuel pressure? If it was running out of gas I would assume it would need to crank a few times. If it was flooding I'd imagine there would be gas stains around the base of the carburetor or i'd smell strong gas smell after turning it off. Also, flooding would probably make for a hard re-start.

While typing this the only other thing that comes to mind is HEI module failing possibly? But why would it fail only at idle? Why not at cruise? And why does it start right back up after failing (assuming it did fail)?

EDIT: also this is all on the same tank of gas. Car is at like 1/3 tank. I will fill it up with gas because maybe bad gas?

A couple of thoughts.
When it dies, does it pop, sputter or hesitate at all when it starts back up again?
Did you check and set the reluctor/pickup gap in that distributor when you put it in.

Also closely check all your connectors for your HEI module.
Depending on your timing it may very well be the idle is too low.
 
A couple of thoughts.
When it dies, does it pop, sputter or hesitate at all when it starts back up again?
Did you check and set the reluctor/pickup gap in that distributor when you put it in.

Also closely check all your connectors for your HEI module.
Depending on your timing it may very well be the idle is too low.
When it dies, it just dies. No sputter or backfiring. When I turn the key it fires right back up, no excessive cranking or sputtering or flooding smell. It's essentially a clean stall and clean restart. Just as if I turned off the key intentionally and turned it back on intentionally.

I checked the gap in the distributor when I got it from you and it was fine. I will re-check it later today. I checked the connections at the HEI module and everything was secure. Also the timing is at 12-14 degrees advanced at idle last I checked.

Before I drive it I will take out the idle screws and squirt some carb cleaner down them. I'll also bump up the idle a little.
 
Had a bad rotor do this. Would occasionally pass spark to distributor shaft instead of out through the towers. Would do it in the same intersection going to work almost every day. Went to pop rotor off and it was really stuck. There was a black spot inside rotor below tab.
 
When it dies, it just dies. No sputter or backfiring. When I turn the key it fires right back up, no excessive cranking or sputtering or flooding smell. It's essentially a clean stall and clean restart. Just as if I turned off the key intentionally and turned it back on intentionally.

I checked the gap in the distributor when I got it from you and it was fine. I will re-check it later today. I checked the connections at the HEI module and everything was secure.

Before I drive it I will take out the idle screws and squirt some carb cleaner down them. I'll also bump up the idle a little.

Sounds like a plan.
 
You didn't mention what your idle rpm is set at.
 
You didn't mention what your idle rpm is set at.
 
You didn't mention what your idle rpm is set at.
 
i would maybe idle it up just a tad, and then revisit the idle mix tuning...
def tune idle mix when it's fully warm, maybe even do it in drive instead of park.
 
i would maybe idle it up just a tad, and then revisit the idle mix tuning...
def tune idle mix when it's fully warm, maybe even do it in drive instead of park.
With no performance cam the "in drive" spec is important. Most specs are 650-750 rpm in drive.
 
I just took the car on a drive to run a couple errands and no problems - as I said most of the time it's fine. I got home and with the car nice and warm I checked the idle RPM in park.....620

I think my ear was correct and the idle is way low. Whats recommended these days with today's gas in an automatic? 900? 950?

I do not have a helper right now to hold the brake pedal down so I can check the idle while in drive

i would maybe idle it up just a tad, and then revisit the idle mix tuning...
def tune idle mix when it's fully warm, maybe even do it in drive instead of park.
Great suggestion to set the idle mixture screws while the car is in D. I will do this next time I have a helper nearby. Currently the screws are 2 turns out. This morning I removed the screws and squirted carb cleaner down the openings.
 
I just took the car on a drive to run a couple errands and no problems - as I said most of the time it's fine. I got home and with the car nice and warm I checked the idle RPM in park.....620

I think my ear was correct and the idle is way low. Whats recommended these days with today's gas in an automatic? 900? 950?

I do not have a helper right now to hold the brake pedal down so I can check the idle while in drive


Great suggestion to set the idle mixture screws while the car is in D. I will do this next time I have a helper nearby. Currently the screws are 2 turns out. This morning I removed the screws and squirted carb cleaner down the openings.
You could bump it up a quarter turn. I like 650 in drive. Setting on a level surface you should be able to stay stopped to just slightly creep idling in drive. Setting the idle mixture in drive is ok. You need a helper, a good working parking brake and/or wheel chocks. Be safe not sorry. Setting the idle mixture can be a whole other thread here on FABO. Max. rpm or max. vacuum are 2 different ways. The most important thing is that the engine can't be idling too high so that the carb is operating off the transition or main metering systems of the carb. The throttle plates must be closed.
 
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