Thinking about trying the 5.9 magnum, but...

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Thanks for the link Shane. Looks like fun! tmm
 
Yes it will work fine you bolt the LA timing cover on the front and all and get a flwheel for the magnum and your good to go!:D
 
rdakota340 said:
Yes it will work fine you bolt the LA timing cover on the front and all and get a flwheel for the magnum and your good to go!:D
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whew! Good to hear.

Sounds like a pretty simple swap.

Was reading more about it, sounds like it's not a very high revver... Would like to fix that...
 
The thing about a 360 is it doesn't have to rev high for power since the long stroke of the crank will peak before 6500 in most cases of street bound engines. Don't waste time reving high, making it rev high and spending the money to rev it high and live. The abuse of a high reving engine is going to have the life span shortened with the added stress.

IDk what power level your looking for, but, a excellent street engine can be created very easy with a good plan and careful part selection without the need to rev past 6500.

I would also be careful of what "Hot Rod" says. 2 reasons;

1. There not a MoPar mag savory on MoPar matters.

2. They have often given ill advice, instructed readers to take the long, expensive and sometimes stupid route when a cheaper, easier, simpler and just as effective and safe route was available.

Do your homework first! Hot Rod does not!

In the case of this article I have read, I can say I personal know Bob Craven, one of the guys that "Helped" in this project.

Bobby (now retired) was "MY" mechanic when things were beyond my reach, time, effort abilty or just plan flat out didn't understand. A MoPar mechanic for 20 years, drag racer and record holder for many years, Bob Craven, well, he knows his stuff.

(And if he actually ever reads this, Miss ya Bobby, happy retirement!)
 
if your going carburated you will either have to buy a magnum specific intake for a carburator or drill the heads for the LA intake bolt pattern
 
I did exactly this swap, and LOVE it. Would NOT change a thing.

Some tips?
As mentioned, get the Magnum flywheel, NOT the 360 'wheel. Now, if you were inclined to get the Mcleod flywheel, I just so happen to have in the classified section, a weight to balance ANY Mcleod flywheel to 5.9 specs, and it's priced right.

I recommend running the Magnum accessories.

I ran all the Magnum accessories on mine. I don't know 100% on early A's (Mine is a '72), but the serp belt, late alternator and simple brackets were a big win in my book. I run the B-van PS bracket (it sits lower), and you'll need the non-AC Magnum alt bracket if you run without AC, and I used a mid-90's PS pump housing from a Dakota (The filler is clocked inwards a little more) and it all fit without hitting my stock battery tray. Battery in the trunk? Then all the Ram brackets fit, AC or not, no problem. The old-school PS Pump body fits the later brackets.
Of course, that assumes you even HAVE power steering. One trip to a well-stocked salvage yard had everything I needed but the alternator bracket. I don't know why they ever made a different one for non-AC but they did, even though no factory truck ever seems to have been made that way. I called salvage yards in CANADA (Like, frozen north, no AC?), and there weren't any. The dealer has them, I can get you the number if needed.

The alternator is a direct connection too. Just run the output wire (Go big on it, the alternator is high-amperage) with the appropriate fusible link directly to the battery stud on starter relay.

I'd stay away from the Chinese air-gap, and get the real deal. I had a hellacious time getting the bypass hose and other oddball bits for the intake.

Do it, you won't regret it!
 
One other problem is the pilot hole in the crankshaft is not deep enough. It is easier to shorten the input shaft of the trans a quarter inch rather than drill the crankshaft. If you don't do either the bell housing will not fit against the block. Don't ask me how I know this lol.
 
Follow these guys,I did the Mag/727 swap last summer,you wont regret it.
 
CUDA69 said:
One other problem is the pilot hole in the crankshaft is not deep enough. It is easier to shorten the input shaft of the trans a quarter inch rather than drill the crankshaft. If you don't do either the bell housing will not fit against the block. Don't ask me how I know this lol.
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I did not have this problem. I also did not use the bronze bushing, I used the later style roller input shaft bearing in the crank. My 4-speed stabbed right in like it grew there.
 
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