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- Thread starter T.slabseeker
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It said they decided to use up the left handed and then start using right handed on all the wheels.
They just used up the LH that they had on hand already first.
(not that they couldn't get any more)Dork.
Oops, sorry as that is considered "Name calling"
Doh... #-o
They do that all the time... It's called running change without obsolescense, no scrap at the assembly plant or supplier because they get to run it out before changing over.
No offense on the name calling. I can take it..... :farao:
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yea, that's the technical term ^ somewhere.
I figured you could take like i meant it, but I made that mistake before too.
pishta
I know I'm right....
I beg to differ...Drive a stud out of a front hub and see if you can get another one to set.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=202296
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83139
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
I agree. There was no problem at all changing them to all RH on my '69 Dart, or on my old '70 Road Runner.
ssba
Well-Known Member
On my 69 with drums it wasn't as simple as just tapping the LH studs out
and driving in RH studs. They were set in the hub and drum similar to a rivit.
Sweged as posted above. This makes the hub and drum one part so to speak.
I didn't have a press at the time and tried to knock them out with a hammer.
Ruined a drum learning this. If they were removed in a press with a socket
backing up the hub it may work without damage to your parts.
Honestly rebuilding all the drum brakes on my car was the biggest waste of money I
have ever spent on any of my a-bodies. They were the most inadequate brakes
I have ever experienced after a complete rebuild.
This was on a 340 swinger. I have been doing the disc brake swap ever since and
no longer have to worry about bumping into cars in front of me in the drive thru line
or at traffic lights.
Hope my experience or mistakes on this can benefit someone that is new
to these cars as I was then. I learned the only work that should be done on the drums is to toss the entire front drum system on the iron pile. I know this is a harsh way to be talking about my
favorite cars ever made but I am being serious. If you only do 1 mod to your car. Front disc is it.
and driving in RH studs. They were set in the hub and drum similar to a rivit.
Sweged as posted above. This makes the hub and drum one part so to speak.
I didn't have a press at the time and tried to knock them out with a hammer.
Ruined a drum learning this. If they were removed in a press with a socket
backing up the hub it may work without damage to your parts.
Honestly rebuilding all the drum brakes on my car was the biggest waste of money I
have ever spent on any of my a-bodies. They were the most inadequate brakes
I have ever experienced after a complete rebuild.
This was on a 340 swinger. I have been doing the disc brake swap ever since and
no longer have to worry about bumping into cars in front of me in the drive thru line
or at traffic lights.
Hope my experience or mistakes on this can benefit someone that is new
to these cars as I was then. I learned the only work that should be done on the drums is to toss the entire front drum system on the iron pile. I know this is a harsh way to be talking about my
favorite cars ever made but I am being serious. If you only do 1 mod to your car. Front disc is it.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I have seen the swedged in studs too, and you are correct that they will destroy the hub if just knocked out.
Some cars have em and some are just pressed in with a splined shoulder as others have said.
I didn't read your links as I knew it from past experiences.
For a swaged stud, you need to grind down some of the swage before removing the old studs....
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That's the ticket, just like Pishta was saying.
Then new studs can be pulled in with a few washers, or other spacer and a lug nut.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I found it easier,, instead of grinding swedge/drum and getting mediocre results,, I drill/grind the heads of the stud, and pop it out the front, this doesn't damage the hole....
As stated above,, pound them out without removing swedge,, and you'll be looking to weld the new studs in,, or if they fit and hold enuff to tighten,, think ahead,, at the side of the road, trying to change a flat tire,, ONLY TO HAVE THE STUD SPIN IN THE HOLE... WHATCHA GONNA DO NOW..???
As stated above,, pound them out without removing swedge,, and you'll be looking to weld the new studs in,, or if they fit and hold enuff to tighten,, think ahead,, at the side of the road, trying to change a flat tire,, ONLY TO HAVE THE STUD SPIN IN THE HOLE... WHATCHA GONNA DO NOW..???
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I have seen that exact scenario.
The guy that did it just pounded the old studs out and it trashed the holes and the splined section both.
From then on the only thing that really held the wheel centered was the studs (IF he could get them to tighten up)
I used to tease him about his "sloppy holes".
When that happens, you tack weld the new stud to the hub.... :???:
Been there, done that.... :banghead:
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Me too,, but discovered that unless you torqued the stud in with a nut, before tacking,.., the tacks tend to crack and be of little use..
I'd rather do it right,, save's a nasty phone call, and service call..
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