Timing chain tensioner

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z_daddy said:
Hear it's a bear to put on ?? I didn't think I would need it since I'm going to a double roller
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Very easy to install. They are under tension but locked with a pin to hold it. After it's bolted down you just pull the pin.
 
I am now in the process of building two 340's and have already installed a tensioner on one of my engines. If you have noticed, the original cam plate has "four " bolt holes in it, I went ahead and drilled the forth hole in the new tensioner so I could install that forth bolt. But, before I installed that forth bolt, I had the Machine Shop I use drill a 1/8" hole through that bolt so some oil could seep through it to the chain. I read this idea in an old Mopar Muscle mag. a few years back. Just info. you might like.
 
Here's a shot of the pin:
 

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Zippie#7 said:
I am now in the process of building two 340's and have already installed a tensioner on one of my engines. If you have noticed, the original cam plate has "four " bolt holes in it, I went ahead and drilled the forth hole in the new tensioner so I could install that forth bolt. But, before I installed that forth bolt, I had the Machine Shop I use drill a 1/8" hole through that bolt so some oil could seep through it to the chain. I read this idea in an old Mopar Muscle mag. a few years back. Just info. you might like.
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Only earlier blocks had the 4th bolt hole. Seen many with just 3 bolts. I guess Ma Mopar figured they could save .02 per car using only 3 bolts, LOL
 
From my personal experience on using one with a double roller timing chain. I pulled my timing cover off after about 1200 miles on a new rebuild to swap cams and my tensioner was worn down to half the thickness on the pad, due to the chain cutting into the plastic. I think they are fine on a non roller timing chain, but the roller chains act like a saw on the plastic tensioner pads. I opted to not put it back on while swapping to my solid cam.
 
66plyValiant said:
just use a small allen key
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Good idea

gliderider06 said:
From my personal experience on using one with a double roller timing chain. I pulled my timing cover off after about 1200 miles on a new rebuild to swap cams and my tensioner was worn down to half the thickness on the pad, due to the chain cutting into the plastic. I think they are fine on a non roller timing chain, but the roller chains act like a saw on the plastic tensioner pads. I opted to not put it back on while swapping to my solid cam.
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Hum... When I had the 360 in my car I took it apart to swap cams after about 1000 miles and it was barely even worn at all, it was a summit brand true roller chain. I wonder why the difference? Going to pull the 408 this winter to send out the car to be painted. I think I'll yank the front cover and see what things look like. Have a Hughes Engines chain (made by Rollmaster I think) in it now.
 
fishy68 said:
Right. And save that pin in case you ever need to take it apart. They are a bear to deal with without a pin
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Yer kiddin, right? I just now reinstalled mine on the Hemi after fitting the timing cover. All I did was push it back with my thumb. Did the same thing on my 318. Yall must have some sissy thumbs out there. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yer kiddin, right? I just now reinstalled mine on the Hemi after fitting the timing cover. All I did was push it back with my thumb. Did the same thing on my 318. Yall must have some sissy thumbs out there. lol
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Hey Hey now!!:protest:... LOL... No I wasn't kidding. First time I reused one I had a heck of a time getting it pushed back to get the chain on. The chain was a real tight fit which I believe made it harder.
 
gliderider06 said:
From my personal experience on using one with a double roller timing chain. I pulled my timing cover off after about 1200 miles on a new rebuild to swap cams and my tensioner was worn down to half the thickness on the pad, due to the chain cutting into the plastic. I think they are fine on a non roller timing chain, but the roller chains act like a saw on the plastic tensioner pads. I opted to not put it back on while swapping to my solid cam.
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I had over 5000 miles on mine when I took it a part. No wear at all. I have a Cloyes True Roller on mine. May be different manufacturers of the tensioner.

Fred B
 
340Dart said:
I had over 5000 miles on mine when I took it a part. No wear at all. I have a Cloyes True Roller on mine. May be different manufacturers of the tensioner.

Fred B
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Cloyes makes the tensioner for Mopar. Maybe that's why yours did good.
 
OK now this goff ball commeting,,well hare goes,what the hell did or whow the hell did all those motors run for 100s of 1000s of miles with out all that fancy ****!!!! now I just asking mybe I missed something in all the ones I have put together.DO YOU mean that if I would have yoused one of them there thinks my motors would have RUN faster jump higher and hell it more than likely woulg have made its owen gas!!!!!!!!!! sheeeeeeuw doges!!!!!!!:banghead::banghead: well I say NO:eek:ops:you don't need it......:violent1::violent1: ..........Artie
 
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