Thought I fixed it, turns out I didn't. Still not wanting to start.

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_Sam

_Sam

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To sum it up my 73 dart has a 318 and its being a pain. I''ll start it up. Runs fine. I'll shut it off and then start it back up. Runs fine. I'll shut it off, wait about five to ten minutes and then try to start it and nothing. All it does is turn over but doesn't fir. I've replaced the ECU thinking that was the issue but it looks like that's not it. Maybe vapor lock, or an electrical problem? where should I start?
 
How well is the ECU grounded? If it's not grounded properly the car will not start.

Start simple: fuel, air, spark. When it won't start do you have fuel and/or spark? Under the no start condition, pull #1 plug, place a screw diver in the plug boot, allow a small gap between the body of the screw diver and the tip of the plug and have someone try to start the car. Observe the spark in any. If it look bright and jumps easy you have spark. If no spark you found your problem is in the ignition system. I strong spark move onto the fuel side. If you pull your air cleaner, looking straign down the center of the carb and manual move the throttle do you get fuel shooting into the carb?

What is your engine, carb, and ignition comprise of? (i.e. 360, stock electronic ignition, Holley 600cfm carb, heads, cam, headers, anything else you think we need to know).
 
^^Yup^^

Did you have another thread? What have you done? What have you checked?

Cranking coil voltage?

Check spark while cranking?

Only hot? Hot or cold?
 
Original thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=147476

Looks like you converted from 2bbl to 4bbl? What kind of carb?

When hot and you try to restart, have you tried holding the pedal down halfway or more as you crank? It may be that your carb is percolating when shut off and won't fire as a result.

I'd try cranking for 5-10 seconds with the pedal somewhat depressed (no pumping though!) before trying to dig too far into other issues. If it works, then you have carb tuning to do, and not parts to replace.

Also, all the above information requested by others will help if it's not a simple starting procedure issue.
 
Make sure that stupid plug for the distributor wires is tight also.
I have seen those loose connection intermittently because of expansion and contraction from temperature changes.
 
TrailBeast said:
Make sure that stupid plug for the distributor wires is tight also.
I have seen those loose connection intermittently because of expansion and contraction from temperature changes.
Click to expand...

I've mentioned this many times. There is "no" current through that plug and that means that plug of all others on the car is especially prone if a bit corroded or loose. ALWAYS work the connectors in out several times, feel for tightness. As others have suggested, not a bad idea to stick a bit of dielectric grease in 'em
 
_Sam said:
To sum it up my 73 dart has a 318 and its being a pain. I''ll start it up. Runs fine. I'll shut it off and then start it back up. Runs fine. I'll shut it off, wait about five to ten minutes and then try to start it and nothing. All it does is turn over but doesn't fir. I've replaced the ECU thinking that was the issue but it looks like that's not it. Maybe vapor lock, or an electrical problem? where should I start?
Click to expand...

If you have a Back-Up or Extra...

Ignition Coil

http://www.moparmall.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/media/08/a20791a1438dc05df81f75_m.jpg





throw that on there and see if it still does it...... I had a similiar problem solved by changing out the Coil.
 
Sounds to me like the typical carbureted car with modern, Ethanol spiked fuel. It starts fine if it doesn't sit too long after running, but in ten-twenty minutes the engine floods when the fuel boils from underhood engine heat. Thirty minutes later, the fuel has mostly evaporated, the excess pressure has gone down, and it starts.

Installing a heat shield under the carburetor helps, as does routing the fuel lines away from the engine, or insulating it from the fuel pump to the carb. There are fuel line mods that help also, but in the end, we are stuck using fuel that our cars were never designed to use.

I pretty well have the timing figured out for my car and if it's been sitting a while, I just hold the accelerator down before hitting the starter.
 
If you ever flood your engine, just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it until it kicks over. Eventually all of the excess fuel will evaporate and you will be able to start it within a minute or two of cranking (letting the starter rest once in a while of course)...
 
When it wont start have you ever pulled the coil wire and see if you get spark
 
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