harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Not familiar with RR1.
The Replacement 2nd Gen Barracuda
- Thread starter Stumpy
- Start date
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The heater box was a mess that needed a lot of attention. The hanger bracket screw was probably rusted shut so to remove a previous owner broke the box and pulled it through the bottom of the fresh air plenum and lost it. The clips were apparently a source of frustration and the box was screwed, so there are holes all around the lip of the two halves of the box and one section was just ripped out.
To fix the box I used a combination of plastic welding, reinforcing with wire and metal mesh, marine epoxy and JB Weld. It isn't perfect but strong enough to hold the original clips in and use the hanger for the plenum again.
To fix the box I used a combination of plastic welding, reinforcing with wire and metal mesh, marine epoxy and JB Weld. It isn't perfect but strong enough to hold the original clips in and use the hanger for the plenum again.
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4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Good work! Ours was cracked at same mount hole. Used JB Weld and stuck a washer in the jb before it set up. I was leery of it cracking again and didn't want a do over. 
Now I know where the term clusters*** came from. It is a miracle that it didn't spontaneously combust. Burnt wires, blue clips, wire nuts everywhere. And still don't know where the wire that goes nowhere in the last pic was for.
Installed steering column wiring and turn signal assembly and replaced the aftermarket wheel with a different aftermarket wheel while I had it off anyway. The modern customized import look wasn't doing it for me so went with the old school hot rod look for now. Eventually planning on replacing with an A-Body Rally type steering wheel but I have bigger fish to fry on this fish.
matthon
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Old school is cool.
Rebuilt the dash cluster today. Replaced circuit boards with new. Replaced all the failed right side gauges with NOS, repo or used pieces. Added external voltage regulator and rewired dash harness to work with it. All new LEDs. Bench tested all new lights and gauges.
Finished up heater box rebuild today. All new seals and foams in repaired heater box. Installed new control cable and used fresh air door that were missing. Pressure tested core. Installed rebuild kit for controls. Bench tested fan motor and door operation and adjusted all control cables.
Ready to install.
Ready to install.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
you say you pressure tested the heater core? with all the work you've done and how much work it is to get to it again surely it's worth fitting a new core at this stage?
neil.
neil.
It was a replacement core. It was in good shape. If it ain't broke...
Worked on the wiring and finished putting in new MOPAR type ignition system to replace old Pertronix. Pretty much everything in the back of the bay and new wiring where I want it. Originally put the coil in the stock position but decided I wanted to unclutter that area for easier access to stuff so I mounted it on the firewall about 30 degrees. HEI went where I always put it. Later style voltage regulator and 4-post ballast resistor to right of brake master. M&H Harness went in without a much of a problem.
Noodling around with stereo ideas. Remember these? These were the coolest aftermarket under-dash solution for MOPARS BITD. Nothing aftermarket would fit in-dash back then. It would be cool in the Bacaruda. I bet I could take a non-working one and convert it to bluetooth like I did the original radio in my 65 Dart. I think it would be a cool retro mod.
Putting in the dash wiring harness from M&H. The bulkhead connector is being a royal pain in the butt. I just can't get it to clip in. There must be a trick to it. I don't remember it ever being this hard on my other harnesses.
::Edit:: Figured it out. Bent the clips in a little and shaved some insulation off the gasket and it fit like a glove. Only cost one broken clip in the process. Salvaged a clip from the old harness. Now to struggle with getting the connectors to clip in. This assembly is one of those things I DON'T like about MOPARS.
::Edit:: Figured it out. Bent the clips in a little and shaved some insulation off the gasket and it fit like a glove. Only cost one broken clip in the process. Salvaged a clip from the old harness. Now to struggle with getting the connectors to clip in. This assembly is one of those things I DON'T like about MOPARS.
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Nice color!
Got everything wired up and did a test. All lights work. Turned the key to aux and the fuel gauge quickly pegged past Full and I turned it off. It has a new aftermarket fuel gauge and external IVR. Tested fine on the bench.
Now have to debug the fuel gauge. Poked my head in back and checked out fuel sender. Looks like new tank and sender. No ground strap but I'm not convinced that is the problem. Next garage session I'll get my voltage tester and try and figure it out.
Now have to debug the fuel gauge. Poked my head in back and checked out fuel sender. Looks like new tank and sender. No ground strap but I'm not convinced that is the problem. Next garage session I'll get my voltage tester and try and figure it out.
My first move would be to use a temporary ground strap and re-check the gauge operation. Alligator clips and a piece of wire. The fuel pickup should be insulated by the rubber seal preventing ground.
You are reading my mind.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
yes a test earth will check that issue. it's more likely a tank to body earth than sender to tank earth issue though. the sender's locking ring should earth the sender to the tank well, especially as both look new so nice clean 'connection' there.
neil.
neil.
Hooked a battery grounded jumper to the fuel sender to test for ground, gauge quickly moves to over full. Same behavior with no ground. Disconnected sender and gauge remains on E. Grounded the sender wire and gauge climbs. The sender looks like the problem so I ordered one to replace.
Meanwhile Chased some more gremlins out of the new wiring. Reinstalled and grounded the steering column and cleaned up the passenger parking lamp that was intermittently going out. Headlights, tail lights, parking lights, turn signals and hazards work great now. Still have to debug some gauge problems and fix the passenger rear marker light. Also need to install backup light harness.
Meanwhile Chased some more gremlins out of the new wiring. Reinstalled and grounded the steering column and cleaned up the passenger parking lamp that was intermittently going out. Headlights, tail lights, parking lights, turn signals and hazards work great now. Still have to debug some gauge problems and fix the passenger rear marker light. Also need to install backup light harness.
Adjusted the heater control cables so they work smoothly and test-fitted an original radio to try to figure out what I'm going to do with the hack job an owner did on the dash to fit an aftermarket stereo.
The sheetmetal on the dash frame is butchered pretty bad and I'm not sure what to do about it. That hole isn't the only butchery. I think eventually I'll try to get hold of a donor dash frame, strip it and paint it and replace the current one.
In the short term I'm thinking of doing some plastic repair and rebuild the dash bezel radio cut out using the silver insert from Detroit Muscle Technologies as a template, and cut the plastic filler piece a bit lower and paint it to match the dash sheetmetal. That should cover up the ragged hole below the radio. No one should notice it tucked behind the lower dash pad.
What the heck did they use to cut that hole? A serrated kitchen knife? Sheesh.
It's turning out everything on this car takes 10 times longer to fix than it should.
I'd also like to find the bolt plates and nuts that hold the stereo in place and a new wiper control knob.
The sheetmetal on the dash frame is butchered pretty bad and I'm not sure what to do about it. That hole isn't the only butchery. I think eventually I'll try to get hold of a donor dash frame, strip it and paint it and replace the current one.
In the short term I'm thinking of doing some plastic repair and rebuild the dash bezel radio cut out using the silver insert from Detroit Muscle Technologies as a template, and cut the plastic filler piece a bit lower and paint it to match the dash sheetmetal. That should cover up the ragged hole below the radio. No one should notice it tucked behind the lower dash pad.
What the heck did they use to cut that hole? A serrated kitchen knife? Sheesh.
It's turning out everything on this car takes 10 times longer to fix than it should.
I'd also like to find the bolt plates and nuts that hold the stereo in place and a new wiper control knob.
matthon
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That's a different thread.
Dash Radio Cut-Out Fix Ideas needed!
Everything takes longer than ya think.
Learned the kid on that since new.
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