Theological question regarding MPG and daily driver

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Backtobasics

Backtobasics

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I guess it would be better termed as Theoretical, not Theological...
Question: what would you do?

DD is 97 Ram 1/2 2wd 5.9 and 5 speed manual with 3.55 gears. I am getting a solid 15-16 MPG per tank on daily driver duty. With my amount of driving, I am spending approximately 1,800.00 per year on fuel. I have a Scan Gauge II that I use to monitor engine load, throttle position, and average and instant fuel economy, to help me drive more efficiently.

A beater car that got 30 MPG would cut fuel to 900.00 a year in theory + 100.00 for times when I use a truck as a truck = 1,000.00 a year, or an 800.00 savings.

A really fuel efficient beater that got 45 MPG (with driving techniques, and smart modifications, it's possible), would cut fuel alone from 1800.00 to 600.00 + truck use = 700.00 per year in fuel costs, instead of 1,800.00

What would you do?

A. Spend the roughly 500.00 budget on a beater, tune up, and save the $$ on fuel, but risk death by boredom or idiot on cell phone.
B. Spend the roughly 500.00 budget on the Dart Lite that is currently in the stable, and tune and tune and tune, for best MPG, and drive vintage. This would consist of swapping in the 4 speed OD (already owned) and buying a carb, and tuning carb, igniton, etc.
C. Spend the 500.00 on a Megasquirt system for the truck, to allow the computer to be dialed in. Truck was 318, but 318 died. I bought what I thought was 318 but ended up with 360. The truck is running the stock 318 computer, and runs fine, but the speed density computer system is dumb, and cannot see the increased air flow, and efficiency of the modification made to the truck (listed below). A Megasquirt system would allow me to tune the truck, I mean TUNE the truck, and reach the full potential of the air flow and modifications that should increase efficiency.
 
The truck has modifications that are geared towards efficiency:

  • Electric fans
  • headers
  • good catalytic converter
  • magnaflow exhaust
  • K&N air filter
  • synthetic fluid in engine and transmission
  • 17" wheels of stock variety
  • lowered
  • tonneau cover
  • ported heads and intake manifold

The Dart Lite is basically stock, with the aluminum components except trunk. It is small bolt pattern and drum, and got out with 3 speed manual, instead of 4 speed OD. It has a single 2.25 exhaust with a flowmaster dumped at the axle. Stock aluminum intake, and 1 bbl carb.
 
I'd go with the beater, especially since you're talking about a daily driver. If the beater gets wrecked by some moron trying to text and drive at the same time you just get another $500 beater. If the Dart got wrecked it "might" be hard to find another Dart. My current daily driver is a 62 Buick and having it wrecked by an idiot driver is a worry, esp since insurance companies won't pay squat to you if it's wrecked. Or, since you posed this as a theological question you could check this out:

http://www.squidoo.com/what-would-Jesus-drive

Cheers,
Ken
 
I have found it tuff to get better mileage on some of the newer cars on the market today. In general, there well designed and while not to hard to improve apon, the bang for the buck isn't really in your favor. Things like a MSD and exhaust system on newer rides just don't translate the same way they do on the older cars.

IMO, getting a newer car will be better in a few ways. Likely hood of brake down should be low, greener at the tail pipe, easier on the wallet.

Going with the Dart Lite is also a good way to go for it, itself also has a few advantages. While not as green and fuel effceient, you sure can have a little fun in trying to get there.

First, you can insure the car as a classic. I only spend $600 a year on my '79 Magnum. Which is huge in this state, one of the most expensive in the union. New Jersy is tops. New York is a close 2nd or 3rd. This amount is half + what I would spend on my wifes car or my truck.

$600 is alot towards gas.

The slant 6 IF in good condition should do very well. When new, they had excellent mileage abilties. (LOL, I've never had one get better than 19 mpg Hwy. myself, but with half a gazzilllioon miles on it, I'm not so caring or concerned.)

The best thing about messing with an old engine is the abilty to re-do everything without worry of state testings. For shear mileage concern modifications, I would;

2.76 gear ratio or less. IDK if I'd go with a 2.45 unless I was traveing across country. This ratio may be in your bennifit considering your location.

Increase the diameter of the tire. 24 to 26 is alot. Engine will turn slower at the same speed. Or if you will travel faster at the same RPM.

Upgrade what can be upgraded. Ignition, intake track, exhaust track. You know the drill.
 
I would go with the beater too. Get the Dart Lite done, and drive it in the nicer weather, and as a back up to the beater. Extra savings after that could go to the truck to improve it.
 
Backtobasics said:
I guess it would be better termed as Theoretical, not Theological...
Question: what would you do?

DD is 97 Ram 1/2 2wd 5.9 and 5 speed manual with 3.55 gears. I am getting a solid 15-16 MPG per tank on daily driver duty. With my amount of driving, I am spending approximately 1,800.00 per year on fuel. I have a Scan Gauge II that I use to monitor engine load, throttle position, and average and instant fuel economy, to help me drive more efficiently.

A beater car that got 30 MPG would cut fuel to 900.00 a year in theory + 100.00 for times when I use a truck as a truck = 1,000.00 a year, or an 800.00 savings.

A really fuel efficient beater that got 45 MPG (with driving techniques, and smart modifications, it's possible), would cut fuel alone from 1800.00 to 600.00 + truck use = 700.00 per year in fuel costs, instead of 1,800.00

What would you do?

A. Spend the roughly 500.00 budget on a beater, tune up, and save the $$ on fuel, but risk death by boredom or idiot on cell phone.
B. Spend the roughly 500.00 budget on the Dart Lite that is currently in the stable, and tune and tune and tune, for best MPG, and drive vintage. This would consist of swapping in the 4 speed OD (already owned) and buying a carb, and tuning carb, igniton, etc.
C. Spend the 500.00 on a Megasquirt system for the truck, to allow the computer to be dialed in. Truck was 318, but 318 died. I bought what I thought was 318 but ended up with 360. The truck is running the stock 318 computer, and runs fine, but the speed density computer system is dumb, and cannot see the increased air flow, and efficiency of the modification made to the truck (listed below). A Megasquirt system would allow me to tune the truck, I mean TUNE the truck, and reach the full potential of the air flow and modifications that should increase efficiency.
Click to expand...


so whats insurance on a beater car gonna cost? may not be worth getting a beater.
 
I was thinking the same as Joe. 400. Or500. A year for INS. Plus tags and insp. In the end you save a couple hundred bucks but will you enjoy the ride as much?
 
I say go with the Dart Lite. You already have basically everything you need to swap in the OD. Get a NOS Holley 1920 and see what you can get out of the car. That will be a lot more exciting and fun than just driving a beater around. I'm curious to see if you can pull high 20's in that car as far as mileage goes. Plus the insurance and registration will be cheaper than getting another cheap car. Even then, if you bought like a 92 civic or something, when it breaks down it's going to cost $$$ to fix while your Dart wont cost much at all to repair.
 
Im thinking bout doing something similar, so Im curious as to what you decide. I have an f150 4dr 2 whl drive. Gets 19-21 mpg, gas for me is around $100/wk, I could only dream of having your gas costs!!LOL I dont need a truck fulltime, but I definitely need a truck for at home renos and car parts etc. So another daily driver would be needed. Still not sure of what to do yet as I need a truck and car if I sell my truck. For me the insurance for the extra vehicle is minimal probably $30/month. Let us know what you decide.
 
I called insurance company. Liability only, for either a 95 Toyota Corolla, or 92 S10 pickup (examples), would run 13-15 a month insurance. 180.00 a year to add the beater into the equation.
 
I have toyed with a smaller truck, so I have the truck when needed, and the cheaper daily fuel bill. Problem is, my truck is back up for main family vehicle. If the wifes van craps for any amount of time, we can all fit in the club cab Ram. That won't fly with an S10.

4spdragtop, I don't know if that would work for you. I need a truck from time to time, and there are truely enough trucks in the immediate friends and family network where I could ditch the truck completely, but truth is, I like my truck.
 
4spdragtop said:
Im thinking bout doing something similar, so Im curious as to what you decide. I have an f150 4dr 2 whl drive. Gets 19-21 mpg, gas for me is around $100/wk, I could only dream of having your gas costs!!LOL I dont need a truck fulltime, but I definitely need a truck for at home renos and car parts etc. So another daily driver would be needed. Still not sure of what to do yet as I need a truck and car if I sell my truck. For me the insurance for the extra vehicle is minimal probably $30/month. Let us know what you decide.
Click to expand...

Taking your situation, roughly 100.00 a week, x 52 weeks = for discussion purproses, 5,000 a year in fuel,
--for a vehicle that gets 20 MPG, presuming 3.00 a gallon for easy math = 133 gallons per month, and approximately 2,700 miles, and 400.00 per month in fuel costs

If you were able to go to something that got 30 MPG, you would go the same miles on 90 gallons of fuel x 3.00 per gallon = 270.00 per month in fuel cost, saving you 130.00 a month in gas.

If you were able to go to something that got 40 MPG, you would go the same distance on 66.5 gallsons of fuel x 3.00 per gallon = 200.00 per month in fuel costs, saving you 200.00 a month in gas.
 
In my work beater an s10 v6 I burn a hundred dollars a week on fuel at 20 mpg average. This is why my 13 mpg 4x4cummins diesel dually sits at home unless there's a trailer to be pulled. In my case it's worth it.
 
I remember back in 1987 my dad bought a Ford Escort to drive back and forth to work. It was something like 50 miles one way, and about half of that was highway, the rest backroads, not a lot of lights, but he averaged 53 MPG in that thing. 1987. Why can't new cars do that?

I've always thought it would be cool to build a Dart with fiberglass panels, aluminum block slant, driver's seat only, anything to save weight and have a cool 40+ MPG DD. I don't know if it is even possible to get those kinds of numbers, but it would be cool. Hmmm... maybe an aero nose like a Daytona?
 
4flats said:
... maybe an aero nose like a Daytona?
Click to expand...

I'd like to see that. It's time for another aero Mopar to hit the roads. And building a nose like that wouldn't really be all that hard. Figuring our how to do the headlights might be a pain but you could probably use a covered headlight from a more modern car. Do it!
 
I purchased a Hyundi Excell, least model year, with a manual 5 spd trans. O.D. was 5th. I added a Jacobs Pro Street ignition. (Way overkill! Warning! Went through distibr caps at 1 per year! )
The car got 40 solid on the Hwy all day long.

I've never heard of a Escort getting that kind of mileage, but those econo box cars are a excellent choice if you live in such an area that you would be on the Hwt. for a bit.
 
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