The Replacement 2nd Gen Barracuda

[Stumpy]

Working out final new wiring bugs. Fixed both passenger marker lights and tested backup lights to make sure I've got the third harness wiring correct and the backup harness works.

Might be able to try to start the car tomorrow.

 

[Stumpy]

Decided to replace all the hoses. They were all old enough to drink and the fuel lines were extensively cracked. Along with all the electrical problems and the fuel lines it is pure luck the car didn't burn up with the PO. The last pic is the after new hoses installed. I know, I know, glass Edelbrock fuel filter baaad but I have a reason. The fuel lines from the sender to the fuel pump outlet was the original 5/16" while the lines to the Holley are 3/8". The car ran fine with this set up so I figured I'll run with it for now. The Edelbrock filter has multiple size fittings so I can run the correct sized hoses to the right size nipples. My other choice was to just tighten a 3/8" fuel line to a 5/16" nipple on a canister but went with this set up. Side benefit is I can see if there is a bunch of crud in the tank. Because of the awkward position of the carb lines I had to do a loop with the fuel line to avoid kinking, centered the filter in open space as well as I could and secured the fuel filter so it won't bounce around. I'll probably figure something else out later.

I topped off the radiator with water and let it sit overnight to test for any leaks at the fittings and fired it up today. Started right up and runs great with zero leaks in fuel or coolant with 6 pounds of pressure in the at the carb fuel line. Found out I'm missing the rear idle mixture screw on the secondary and ordered a replacement. I'll fine tune it when I get the screw.

All the gauges work now except the gas. Let it run until thermostat kicked in when it topped 180 and settled at about 1/3. Aftermarket mechanical Oil Pressure gauge I put in for now started out at 72 and settled warm at 60 at idle. The factory gauge looks high at 3/4 warm. I don't remember my 69 Barracuda dash running so high. Oh well, that's why I always run a secondary oil gauge.

Tomorrow I'll check for leaks again with pressure in the system, drop out the water and replace with coolant and distilled water.

Lot's of details to fuss over but at least it runs now. I'd like to find some clips for the heater hoses. What came on a 68?

 

[mpgmike]

Gosh darn I love those gauges! I did an series of articles for Nuts and Volts Magazine for a small engine ignition timing controller about 3 years ago. It used a touch screen. Here is what the "Gauges" screen looked like:

 

[S'cuder]

Decided to replace all the hoses. They were all old enough to drink and the fuel lines were extensively cracked. Along with all the electrical problems and the fuel lines it is pure luck the car didn't burn up with the PO. The last pic is the after new hoses installed. I know, I know, glass Edelbrock fuel filter baaad but I have a reason. The fuel lines from the sender to the fuel pump outlet was the original 5/16" while the lines to the Holley are 3/8". The car ran fine with this set up so I figured I'll run with it for now. The Edelbrock filter has multiple size fittings so I can run the correct sized hoses to the right size nipples. My other choice was to just tighten a 3/8" fuel line to a 5/16" nipple on a canister but went with this set up. Side benefit is I can see if there is a bunch of crud in the tank. Because of the awkward position of the carb lines I had to do a loop with the fuel line to avoid kinking, centered the filter in open space as well as I could and secured the fuel filter so it won't bounce around. I'll probably figure something else out later.

I topped off the radiator with water and let it sit overnight to test for any leaks at the fittings and fired it up today. Started right up and runs great with zero leaks in fuel or coolant with 6 pounds of pressure in the at the carb fuel line. Found out I'm missing the rear idle mixture screw on the secondary and ordered a replacement. I'll fine tune it when I get the screw.

All the gauges work now except the gas. Let it run until thermostat kicked in when it topped 180 and settled at about 1/3. Aftermarket mechanical Oil Pressure gauge I put in for now started out at 72 and settled warm at 60 at idle. The factory gauge looks high at 3/4 warm. I don't remember my 69 Barracuda dash running so high. Oh well, that's why I always run a secondary oil gauge.

Tomorrow I'll check for leaks again with pressure in the system, drop out the water and replace with coolant and distilled water.

Lot's of details to fuss over but at least it runs now. I'd like to find some clips for the heater hoses. What came on a 68?

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I think your stock oil pressure gauge is fine. 60 PSI reading 3/4 on a stock gauge is right where it should be.

 

[Stumpy]

The tail light wiring was pretty rough and scabbed together, and since I put in a new dash and engine harness, why not finish it up with a new chassis harness? Plus there was a chance that a correct pigtail connector would fix my fuel gauge problem. It didn't, though it did give me a chance to further inspect the condition of the chassis.

Overall, it looks pretty good, with just a little surface rust in a few spots. Looks like a PO had a bit of a problem with the pass side fuel tank bolt though.

 

[4spdragtop]

Good work, do yourself a favor and dbl chk the plastic clips in 1st pic that hold the festoon bulb(cargo light). These are known to disintegrate due to age and the heat from the bulb. Also chk the backside of those clips and maybe tape off the back. The metal clips come REAL close to touching metal when installed.
M&H sell new bulb holders.

The tail light wiring was pretty rough and scabbed together, and since I put in a new dash and engine harness, why not finish it up with a new chassis harness? Plus there was a chance that a correct pigtail connector would fix my fuel gauge problem. It didn't, though it did give me a chance to further inspect the condition of the chassis.

Overall, it looks pretty good, with just a little surface rust in a few spots. Looks like a PO had a bit of a problem with the pass side fuel tank bolt though.



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[RLF Cuda]

I finished the restoration of my '68 and have a number of gauges and speedometers that would work for your dash. I also have original wiring for the engine compartment and under dash that you could use to repair what you have with OEM wires. Not so sure the wiring harnesses are complete, but the individual wires are in good shape. Beats buying a brand-new replacement harness. Let me know what you need and I will see if I have the items.

 

[Stumpy]

I finished the restoration of my '68 and have a number of gauges and speedometers that would work for your dash. I also have original wiring for the engine compartment and under dash that you could use to repair what you have with OEM wires. Not so sure the wiring harnesses are complete, but the individual wires are in good shape. Beats buying a brand-new replacement harness. Let me know what you need and I will see if I have the items.

I already rewired the car and replaced or rebuilt the gauges.

 

[mosleyme]

Overall, it looks pretty good, with just a little surface rust in a few spots. Looks like a PO had a bit of a problem with the pass side fuel tank bolt though.

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This is the passenger side shock mount. PO probably ripped it out using air shocks.

 

[Stumpy]

This is the passenger side shock mount. PO probably ripped it out using air shocks.

I wonder if I should do something about that repair? Beyond the embarrassing welding. That mounting stud looks like a different size altogether than the other one.

This car is just full of "thatsgoodenough" repairs.

 

[matthon]

I wonder if I should do something about that repair? Beyond the embarrassing welding. That mounting stud looks like a different size altogether than the other one.

Maybe stronger than the factory mount at this point, ugly or not.
I always thought those were flimsy, maybe 'fix' both.

Different size mounting studs should be fun when replacing shocks.

 

[RLF Cuda]

Time to start digging into the Barracuda. On the short drive from plucking it off the truck, to the stable, I noticed that the only working gauge in the cluster was the ammeter. Even speedo is out. No dash lights either. Exterior lights good except for right back marker. So out came the dash. The dash electrical is a mess from aftermarket stereo install, aftermarket gauges, crispy ammeter wiring and fried rallye cluster gauges. In other words, the cluster is a cluster**k. Between the original cluster and another 67 Dash I had I think I managed to find a working ammeter and oil pressure gauge and think I can get one of the temp gauges to work. But both fuel gauges are fried beyond repair. To add insult to injury all heater/Def controls were disabled in various ways that I would describe as well... creative.

I want to keep the stock rallye dash so I put in an order for new gauges and harness but many parts are so far backordered I've got no confidence in getting them anytime soon. If anyone has a lead on an intact fuel gauge so I can get the car running, I would appreciate it. I'm intending to convert to external voltage regulator so it could be stock or already converted.

As for the dash harness, I've got to get the car running so I'm going to remove it and unhook all aftermarket connections and patch together a working harness that just runs just the original accessories. The plan is to reinstall a stock roller radio, converted to bluetooth, but for now I'm going to run stereo delete to reduce load on the poor electrical system. Given the crispy ammeter wires, I'll probably end up bypassing the ammeter for now and putting in a shunt system with fusible link. I just need to get this car running. I can worry about making it nice later.

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I have original wiring harnesses that can be scrounged to replace the damaged wires. Just have to retape after replacing the wire. The fix is to install a shunt wire of about 4 Gauge from the alternator post to the starter battery post that will divert most of the current flow away from the amp gauge. It will still show slight charge, but maybe 90% of the current will bypass the amp meter reducing the load on the spade connectors. Let me know if you want some factory wiring. I also have a number of original '68 gauges if needed.

 

[Stumpy]

I have original wiring harnesses that can be scrounged to replace the damaged wires. Just have to retape after replacing the wire. The fix is to install a shunt wire of about 4 Gauge from the alternator post to the starter battery post that will divert most of the current flow away from the amp gauge. It will still show slight charge, but maybe 90% of the current will bypass the amp meter reducing the load on the spade connectors. Let me know if you want some factory wiring. I also have a number of original '68 gauges if needed.

Again, I already replaced the wiring and the gauges. I am not doing a bypass.