The Ugly Duckling, 74 Duster Build

[74axeduster]

So long story short one of the previous owners ex-gf took a axe to the car (hence the username) and took out all the windows, cut into the trunk and roof, and took the hammer end to the cowl, and some of the fender panels. On top of all that someone cut in a manual crank moon roof at some point.

With all that something about it just called to me so im gonna build it. The goal is a fast and fun street/strip car. I have no intention to cruise this in hot rod shows but id like to keep it streetable enough to run to a buddies house or to the gas station without using a trailer.

Mechanically the car is in really good shape, all new ball joints, new tie rod ends, new pitman arm, 904 (i think) shifts great, 318 seems healthy.

I have a car lift so when i spit out a freeze plug i tossed it on there and took some pictures.

So heres the build plan:

Mini tub and stuff some meaty slicks in there
Spring relocation with SS/Hemi springs for 1" lift
9in or 60 rear with 3.73 or 3.91/4.10 havent quiet decided
Reverse manual valve body with tunnel pistol shifter
1.03 torsion bars
New shocks all around
Fuel Cell and electric fuel pump
Bigger radiator and electric fans(this stock one barely keeps the 318 cool)
150hp Shot of NOS

Now heres where im torn, i have a 440 core block, a running 440 (that is very tired but would be suitable for mock-up/intial tests which i build the core) that i think would go great with a pair of fenderwell headers.

Or i can get a 408 stroker long block block for 5200. id really like to dump the NOS and toss on a 6-71/8-71 roots blower, its not really feasible for the 408 as id need custom pistons to get the compression low enough. It is feasible with the 440 but im mildy concerned that combo will rip this poor a-body apart. I am a confident welder fabicator so theres a good chance ill be throwing some tube/reinforcements at this at some point

 

[Murray]

Do you have some before/after pics?

 

[74axeduster]

Do you have some before/after pics?

This is the car as it sits, i do not have any before pictures, i do have the trunk lid on the car with the axe holes and the roof hasnt been patched yet ill grab a couple when i get home

 

[dukeboy440]

So long story short one of the previous owners ex-gf took a axe to the car (hence the username) and took out all the windows, cut into the trunk and roof, and took the hammer end to the cowl, and some of the fender panels. On top of all that someone cut in a manual crank moon roof at some point.

With all that something about it just called to me so im gonna build it. The goal is a fast and fun street/strip car. I have no intention to cruise this in hot rod shows but id like to keep it streetable enough to run to a buddies house or to the gas station without using a trailer.

Mechanically the car is in really good shape, all new ball joints, new tie rod ends, new pitman arm, 904 (i think) shifts great, 318 seems healthy.

I have a car lift so when i spit out a freeze plug i tossed it on there and took some pictures.
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So heres the build plan:

Mini tub and stuff some meaty slicks in there
Spring relocation with SS/Hemi springs for 1" lift
9in or 60 rear with 3.73 or 3.91/4.10 havent quiet decided
Reverse manual valve body with tunnel pistol shifter
1.03 torsion bars
New shocks all around
Fuel Cell and electric fuel pump
Bigger radiator and electric fans(this stock one barely keeps the 318 cool)
150hp Shot of NOS

Now heres where im torn, i have a 440 core block, a running 440 (that is very tired but would be suitable for mock-up/intial tests which i build the core) that i think would go great with a pair of fenderwell headers.

Or i can get a 408 stroker long block block for 5200. id really like to dump the NOS and toss on a 6-71/8-71 roots blower, its not really feasible for the 408 as id need custom pistons to get the compression low enough. It is feasible with the 440 but im mildy concerned that combo will rip this poor a-body apart. I am a confident welder fabicator so theres a good chance ill be throwing some tube/reinforcements at this at some point

Meh, a 440 isn't going to destroy the A body. Just add some sub frame connectors and torque boxes and it'll be fine.

 

[Cazbah362]

Build the suspension first, tub it with the rear end of choice (8.8?) (frame supports/box) - keep the 318/904 build on your 440

 

[74axeduster]

Build the suspension first, tub it with the rear end of choice (8.8?) (frame supports/box) - keep the 318/904 build on your 440

Interesting you bring that up, i was originally considering an 8.8 rear and have ones local in the gear ratios i wanted with disc brakes, and narrowing it to both short side axles gets me pretty close to the wms i need.

Is and 8.8 gonna hold up to 600-700hp?

 

[dukeboy440]

Interesting you bring that up, i was originally considering an 8.8 rear and have ones local in the gear ratios i wanted with disc brakes, and narrowing it to both short side axles gets me pretty close to the wms i need.

Is and 8.8 gonna hold up to 600-700hp?

in short, no. especially with slicks or sticky slick wanna-bees. Once you get north of 600 hp, its not if it'll live, but how long. Its why I am selling my A body 8.75 and upgrading to the Dana 60. Yeah, the 8.75 would likely survived for a while at my goal of 650, but how long. Same with the 8.8 and factory 9 inches. Now someone is going to chime in and say their 900 hp drag car with an 8.8 has lasted 10 years, but rather be safe than sorry. If you do it right, you can be into a Dana 60 for less than 1200 bucks. Not as cheap as a 8.75 and especially not as cheap as an 8.8. but not the 2-3k+ figures often seen.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Like Dukeboy says, Dana 60, especially with the 440. I know it's easy to spend other peoples money, but something so right about a blower and a 440. Plan on an engine girdle.

 

[moparmat2000]

That crank open moon roof looks to be a factory installed roof.

 

[74axeduster]

Like Dukeboy says, Dana 60, especially with the 440. I know it's easy to spend other peoples money, but something so right about a blower and a 440. Plan on an engine girdle.

Big block mopars just run in my blood, its hard to not want to toss that into the car, plus like i said i can swap in the running 440 and get the tranny/headers and other mounting situated and bulld the core up and then do a transplant down the road.

I have a pretty extensice offroad background, whats everyones thoughts on a 9in rear end? they take a ton of abuse offroad in 500-600hp rigs and 40+tires i figured it would be a good canidate? id love a dana 60 and would prefer it but finding one in in a 5x4.5 pattern seems next to impossible unless i get a custom one from currie or dana

 

[dukeboy440]

Big block mopars just run in my blood, its hard to not want to toss that into the car, plus like i said i can swap in the running 440 and get the tranny/headers and other mounting situated and bulld the core up and then do a transplant down the road.

I have a pretty extensice offroad background, whats everyones thoughts on a 9in rear end? they take a ton of abuse offroad in 500-600hp rigs and 40+tires i figured it would be a good canidate? id love a dana 60 and would prefer it but finding one in in a 5x4.5 pattern seems next to impossible unless i get a custom one from currie or dana

meh. The 8.75 with a 489 case will bolt right in and handle the same.

As for the Dana 60. It is not as hard or as expensive as you are thinking.
Steps listed below.

1: Go to a junkyard, especially a you pull yard or pick a part. If you go with pic-a-part, you can get the Dana 60 from a Dodge,Ford or chevy pickup for 150-200 bucks.
2: Contact a machine shop or an axle specialist like Moser, they will cut your Dana 60 down, its a 150 bucks (for you, shipping would add to that both ways, so find a machine shop local to you and it'll probably be less than 100-150)
3: Depending on which Dana 60 you get, you may or may not need the Mopar style axle flanges. If you get one from a 72-93 Dodge pickup, you wont need to buy new flanges, they can simply re-weld them. If you do need to buy the new flanges, Moser has them for 100 bucks.
4: After shortening it, order the correct length axles and the bolt pattern you need. This is why I'm taking my to Moser later this month. They can cut it down and make me the axles as well as verify the fitment right there on the spot. Moser axles are 385 bucks. Dr Diff i think is around 300 for axles that are just as good, so you can save some coin there too.
5: Seals and bearings: 100 bucks

Total for a bolt in ready Dana 60: <950 bucks. depending on how much you pay for the original and if you ship it.

And thats assuming you keep the gear set that comes with the Dana 60. I am as I got mine with a 4.10 and Limited Slip already in it. Running a T56 trans so the 4.10s wont totally kill mileage for my 440.

For me, by the time you buy a ford 9 inch, custom or factory, spend the time making it fit the Dart, probably some money and such too, its pretty much equal to the junkyard Dana 60 route but with far less strength.

 

[dukeboy440]

Big block mopars just run in my blood, its hard to not want to toss that into the car, plus like i said i can swap in the running 440 and get the tranny/headers and other mounting situated and bulld the core up and then do a transplant down the road.

I have a pretty extensice offroad background, whats everyones thoughts on a 9in rear end? they take a ton of abuse offroad in 500-600hp rigs and 40+tires i figured it would be a good canidate? id love a dana 60 and would prefer it but finding one in in a 5x4.5 pattern seems next to impossible unless i get a custom one from currie or dana

or heck, I'll sell you my A body 8.75 with a 741 case that'd be a direct bolt in if you want.

 

[74axeduster]

or heck, I'll sell you my A body 8.75 with a 741 case that'd be a direct bolt in if you want.

I appreciate the offer but i think a dana 60 will be best for my needs, my right foot has ripped apart a few trucks/cars in its time so overbuilt is the only option i have.

Tinkering with the car still, made up some aluminum door panels at my shop and tossed those on

Indy sells a 360 with a 6-71 on top. interesting that they use cast heads for their long blocks instead of aluminum.

Thinking im going to do the wheel tubs and rear end/tires before anything else so i can do the fuel cell/battery relocate at the same time and tie up the whole rear end before i move to the front suspension.