HemiEd
Well-Known Member
Is there a common problem with them? Mine is not a rally dash, just the normal one in the 68 Barracuda. It was fine, until the last time I had it out.
The gauges read low, and dash lights are very dim
- Thread starter HemiEd
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HemiEd
Well-Known Member
I will check that out Jerry thanks! That should be easy enough.
I have read some posts about a regulator on the back of the instrument cluster, and wasn't sure if it could cause this symptom.
Not sure , that might just control gauges , it is a rectangular box, I got one of the "new" electronic dash regulators for mi rallye dash , oil press and temp gauges were not working now they do . Someone here makes a elec limiter that seems to work well . They are a good idea , the old system is like old tea kettles where a stip of metal heats up to make contact , when they go it could blow the gauges , the new will just shut off , not ruin gauges
Also had dash lights that were dim and around the speedo did not work . Tried new bulbs ,and sockets , made no difference . Then I bought new printed circuit boards , now all dash lights are working and bright . '
Noticed on the old circuit board that the copper was " corroded " and worn in spots and the plastic a bit brittle , that must have been the problem .
Hope you solve the problem , dashes are a pain to work on
Also had dash lights that were dim and around the speedo did not work . Tried new bulbs ,and sockets , made no difference . Then I bought new printed circuit boards , now all dash lights are working and bright . '
Noticed on the old circuit board that the copper was " corroded " and worn in spots and the plastic a bit brittle , that must have been the problem .
Hope you solve the problem , dashes are a pain to work on
The normal one in a 68 Barracuda is a rallye instrument panel if and when the term rallye refers to round gauge pods.
I recommend adding a ground wire on one of those screws that hold the plastic bezel to the potmetal housing and routed to the screw that holds the fuse box in place. This provides a ground when the bezel is pulled part way out for testing. Male to female spade connecters inline too so that fusebox screw doesn't need to be removed when completely removing the panel.
I recommend adding a ground wire on one of those screws that hold the plastic bezel to the potmetal housing and routed to the screw that holds the fuse box in place. This provides a ground when the bezel is pulled part way out for testing. Male to female spade connecters inline too so that fusebox screw doesn't need to be removed when completely removing the panel.
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